Does this look right?
That is with the trans bolted to the engine and all the mounts bolted up. That's why it worries me. I can shim between the mount and cross member to pick it up, just don't know how far to go.
I would assume you would want some fall to the rear, however I would also assume you'd want the carb to sit level. Some old Gen 1 SBC intakes have a 3 degree angle cut into the intake where the carb will sit level with the fall.
I'm just confused on this one lol.
That looks a little excessive. I dont know exaclty how far my leans back but I think you would have some driveshaft issue running to the rear with that much tilt?\
Here is some photos of how mine looks if you want to use it for reference.
https://ls1tech.com/forums/texas-mem...upe-build.html
Here is some photos of how mine looks if you want to use it for reference.
https://ls1tech.com/forums/texas-mem...upe-build.html
Cool, I'm on my phone, I'll look when I get near a PC. What did you use for a trans cross member? I'm using the stock Mustang one.
Also, see your near Katy TX, home of my favorite band, King's X
Also, see your near Katy TX, home of my favorite band, King's X
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You want the downward angle of the motor/trans to match the upward angle of the rear diff. Having the angles cancel prevents driveline vibrations in the U joints.
This Link has a bunch of detail explaining why and how.
Having the carb sit level really isn't an issue.
This Link has a bunch of detail explaining why and how.
Having the carb sit level really isn't an issue.
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Level the frame and/or the rocker panel seams. Then use an angle finder across the face of the block, pan rail or the front of the balancer and measure the engine angle. 2 degrees is typically considered ideal, but I have read that many have got away with up to 4 degrees.
My Maverick ended up with a 5° tilt. In order to get it closer to 3°, I'd have had to remove the entire trans tunnel and raise it up a couple inches. I did use an angled "shim" type carb spacer (made for boats) so the carb wasn't off-level so much...
I had a pretty bad angle on mine. Ran with it at 5* tilted back for a few years and just fixed it with a new crossmember a few weeks ago. It's around 3* now. I also adjusted the pinion angle too.
One problem with swaps is that crossmembers are sometimes in the wrong place. Even with the RCM front clip, a truck pan is the only factory pan that comes close to fitting and as shallow as it is in front, it's only got 3/4" clearance to the crossmember. I could have removed the entire trans tunnel and added 3" to it's height, but decided to settle for the 5° tilt. Here's what my "tilt factor" looks like and what the oil pan clearance looked like before the weight settled on the poly mounts.
I don't know much about this, but I thinking as long as the driveline and at the diff is within spec than the motor can sit at whatever degree it is once the adjustments for the driveline are made.
