EZZZE

iTrader: (14)

I have an 88 coupe that I got off of a member here. It currently has a comp custom cam in it with very similar numbers to a tsp 228r cam except on a 114 lsa. I feel that the car is lacking a lot of take off. It does not want to pull until the top of 2nd gear. I want some members with personal experience to chime in and help me pick another cam. I will also be spraying 150, but I want it to stroll on motor. This is a street/ strip car with the following mods:

ly55 5.3 sbe
vic jr
milled 243's w/ .650 springs
Holley 850 dp
long tubes
th350 with 4200 converter
some weight out...car is approximately 2800 lbs
currently running a MT ET street bias ply 26 X 11.5

Any help would be appreciated.

88Fbody6L

iTrader: (5)

That 114lsa isn't helping with a carbed setup. Personally, I would swap cams out for something in the 109-111 lsa range. That engine is kinda small to expect a lot of torque but with that stall and weight it should do fairly well. What gear are you running?

EZZZE

iTrader: (14)

I agree. Too much lsa . I'm running. 4.10s

stevecritt

iTrader: (3)

I had a cam ground from eps. 234/246 110+2 He said with carb you want a bigger spit in duration (10 or more) and usually less than 112 lsa like the above 2 stated.

EZZZE

iTrader: (14)

Thanks stevecritt. How did your car run with that cam?

MoreHP

Have you run the car at the track yet?

EZZZE

iTrader: (14)

Yes. 12.90 on motor with 3.73 gear. Should be low 11

speedtigger

iTrader: (16)

There is something else wrong than the cam.

EZZZE

iTrader: (14)

I agree. Ideas? Converter?

MoreHP

Although not the optimal LSA I wouldn't count it out if all your looking for is mid to low 11's n/a. I would start with dialing in the ignition & the carb first and making sure that convertor is right... I have a slightly heavier car with a smaller engine, a 750 ultra hp carb, 219/233 @ 50 HR .609"/.578" on a 116 LSA +4 and it runs 11.30's @120 with 1.50 60's. The cam is far from what I would normally run in a combo like this however it was a cheap option at the time to get the car back on the street and ultimately out to the track.

If you can do a stall test on a back road to confirm what the true stall rpm is. Flashing it by foot on the brake or in first on a roll is a misleading way to check it as many do. A better method is to roll the car in high gear just above idle then mash it to the floor and see what RPM the convertor hangs at.

This will help determine 2 main things. First that it actually stalls where its rated and secondly that the engine is making enough grunt to help it stall where it supposed to. If its down on power then the convertor will not reach its peak rpm.

Hate to see you waste the time and money to change the cam when it may not be the actual or **main*** problem with your combination. The other 2 places I would concentrate past basic tuning (if it is down on power) is the the valvetrain first and then confirming where your cam is installed at, both easy areas to **** away big power.

MoreHP

Forgot to mention when on the jug that LSA will be just fine.

Figure out the main problem and work from there before throwing anymore money at it.

I ain't cheap but I know I want to at least get my money's worth from what I have first before investing more into it.

EZZZE

iTrader: (14)

We are taking the cover off and checking that the cam is not retarded tomorrow. I will try to stall it the way u described. Its supposed to be a 4200 behind a big block and for nitrous. I don't know as it was in the car when I got it. Thanks for your help

EZZZE

iTrader: (14)

OK. It was a blower cam with 114 + 4 lsa. I am going to get a cam spec'd out for my carb'd setup.

windmill

iTrader: (4)

i knew something had to be wrong,, because i have a bone stock motor in mine. yes stock cam too.

EZZZE

iTrader: (14)

Yeah, I figured either the cam was bad wrong or the converter. I am ordering a cam this week. Just waiting on the recommendation from a sponsor. Then I will run the car asap.

MoreHP

The cam is not helping as I said before but it is definitely not the reason why you are running so poorly. You have bigger issues at hand and the only way I could ever see that cam being the root of the problem would be if it had some missing lobes..lol.

The example above i mentioned is a 2950lb 84 GT with a stock 302 short, a set of TFS highports, a Vic JR WITH A 750 DP and a cam leftover from a blown 331 SBF project hence the split and the 116 LSA. In this carb'd application it pulls 18" of vacuum, further proof its too small however @ 11.30's and 120mph it runs a lot harder then what you have and yours should murder this thing.



A tighter LSA will definitely help with your combo but its not the magic solution... again check what I mentioned and I think you'll find the cause of your problem, staring with that convertor.

EZZZE

iTrader: (14)

Thanks for your help. I'm looking at possibly changing converters too....to a PTC 4k with anti ballooning plates. I will update results