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First time start. Absolutley no OIL PRESSURE

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Old 07-29-2013, 06:46 AM
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Ok. I'll pull the filter. Yeah I got oil in the pan. I was waiting on that question. I appreciate the help. You think I could pour more oil down the sensor hole and try and pressurize it.? How much oil did you pour down the hole?
Old 07-29-2013, 09:24 AM
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If you look up the instruction sheets GM posts online for starting up their new cratemotors they say to disable the ignition and crank it over 10 seconds at a time until it registers oil pressure. Theysay to wait 30 sec between cranks. You may need to do that a half dozen times before it works.

Try it afew more times.

If you want to get a bit more cranking speed try pulling the plugs
Old 07-29-2013, 10:08 AM
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Ok. Thanks. Ill try it at lunch time.
Old 07-29-2013, 11:05 AM
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I primed my new motor with an accusump and then followed GM's directions. And it took quite a few tries at cranking before I saw the needle move. I was somewhat alarmed but all is well now. That long pickup takes a long time to fill. Just for fun I turned the ignition off once and waited for pressure. Still takes a bunch of cranking. That long pickup must drain every time. Doesn't seem to matter.
Old 07-29-2013, 11:53 AM
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When you say along time, how much you think. During lunch I pulled the plugs, filled the oil galley where the sensor goes again with oil and cranked it for 10 seconds and waited for 30 seconds. Done this 5 times and gauge didn't budge. Patience is wearing. Im afraid that I will take the motor out and not find a problem. Is there any way to get the oil to circulate with air pressure?
Old 07-29-2013, 02:43 PM
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I ran my engine ALOT trying to get pressure after i installed it. Everyone said it will prime, just crank it and let it run. I did it several times. I tried craning it over with coils unplugged, nothing. Someone said add more oil and point the front end down hill, tried that, no luck. Ended up, I , like you tried re using the old pump(should have known better). Put a new pump on, but took it apart and packed it with grease and when assembled, it picked up the oil in about 5 seconds. I bet I ran mine a total of 3-5 minutes with no pressure. My oil pressure now is a little higher than I would like. In the burnout box i see a little over 100psi when i hit 2nd gear. It will idle on 65-70psi hot. I would liek to lower mine a little, i am just trying to make you feel better about the bearings. I was very worried. Not saying you cant hurt them, but relax. I would pull the pump back off and pack it with assembly lube of light grease if it was me.
Old 07-29-2013, 03:33 PM
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Ok. Thats kind of my last resort. My problem is there is no assembly lube on the bearings, because I just put a cam in it with rotella and soaked the lifters in oil. I'll pull it back apart tonight I guess. This is only gonna be the third time so I'm getting pretty good at it. So you just pack the oil pump with engine lube? Or what kind of grease?
Old 07-29-2013, 04:04 PM
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I feel for you. Seems to me taking the plugs out is detrimental because you just have to put them back in to run the motor and then the oil will drain back. I assume you know somehow that the end of the pickup is sitting in oil? The grease trick sounds promising provided it d.

Have you looked at a picture of the oil galleys to see if there is somewhere else you see something happening?

Also take a look at this

http://www.hotrod.com/techarticles/e.../photo_06.html

could it be????
Old 07-29-2013, 04:05 PM
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didn't finish that sentence S/B "provided that it doesn't plug something else up"
Old 07-29-2013, 04:11 PM
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I have some trans gel assembly lube here at work, its what I used. Yeah, you just pull the 5 or 6 bolts(cant remember) and pack it full. I changed my oil right after that, so wasnt worried about it being in my oil. Some people use white grease to assemble engines, you could probably use that, just change it after you get it running for a bit. If it primes with the plugs out, then it wont lose its prime when you are re installing them, if it does, you may be sucking air in somewhere. Like possibly the o ring. What pan do you have on it? If its a truck pan, did you put the oil pressure relief valve in?
Old 07-29-2013, 05:00 PM
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Maybe another dumb question, but did you verify the pickup tube is not sitting against the bottom of the oil pan, not allowing any oil to be sucked up?
Old 07-29-2013, 05:11 PM
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Oil pressure relief valve? It has the truck pan. Is the relief valve in the oil pump? If it is, I didnt put anything in it. Just took it out of the box and put the green o ring on the pickup tube.
Old 07-29-2013, 05:14 PM
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Originally Posted by Kylel
Maybe another dumb question, but did you verify the pickup tube is not sitting against the bottom of the oil pan, not allowing any oil to be sucked up?
I dont see how it could be. The pickup tube bolts to the bottom of the windage tray if I remember right. I dont know how I could check it now unless I pulled the motor. But I really dont think thats what it is.
Old 07-29-2013, 05:30 PM
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Originally Posted by ignatz
I feel for you. Seems to me taking the plugs out is detrimental because you just have to put them back in to run the motor and then the oil will drain back. I assume you know somehow that the end of the pickup is sitting in oil? The grease trick sounds promising provided it d.

Have you looked at a picture of the oil galleys to see if there is somewhere else you see something happening?

Also take a look at this

http://www.hotrod.com/techarticles/e.../photo_06.html

could it be????
Honestly I didnt notice, but the block has never had any machine work, so I imagine that the galley plugs are in on both ends of the block.
Old 07-29-2013, 08:26 PM
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Originally Posted by fast89stang
I have some trans gel assembly lube here at work, its what I used. Yeah, you just pull the 5 or 6 bolts(cant remember) and pack it full. I changed my oil right after that, so wasnt worried about it being in my oil. Some people use white grease to assemble engines, you could probably use that, just change it after you get it running for a bit. If it primes with the plugs out, then it wont lose its prime when you are re installing them, if it does, you may be sucking air in somewhere. Like possibly the o ring. What pan do you have on it? If its a truck pan, did you put the oil pressure relief valve in?
Im doing this tomorrow. Gonna use Vaseline. Thanks for the idea. Hope it works.
Old 07-29-2013, 08:26 PM
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I am having the same issue with my turbo build.... getting close to starting it so I cranked it over to make sure the oil was pumping through the feed line to the turbo..... NOTHING, nothing in the oil filter either...

HISTORY.. Car has a TSP 402 stroker.. has 5k miles on it.. was procharged, was downed in November 2012... I swapped oil pan is all that has changed .. atock pan with dran fitting welded in side.... ive cranked it over once for 10 secs and 5 or 6 times for 3 to 4 secs... nothing not even in the filter...

should I fill the filter and then pour oil in the feed line for the turbo at the turbo so it will drain into motor?????? will that prime it??? thanks..

Last edited by Punisher_ws7; 07-29-2013 at 08:47 PM.
Old 07-29-2013, 09:12 PM
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Originally Posted by Punisher_ws7
I am having the same issue with my turbo build.... getting close to starting it so I cranked it over to make sure the oil was pumping through the feed line to the turbo..... NOTHING, nothing in the oil filter either...

HISTORY.. Car has a TSP 402 stroker.. has 5k miles on it.. was procharged, was downed in November 2012... I swapped oil pan is all that has changed .. atock pan with dran fitting welded in side.... ive cranked it over once for 10 secs and 5 or 6 times for 3 to 4 secs... nothing not even in the filter...

should I fill the filter and then pour oil in the feed line for the turbo at the turbo so it will drain into motor?????? will that prime it??? thanks..
I read on a thread earlier, a guy works at a late model speed shop, he wouldnt give the name of the shop but he said when they built their first 2 new motors that they were a huge pain in the *** to prime. After that every new build, they packed the new pumps with Vaseline. Said there was almost instant pressure on the motors after that. He said they got them running and primed and then changed the oil. Im gonna do this tomorrow and I will let you know how it goes. This is my 3rd motor but it is the only one that has been a pain to prime. Sounds like you have a pretty expensive build. Better let me try it first.
Old 07-29-2013, 09:38 PM
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thanks let me know the outcome..
Old 07-29-2013, 10:23 PM
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relief valve screws in the pan, beside the holes for oil feed. Some call it the bypass. If its out it would just be circulating right back insidet he pan. Oil feeds from the pump back to the filter, but if thats not in, it will have no pressure. I would still think youre oil filter would fill up tho.
Old 07-29-2013, 10:42 PM
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Originally Posted by fast89stang
relief valve screws in the pan, beside the holes for oil feed. Some call it the bypass. If its out it would just be circulating right back insidet he pan. Oil feeds from the pump back to the filter, but if thats not in, it will have no pressure. I would still think youre oil filter would fill up tho.
Yeah, I dont think that would be it unless it just came out or something. The only reason I took the pan off was to inspect the crank and make sure there was no metal shavings. Put it right back on. If the Vaseline dosent work, Ill pull it out and check everything that has been mentioned. Im pretty confident its just being a bitch to prime.


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