Problem fixed!!!!!! VID ADDED
Well I made the trip, but not my goal. I had traction issues on both passes I made. Yep, only made two passes before they informed me about my trans leak. I didn't want to take a chance of oiling the track down , so I called it quits.
I did learn my combo starts to give up at around 6000 rpms . It will go to 7K but the acceleration starts to fade around 6100. I also learned that making a pass with the windows down can create a small tornado of loose paper, sunglasses, and empty water bottles ,LOL. That can also add a good bit of drag in the aerodynamics department .
My best pass was 12.15 at 112 mph with a 1.8 60 ft. That was the windows down pass. I figured out what was going on by the 1/8th, but at 90+ mph I decided not to roll them up, LOL. The car pulled good and felt fast, an 11 sec pass just wasn't meant to be today with the traction issues, heat and high humidity.
Over all I am proud of the way the car runs. 12.15 in the heat, spinning in a car that is built for turning with all the creature comforts like AC, PS, PB w 3.42 gears and a 2200 rpm converter .
I have to figure out where the trans is leaking and fix that before I make a return trip to find the elusive 11 second pass. I will probably wait till cooler weather too.
I did learn my combo starts to give up at around 6000 rpms . It will go to 7K but the acceleration starts to fade around 6100. I also learned that making a pass with the windows down can create a small tornado of loose paper, sunglasses, and empty water bottles ,LOL. That can also add a good bit of drag in the aerodynamics department .
My best pass was 12.15 at 112 mph with a 1.8 60 ft. That was the windows down pass. I figured out what was going on by the 1/8th, but at 90+ mph I decided not to roll them up, LOL. The car pulled good and felt fast, an 11 sec pass just wasn't meant to be today with the traction issues, heat and high humidity.
Over all I am proud of the way the car runs. 12.15 in the heat, spinning in a car that is built for turning with all the creature comforts like AC, PS, PB w 3.42 gears and a 2200 rpm converter .
I have to figure out where the trans is leaking and fix that before I make a return trip to find the elusive 11 second pass. I will probably wait till cooler weather too.
Thanks. My son took a vid on his camera, but its too small to see exactly what was going on. It looks like the right tire isn't spinning during the burnout, I mean for what the burnout was worth. Its nice having big disc brakes on the back for stopping, but it makes burnouts hard to accomplish. I have to barely touch the brakes to keep the rears from binding and killing the burnout, but when the car starts moving I have a habit of jamming the brakes. I think I may have killed the factory style limited slip. That would explain the traction issue too. I need to install a line lock, but that goes back to the fact that this car wasn't built for drag racing. Im starting to think Im going to need a drag racing intervention . My brain is already starting to snowball into" a looser converter will get me up in the torque curve, a set of 3.73s might help get me through the gears quicker, Ive got room for 2 more inches of tire, etc , etc......"
EDIT.....My son down loaded the vid on youtube for yall to check out. On the larger screen, I can see the right tire is spinning. Im chalking the poor 60s up to poor burnout technique . I should have backed into the water more so the tire could have a chance to get loose. I have always avoided too much water w drag radials because they carry a lot of water to the line.
EDIT.....My son down loaded the vid on youtube for yall to check out. On the larger screen, I can see the right tire is spinning. Im chalking the poor 60s up to poor burnout technique . I should have backed into the water more so the tire could have a chance to get loose. I have always avoided too much water w drag radials because they carry a lot of water to the line.
Last edited by newschool72; Jun 22, 2013 at 09:39 PM.
I figured out my trans/converter was going away as a possible reason for my poor trap speeds. I cant see any other reason why I don't trap in the 115 range and I noticed a fair amount of slip in WOT driving on the way home that day from the track. Ive been in contact with the best 2004R builders in the country and most agreed my trannie was not up to the power level of my engine combo and that my converter is toast.
In a week or so, Lonnie at EA will have a stage 2 2004R and one of his 9.5" converters ready to drop in. SpeedTigger is running low10s on spray with one of Lonnies stage 1 2004rs, so I suspect trans issues will be the last of my problems the next trip to the track. I will be back to the ol 1320 as soon as the trans is broke in properly and the weather cools down.
Im going from a 2100rpm stall to a 2800, and going from a 12" chunk of steel to a 9.5". That is close to 25lbs off the rotating assembly and a jump of 700rpm in stall speed. That and a stout trans that will hold up to the engine, Im confident 11s are very doable .
In a week or so, Lonnie at EA will have a stage 2 2004R and one of his 9.5" converters ready to drop in. SpeedTigger is running low10s on spray with one of Lonnies stage 1 2004rs, so I suspect trans issues will be the last of my problems the next trip to the track. I will be back to the ol 1320 as soon as the trans is broke in properly and the weather cools down.
Im going from a 2100rpm stall to a 2800, and going from a 12" chunk of steel to a 9.5". That is close to 25lbs off the rotating assembly and a jump of 700rpm in stall speed. That and a stout trans that will hold up to the engine, Im confident 11s are very doable .
About 2900.00 for a built trans that will reliably hold 750HP+ a 9.5" converter setup to my specs to my front door. I had considered going to something else, but my car is setup for the 2004R. Shifter, crossmember, driveshaft, electric Hale speedo setup, B&M lockup controller , and hughes conversion flywheel are all setup for a 2004R.
To go to an E trans, I would have had to get a computer to control it and all the supporting stuff , on top of the trans and converter cost. Short of grabbing a junkyard takeout, I couldn't get into an 80E for close to the price I paid for the 2004R. The 2004R has very close gear spacing to the 80E, but has the least parasitic loss of all the overdrive autos. That and the lighter physical weight are the main reasons I did the 2004R in the first place.
If I had gone a different way than the 200, I would have gone with a T56 just because it would be more fun to drive on the street.
To go to an E trans, I would have had to get a computer to control it and all the supporting stuff , on top of the trans and converter cost. Short of grabbing a junkyard takeout, I couldn't get into an 80E for close to the price I paid for the 2004R. The 2004R has very close gear spacing to the 80E, but has the least parasitic loss of all the overdrive autos. That and the lighter physical weight are the main reasons I did the 2004R in the first place.
If I had gone a different way than the 200, I would have gone with a T56 just because it would be more fun to drive on the street.
Thought id give an update on the trans. It is installed and shifting great at part throttle. Im still in the break-in mode but so far so good. The 2800rpm 9.5 converter feels very close to the 12" 2100 stall that was in it before. Just a tick looser right when the throttle is touched from a stop. Im just breaking it in right and biding my time till cooler weather shows up.
Im hoping the 700 extra rpms will help the dead spot in the first 40-50 ft that you can see on the vid above. I hope the converter blow through was my problem with low trap speeds. I guess we will find out on a cool fall day in the near future.
Im hoping the 700 extra rpms will help the dead spot in the first 40-50 ft that you can see on the vid above. I hope the converter blow through was my problem with low trap speeds. I guess we will find out on a cool fall day in the near future.
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