my (the) nivomat lowering solution
02-25-2009, 10:01 PM
#1
my (the) nivomat lowering solution so i learned enough about the rear shocks to know that they want to stay at the length preset by the factory.
removing the factory secondary bump stop will only let you effectively lower the car by the thickness of the stop.. IE what ground control does. the rear end will pump itself back up to the original shock lenght and your drop will be reduced to the spacer thickness (3/4 or so?).
my solution.. relocate the upper shock mount (inboard) by the amount you want to lower the rear.
I am happy to provide the plans for this to any one or company free of charge, of course I would prefer some credit...maybe name it after me.
Basically the new mount is supported by the original mount position, and you use longer bolts and spacers to PERMANENTLY lower the car as much as you want, or at least down until the shock bottoms against the body... as much as 3.5" or so is possible, my rear is over 2" low. I cut about 3/8" off the factory PRIMARY bump stop... it can be removed completely if needed. as seen in either case the dust boot is NOT reused.
the ride is wonderful. good or better than stock. my rear springs are cut 1.5 coils if i recall, but i think significant drop can be had by using only this kit on stock rear springs.. as the shocks hold a significant amount of the rear weight. the shocks are happy. they think the car is at stock ride height so they dont make the ride too stiff or change ride height during use
bigger drops require only more spacers/washers whatever you can find around the house and longer bolts..eventually also needing a shorter rear spring or cutting as i did (1.5 coils shown). i used generic shock bushings from napa, you could use swaybar bushings etc.
For more info email deezuns79@gmail.com
removing the factory secondary bump stop will only let you effectively lower the car by the thickness of the stop.. IE what ground control does. the rear end will pump itself back up to the original shock lenght and your drop will be reduced to the spacer thickness (3/4 or so?).
my solution.. relocate the upper shock mount (inboard) by the amount you want to lower the rear.
I am happy to provide the plans for this to any one or company free of charge, of course I would prefer some credit...maybe name it after me.
Basically the new mount is supported by the original mount position, and you use longer bolts and spacers to PERMANENTLY lower the car as much as you want, or at least down until the shock bottoms against the body... as much as 3.5" or so is possible, my rear is over 2" low. I cut about 3/8" off the factory PRIMARY bump stop... it can be removed completely if needed. as seen in either case the dust boot is NOT reused.
the ride is wonderful. good or better than stock. my rear springs are cut 1.5 coils if i recall, but i think significant drop can be had by using only this kit on stock rear springs.. as the shocks hold a significant amount of the rear weight. the shocks are happy. they think the car is at stock ride height so they dont make the ride too stiff or change ride height during use
bigger drops require only more spacers/washers whatever you can find around the house and longer bolts..eventually also needing a shorter rear spring or cutting as i did (1.5 coils shown). i used generic shock bushings from napa, you could use swaybar bushings etc.
For more info email deezuns79@gmail.com
Last edited by MIGHTYMOUSE; 08-29-2023 at 02:30 PM. Reason: update
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02-26-2009, 04:20 PM
#9
thanks guys, well ive had the stuff in and out a bunch of times, i loaded up these parts in about an hour of constant work, but i was familiar with the terrain in there.
only fancy stuff you need is the plates and the spacers.. bolts and the bushings/washers are and easy find. somebody needs to make the plates for you guys and source a few spacer options, probably include a 1" and a .5" spacer for multiple
configurations
my rear sits at 25 even right now, the front is just under 26. i am goign to cut another maybe 1/3 coil off the fronts tonight. probably need to trim the primary bumpstop up front while i'm in there.
it handles soo good, cutting the stock spring increases the spring rate nicely.
only fancy stuff you need is the plates and the spacers.. bolts and the bushings/washers are and easy find. somebody needs to make the plates for you guys and source a few spacer options, probably include a 1" and a .5" spacer for multiple
configurations
my rear sits at 25 even right now, the front is just under 26. i am goign to cut another maybe 1/3 coil off the fronts tonight. probably need to trim the primary bumpstop up front while i'm in there.
it handles soo good, cutting the stock spring increases the spring rate nicely.
03-07-2009, 12:49 PM
#12
*update*
i pulled the seat out to inspect a noise on the right rear. as suspected the plates had bucked and broken!
JUST KIDDING THE PLATE IS STILL COMPLETELY FLAT!
however the cheap o rubber shock bushing on the drivers side had eaten itself, so i upgraded myself to the poly swaybar endlink bushings that i have been suggesting to everyone else. the file i have been sending everyone is the correct size for these.
while i was in there i swapped from a 1" spacer to a .75" spacer to suit my own personal tastes.
that completes the update.. enjoy!
fwiw i did notice that you COULD if you wanted get another of the lower set of plates cut and stick one or more up top to help strenghthen the upper mount. keep in mind i am using a single 7ga steel plate with no bending at all.
i pulled the seat out to inspect a noise on the right rear. as suspected the plates had bucked and broken!
JUST KIDDING THE PLATE IS STILL COMPLETELY FLAT!
however the cheap o rubber shock bushing on the drivers side had eaten itself, so i upgraded myself to the poly swaybar endlink bushings that i have been suggesting to everyone else. the file i have been sending everyone is the correct size for these.
while i was in there i swapped from a 1" spacer to a .75" spacer to suit my own personal tastes.
that completes the update.. enjoy!
fwiw i did notice that you COULD if you wanted get another of the lower set of plates cut and stick one or more up top to help strenghthen the upper mount. keep in mind i am using a single 7ga steel plate with no bending at all.
03-17-2009, 09:12 PM
#15
MM, I have a few questions.
1)Are you cutting the bottom of the rear coils and the top of the front coils?
2)You just use spring compressors on the fronts, cut, then release them? Are you removing the whole assembly?
3)How are you relieving pressure on the rears to cut them?
The rear coils on my Camaro are cut, and I've been wanting to do the V since I got it lol.
1)Are you cutting the bottom of the rear coils and the top of the front coils?
2)You just use spring compressors on the fronts, cut, then release them? Are you removing the whole assembly?
3)How are you relieving pressure on the rears to cut them?
The rear coils on my Camaro are cut, and I've been wanting to do the V since I got it lol.
03-18-2009, 08:22 PM
#17
Thanks for the info! I can't wait to get started on mine. I had to call 40 places today before I found the 1-3/4" washers mentioned in the other thread. The 1-1/4" were no problem. I've got the wheels/tires off right now with nothing else to do.
12-04-2009, 05:22 PM
#20
if you are interested in doing this feel free to contact me. i can help in a couple ways.
mightym0use@verizon.net
free schematics or if you just want the stuff, lemme know
mightym0use@verizon.net
free schematics or if you just want the stuff, lemme know