ZONES89RS

iTrader: (25)

If the accelerator pump is clogged it will lean out severly.

Wide bands work with efi or carb. They just read spent mixture. I get mine off eBay.

RabidStreetRacer

iTrader: (1)

I took apart the accelerator pump assembly and found that the needle just before the discharge port was stuck and not allowing any fuel to flow past. I got it out and cleaned it up. Before I did this my truck would start instantly and now I can't get it started at all, oh what fun this is. I leaned out the idle mixture alot and still I can't seem to get it fired up now.

RabidStreetRacer

iTrader: (1)

After a bunch of research I am leaning towards the power valve possibly being blown. I will pull it apart maybe tomorrow and see. What am I physically looking for to see if it is blown?

ZONES89RS

iTrader: (25)

The diaphragm being ruptured.

If you leaned it too far out it is not getting fuel. Screw the idle mixture set screws all the way in and then back them out 1 and a half turns as a base starting point.

RabidStreetRacer

iTrader: (1)

I've tried that, i can smell the fuel and it makes a mist of fuel when I stop turning it over. I seems to be dumping alot of fuel.

RabidStreetRacer

iTrader: (1)

So I pulled the carb apart and found that the power valve diaphragm was shot. So I replaced that and tried to start it this morning. It still wont start and it has begun to drip fuel from in between the rear engine and trans bellhousing. I cannot find where it is coming from and there is no leaks on the fuel lines, where the heck is it coming from?

RabidStreetRacer

iTrader: (1)

So I had a ton of fuel in the oil. I believe the blown power valve dumped so much fuel after my many attemps to get her started again. So there was alot of fuel in the oil and it sucks that I found this out after it began to leak from the rear. So I am assuming it blew the rear main seal. I drained the oil and put fresh oil in and it started right up. I drove it around the block and it ran better than it ever has. After I pulled in the driveway i had about 1 drop of oil every 5 seconds coming off the rear of the oil pan. I am hoping that is just residual leaking out but am thinking the rear main seal is blown. What do y'all think?

ZONES89RS

iTrader: (25)

Think I would spray the back down with brake cleaner and wipe it down. Then give it a another drive. Forgot to mention the stupidid power valve. I always assume everyone has power valve blow out protection.

RabidStreetRacer

iTrader: (1)

Yeah the power valve was shot, it is still running rich, but better. I have to get the dyno tune soon.

On another note, the truck is in the shop getting the exhaust done. I asked the guy to just dump the exhaust on the passenger side because I don;t have much money to spend. So the guy was like no problem. I just went by the shop and he has gone crazy with it. He wanted it to look great so he has it running true dual and doing dual exit tips before the rear tires on both sides. It looks amazing so far. It will be done tomorrow, I will upload pics.

ZONES89RS

iTrader: (25)

I run a y pipe single exit. No reason for duals if you are not trying to make max power. But of he isn't charging you more, sounds great.

RabidStreetRacer

iTrader: (1)

The best part is that I told him I wanted access to the transmission. He wanted to weld the pipe straight to the headers so it works great. The exhaust is completly out of the way so it will work well.

RabidStreetRacer

iTrader: (1)

Got the exhaust done today, it's getting dark so I will try to get pics tomorrow. It sounds amazing. I finally gave it a half throttle shot at around 30mph and the truck went sideways, it runs like a bat out of hell. Still needs a tune and I am dropping the transmission this weekend to fix the rear main seal. I can't wait for the dyno tune.

ZONES89RS

iTrader: (25)

That's great man. In for pics.

RabidStreetRacer

iTrader: (1)

Sorry for the delay, been working. Here is the exhaust setup, it is a true dual setup and is set up the same on both sides.

RabidStreetRacer

iTrader: (1)

I like the smaller twin exhaust tips like on the Cobra R. I will get those when I get a bit more cash.

RabidStreetRacer

iTrader: (1)

Now on to my oil leak! I need your help to give me an idea on how to solve the problem. When I disassembled the engine, the two long rear oil pan bolt HOLES that are in the rear engine cover were stripped. I HELI coiled them and had no problem reaching 112 ft Lbs of torque when I installed the oil pan. Anyway, the engine has been leaking even when not running from the rear of the oil pan and I thought the rear main seal didn't seat. I pulled off the bottom trans cover today and saw that it is steadily leaking from the oil pan gasket around the two long rear oil pan bolts. I am guessing that because I drilled the holes out bigger and installed the coils, the blue seating ring on the oil pan gasket is not getting pinched between the oil pan and rear timing cover.

So I need some solution ideas besides the obvious and replace the rear cover. I will replace it the next time I remove the transmission. The only idea I can come up with is removing the two bolts and filling the hole up with RTV gasket sealer and then reinstalling the bolts. What do you all think?

ZONES89RS

iTrader: (25)

Did you happen to tighten the rear cover before the oil pan? You are supposed to tighten the pan and then tighten the rear cover. Maybe you have a gap from not following that proceidure.

RabidStreetRacer

iTrader: (1)

Followed it 100% to the book specs

RabidStreetRacer

iTrader: (1)

I got my oil pan off yesterday. The gasket was destroyed. The blue rubber pieces were tore off in multiple places. Not sure how that happened, it was a new gasket and it was installed on the engine while on a stand. I followed the factory specs. How does the rubber tear off in like 5 different places. There was a bunch blue rubber pieced in the oil pan.

baronsmith98

iTrader: (2)

Your build is looking good! I'll be doing a similar swap in my 92 Chevy stepside. Do you have any plans for the rearend?