Close to buying a V2 M6 Sedan... kind of on the fence
#1
Close to buying a V2 M6 Sedan... kind of on the fence
Alright here goes. Apologies for the long post but $34k is a lot of $$$$. Currently own a 16 Scat Pack Charger. Love it, it’s awesome all around BUT (and a big BUT) it’s an auto. I want a manual. Just finished my LS3 /TKO600 70 Nova and ripping though gears makes me realize how much I miss it.
After searching for awhile I’’m close to pulling the trigger on a gray 2010 sedan 43k miles for $34k. I test drove a stock 2013 M6 sedan today and honestly it felt really tame.
Does an intake, exhaust, and shifter really make a huge difference in these cars?
The stock shifter felt like pulling around a piece of spaghetti. I like mechanical, direct connection to the trans feeing of my TKO (previously had a T56 with a shifter in an 03 Cobra).
Couldn’t hear the blower whine. Previous experience was with 03 Cobra stock and with an intake, both way more noticeable whine.
Exhaust was quiet. The Scat Pack is stock and roars pretty well.
Need some advice here from those more experienced, will this car feel different with a few bolt ons?
Probably won’t flex fuel or pulley/tune for awhile.
thank you!!!
After searching for awhile I’’m close to pulling the trigger on a gray 2010 sedan 43k miles for $34k. I test drove a stock 2013 M6 sedan today and honestly it felt really tame.
Does an intake, exhaust, and shifter really make a huge difference in these cars?
The stock shifter felt like pulling around a piece of spaghetti. I like mechanical, direct connection to the trans feeing of my TKO (previously had a T56 with a shifter in an 03 Cobra).
Couldn’t hear the blower whine. Previous experience was with 03 Cobra stock and with an intake, both way more noticeable whine.
Exhaust was quiet. The Scat Pack is stock and roars pretty well.
Need some advice here from those more experienced, will this car feel different with a few bolt ons?
Probably won’t flex fuel or pulley/tune for awhile.
thank you!!!
#2
10 Second Club
iTrader: (26)
I was in the same boat and will share what I did. I wanted a V2 really bad, but came to the realization that the mileage most of them had vs. the money people were asking for them didn't jive. I wanted something quick and fun and responded well to mods. My Q50 is newer than a V2, with a factory warranty. Stock they make a 300hp and 400hp versions, difference between them is the tune....and they're under rated from the factory as they're dynoing at the wheels what they're rated to at the flywheel. They respond to mods really well. Most bolt ons make 400-450whp and 450-500ftlbs. The AWD versions are monsters on the street hitting 0-60 in the 3's on regular street tires. I went RWD because burnouts are cool. With mods you can be into the car for $10k LESS than the price of your V2. I would sell the Charger and pick up a used 2016+ Q50 as your auto option. Then figure out what you want for a stick car, V1, C5, C6, GTO, SS, WS6, etc. etc.
#3
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ive looked into q50s and 60s but he wants a stick . Not a lot of sedan with a stick options out there . g8gxp but thats going to be around 30k for a a nice one . sell the charger and get the cts v. you can look at bmws ? m5 or m3 of a 535 or 335 with a tune or 340 or 540 ? If you set on the v take your time and try and find a newer one unless that 10 is in really good condition .
#5
Appreciate the input. The Charger has a huge remaining warranty and is honestly a well built car. Fast, loud when I want it to be, the auto burps in sport mode, big burnouts (yes I agree burnout are cool) plenty of room for the kids.... smart guy would say keep the Charger and save the $8k your gonna lose. Might have to do that...
thanks
thanks
#7
Yep. Those are going for a bit more $37-$43k now. I like those too but would be out of my price range. Wanted that supercharger whine as well.
could always get an LSA kit for my nova!
could always get an LSA kit for my nova!
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#8
8 Second Club
iTrader: (13)
I totally understand the urge to get a manual, driving an auto bores me to death no matter how fast it is. If you look around you can find plenty of V2 sedans in the $20's, $34k is a premium price and I agree too much for what it is. However, doesnt make much sense at that price point to get an NA GXP or SS either.
To answer your question yes an intake, upper pulley and tune makes a good difference in V2's for fairly cheap and a world awaits beyond that as far as how much power you want to make. Its worlds easier (and cheaper) to make 600+whp on the V2 vs the MOPAR or the Japanese bucket, literally a lower pulley and injector swap away from having a solid 10 sec car.
To answer your question yes an intake, upper pulley and tune makes a good difference in V2's for fairly cheap and a world awaits beyond that as far as how much power you want to make. Its worlds easier (and cheaper) to make 600+whp on the V2 vs the MOPAR or the Japanese bucket, literally a lower pulley and injector swap away from having a solid 10 sec car.
#9
I think I’m gonna pump the brakes a bit. Try and find a way to go for a ride in a V2 that’s been massaged a little to see if I like it. If so, possibly wait til one pops up for sale that’s had some work done to it already. The car I was gonna buy would need to be shipped to the west coast ($1000) and I’d have to eat that if I didn’t like it (CarMax car, dumb move I know, I got too excited .....).
Another option is find a well sorted out V1.
Until then I can drive the Nova.....
Another option is find a well sorted out V1.
Until then I can drive the Nova.....
#10
Do it
I went from a supercharged 05 V to a stock M6 V2 that was nowhere near as fun to drive.
V1 had Corsa exhaust & hurst shifter & was a torque-filled riot! Just knew it wouldn’t hold together....
V2 is much quieter, even after removing a set of cats & shifter felt sketchy. Improved Steering feel was main reason (along with longevity) I upgraded.
Now with intake, upper pulley, tune & Core shifter it’s a monster. About 150hp more than Maggied V1 & almost 100hp more than stock V2 for around $2k in mods. Can still be driven conservatively without anyone knowing it’s anything other than a stock Caddy that happens to have a manual trans. .
It will burn tires in third & fourth with traction control off & pulls so much harder than stock it’s either hilarious or terrifying.
Shifter feels & sounds just like the hurst in old V1:direct & metallic: it completely transforms driving experience!
Quiet enough not to draw much unwanted attention but non car folk routinely comment that it sounds powerful at idle.
Not it sure how else to get a modern great handling/braking, luxurious, 550+whp manual sedan for mid $30k.
V1 had Corsa exhaust & hurst shifter & was a torque-filled riot! Just knew it wouldn’t hold together....
V2 is much quieter, even after removing a set of cats & shifter felt sketchy. Improved Steering feel was main reason (along with longevity) I upgraded.
Now with intake, upper pulley, tune & Core shifter it’s a monster. About 150hp more than Maggied V1 & almost 100hp more than stock V2 for around $2k in mods. Can still be driven conservatively without anyone knowing it’s anything other than a stock Caddy that happens to have a manual trans. .
It will burn tires in third & fourth with traction control off & pulls so much harder than stock it’s either hilarious or terrifying.
Shifter feels & sounds just like the hurst in old V1:direct & metallic: it completely transforms driving experience!
Quiet enough not to draw much unwanted attention but non car folk routinely comment that it sounds powerful at idle.
Not it sure how else to get a modern great handling/braking, luxurious, 550+whp manual sedan for mid $30k.
#11
That’s exactly the response I was looking for. Yeah I need that connected, mechanical feel along with some grunt. The stock V didn’t give me butterflies after the test drive ( I was smiling uncontrollably after the first time a test drove the Scat Pack). Wish you were close by I’d try to bribe you for a ride.
#13
#14
TECH Addict
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I can tell you a little bit about those cars. I owned one but not a V. 2010 Wagon Performance. BEAUTIFUL car. Bought it with about 24k miles and owned it for 3 years and about 75k miles.
Sunroof. Nightmare. Weatherstrip literally rotted away on a near new garage kept car. Kept popping off when the sunroof was used. Put it back on several times before issuing the order....previously "suggested nicely" by me.....DONT USE THE FNG SUNROOF!!! Drain lines clogged up around it and was never able to clean them properly I guess. Strated leaking water into the headliner. Took it to a car wash....a rare thing for me as I Hand wash.... And Water Poured in from EVERYWHERE drenching my sunroof and my 3 year old daughter. Food for thought. Caddy forums says this is not uncommon. Half of my headliner was wet 100% of the time for last 6 months and started molding badly. Luckily a minor accident totalled the car.
Sharp map pocket on driver door. I read about this in original test articles while researching the car. And thought ahhhhh! What kind of nonsense is that? Not nonsense. The door WILL dig into the side of your leg. So for my hour long commute I carried a small towel that I folded up and put between the door and my leg. I only DD for like 9 months. Drove me crazy.
Speaking of water. Well.....I was disappointed in the sound of the factory Bose system when I took the car over for DD. Apparently I had good reason to be. Before I ever saw anything with the sunroof the car began smelling bad inside. Forums led me to look at my spare tire area, and that is where the half pound sub is located. Fiiiiiiiilled with water. I ended up drilling 3 1/8 holes right through my floor. Terrible but it solved my problem with water and the bass response improved dramatically. I guess subs don't like to be floating in gallons of water for optimal performance.
Tan leather held up terribly. Typical GM ****.
HaD auto connect Bluetooth for phone calls but could not stream through phone. It's technically an older vehicle so some **** that is standard on everything now just won't be there ten years ago.
Taillights started slightly losing curved shape and pulled away from body 1/4 inch.
Never broke down or gave me mechanical issues. Car feels like it is a vault. But it aint big on the inside. Passenger driver seat had to be slid gar forward to fit child seat behind it. Also low with relatively small door openings. Makes getting that 30 lb little monster in and other a chore often times. Replaced it with my 4 door wrangler and she started scrambling up and in her seat on her own with Daddy hovering behind her almost immediately. Now she's a few months past five and can open the door, get in and close it on her own.
I loved and hated that car. I would never own another. Got too spoiled by 6 or 7 new German cars before this one. But the drive train in the V.......
Food for thought. Good luck!
Sunroof. Nightmare. Weatherstrip literally rotted away on a near new garage kept car. Kept popping off when the sunroof was used. Put it back on several times before issuing the order....previously "suggested nicely" by me.....DONT USE THE FNG SUNROOF!!! Drain lines clogged up around it and was never able to clean them properly I guess. Strated leaking water into the headliner. Took it to a car wash....a rare thing for me as I Hand wash.... And Water Poured in from EVERYWHERE drenching my sunroof and my 3 year old daughter. Food for thought. Caddy forums says this is not uncommon. Half of my headliner was wet 100% of the time for last 6 months and started molding badly. Luckily a minor accident totalled the car.
Sharp map pocket on driver door. I read about this in original test articles while researching the car. And thought ahhhhh! What kind of nonsense is that? Not nonsense. The door WILL dig into the side of your leg. So for my hour long commute I carried a small towel that I folded up and put between the door and my leg. I only DD for like 9 months. Drove me crazy.
Speaking of water. Well.....I was disappointed in the sound of the factory Bose system when I took the car over for DD. Apparently I had good reason to be. Before I ever saw anything with the sunroof the car began smelling bad inside. Forums led me to look at my spare tire area, and that is where the half pound sub is located. Fiiiiiiiilled with water. I ended up drilling 3 1/8 holes right through my floor. Terrible but it solved my problem with water and the bass response improved dramatically. I guess subs don't like to be floating in gallons of water for optimal performance.
Tan leather held up terribly. Typical GM ****.
HaD auto connect Bluetooth for phone calls but could not stream through phone. It's technically an older vehicle so some **** that is standard on everything now just won't be there ten years ago.
Taillights started slightly losing curved shape and pulled away from body 1/4 inch.
Never broke down or gave me mechanical issues. Car feels like it is a vault. But it aint big on the inside. Passenger driver seat had to be slid gar forward to fit child seat behind it. Also low with relatively small door openings. Makes getting that 30 lb little monster in and other a chore often times. Replaced it with my 4 door wrangler and she started scrambling up and in her seat on her own with Daddy hovering behind her almost immediately. Now she's a few months past five and can open the door, get in and close it on her own.
I loved and hated that car. I would never own another. Got too spoiled by 6 or 7 new German cars before this one. But the drive train in the V.......
Food for thought. Good luck!
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RallyBoy (02-24-2020)