Dyno gains with LT headers?
#1
Dyno gains with LT headers?
So what do these things gain with a set of long tubes?
Can you use the factory cats with long tubes?
What's the best brand of long tubes for the V?
Thanks!
Chris
Can you use the factory cats with long tubes?
What's the best brand of long tubes for the V?
Thanks!
Chris
#2
25-30 with a tune.
You can't use the factory cats unless you get REAL creative, but I would go to high-flow or catless anyway.
I don't think there is any proof of whether kooks, B&B, or stainless works is the best.
I've only heard complaints about TPIS headers.
One more thing I forgot - EPP has some of the best prices on kooks headers.
You can't use the factory cats unless you get REAL creative, but I would go to high-flow or catless anyway.
I don't think there is any proof of whether kooks, B&B, or stainless works is the best.
I've only heard complaints about TPIS headers.
One more thing I forgot - EPP has some of the best prices on kooks headers.
#3
#5
25-30 with a tune.
You can't use the factory cats unless you get REAL creative, but I would go to high-flow or catless anyway.
I don't think there is any proof of whether kooks, B&B, or stainless works is the best.
I've only heard complaints about TPIS headers.
One more thing I forgot - EPP has some of the best prices on kooks headers.
You can't use the factory cats unless you get REAL creative, but I would go to high-flow or catless anyway.
I don't think there is any proof of whether kooks, B&B, or stainless works is the best.
I've only heard complaints about TPIS headers.
One more thing I forgot - EPP has some of the best prices on kooks headers.
#6
Headers
+1 on Kooks. Jet Hot 1 7/8" D-ports w/Kooks cats here.
If there are any problems, it is flange sealing with non-OEM gaskets and as with any LTs, not enough heat to the oxygen sensors (coating inside and outside does help some).
Use new GM gaskets and new GM bolts, tighten from the center out, following factory torque ratings and you'll have no problems with leaks.
Using heat barriers on the floorboards/firewall area and especially the wiring harness is also a must, as is wiring-restraints to prevent their contact with header tubing.
If there are any problems, it is flange sealing with non-OEM gaskets and as with any LTs, not enough heat to the oxygen sensors (coating inside and outside does help some).
Use new GM gaskets and new GM bolts, tighten from the center out, following factory torque ratings and you'll have no problems with leaks.
Using heat barriers on the floorboards/firewall area and especially the wiring harness is also a must, as is wiring-restraints to prevent their contact with header tubing.
Last edited by scatillac; 10-07-2008 at 08:16 AM. Reason: Spelling
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#8
b&b/kooks are the way to go...with the edge going to to kooks, IMO.
#9
we shall see, i doubt that a different brand name affects how 1 3/4 tubes of steel funnel exhaust gases ya know? I think the mufflers have a greater part to play in that one. Of course, I could be WAAY off.
#10
-Chris
#11
Primaries:
Kooks: 1 3/4" TPIS: 1 3/4" B&B: unlisted on website, though assumed 1 3/4" Stainless Works: 1 3/4"
Collector diameter:
Kooks: 3" TPIS: 3" B&B: 3" Stainless Works: 3"
Material & coating:
Kooks: steel TPIS: steel (ceramic coated) B&B: stainless steel Stainless Works: stainless steel
So basically, with the exception of S.W. and B&B's production of the headers in shiny stainless (which is supposed to help with exhaust flow) all of the make and materials are the same. Granted cermic coatings eliminate underhood heat, but frankly after seeing how hot it gets in that tiny engine compartment I doubt itll make a hoot of difference. Obviously there will be tube length differences, but nowhere did I read on any of the companies websites that the primaries were eqi-length. So nothing there.
Now Im not here to start a fight, Im merely looking at the numbers. Honestly, I dont think there will be a difference between any of them, possible points (maybe .5 to 1.5 horsepower) to the stainless kits.
#12
Well I understand tuned length headers and a primary collector size make a big difference, but let me break down what Im taking about:
Primaries:
Kooks: 1 3/4" TPIS: 1 3/4" B&B: unlisted on website, though assumed 1 3/4" Stainless Works: 1 3/4"
Collector diameter:
Kooks: 3" TPIS: 3" B&B: 3" Stainless Works: 3"
Material & coating:
Kooks: steel TPIS: steel (ceramic coated) B&B: stainless steel Stainless Works: stainless steel
So basically, with the exception of S.W. and B&B's production of the headers in shiny stainless (which is supposed to help with exhaust flow) all of the make and materials are the same. Granted cermic coatings eliminate underhood heat, but frankly after seeing how hot it gets in that tiny engine compartment I doubt itll make a hoot of difference. Obviously there will be tube length differences, but nowhere did I read on any of the companies websites that the primaries were eqi-length. So nothing there.
Now Im not here to start a fight, Im merely looking at the numbers. Honestly, I dont think there will be a difference between any of them, possible points (maybe .5 to 1.5 horsepower) to the stainless kits.
Primaries:
Kooks: 1 3/4" TPIS: 1 3/4" B&B: unlisted on website, though assumed 1 3/4" Stainless Works: 1 3/4"
Collector diameter:
Kooks: 3" TPIS: 3" B&B: 3" Stainless Works: 3"
Material & coating:
Kooks: steel TPIS: steel (ceramic coated) B&B: stainless steel Stainless Works: stainless steel
So basically, with the exception of S.W. and B&B's production of the headers in shiny stainless (which is supposed to help with exhaust flow) all of the make and materials are the same. Granted cermic coatings eliminate underhood heat, but frankly after seeing how hot it gets in that tiny engine compartment I doubt itll make a hoot of difference. Obviously there will be tube length differences, but nowhere did I read on any of the companies websites that the primaries were eqi-length. So nothing there.
Now Im not here to start a fight, Im merely looking at the numbers. Honestly, I dont think there will be a difference between any of them, possible points (maybe .5 to 1.5 horsepower) to the stainless kits.
I know the Kooks uses a venturi collector, not sure about the others. Also if you take a look at the design of all 4, they primary length appears to be more uniform on the kooks. Again, all the CTS-V headers are pretty nice, there are no 'pacesetter' or e-bay headers in the bunch. Also I believe they are all stainless except the TPiS.
My $0.02,
Chris
#14
It's all good.
I know the Kooks uses a venturi collector, not sure about the others. Also if you take a look at the design of all 4, they primary length appears to be more uniform on the kooks. Again, all the CTS-V headers are pretty nice, there are no 'pacesetter' or e-bay headers in the bunch. Also I believe they are all stainless except the TPiS.
My $0.02,
Chris
I know the Kooks uses a venturi collector, not sure about the others. Also if you take a look at the design of all 4, they primary length appears to be more uniform on the kooks. Again, all the CTS-V headers are pretty nice, there are no 'pacesetter' or e-bay headers in the bunch. Also I believe they are all stainless except the TPiS.
My $0.02,
Chris
(why TPIS? they were 800 bucks with cats, 02 extensions, gaskets, etc and never were removed from the box)