10.87 @ 127 carbed 370 six speed
12-31-2013, 02:54 PM
#62
this is going to help with the overall package of what i'm doing as this is normally good for 15-20lbs. got a GREAT deal on this s10 manual box. gonna do the astro steering shaft swap too i think.
Last edited by thirdgenbum; 12-31-2013 at 06:55 PM.
01-03-2014, 06:29 AM
#64
Hey guys, i've entered a contest to win some HID retofitted headlights that is won or lost on the amount of "likes" my picture gets. The rules are wide open and we are encouraged to share and link to the picture. Please take a couple seconds and click on the link here and "like" the picture. Thank you very much for your time!
https://www.facebook.com/photo.php?f...type=1&theater
https://www.facebook.com/photo.php?f...type=1&theater
01-17-2014, 09:04 AM
#68
no, all the videos on youtube with an auto are old. i've had several different transmissions in this car so i can answer questions if you need. the original 700r4, a th350, both behind gen1 sbc's. then 4l60e, powerglide, and th400 behind lsx engines. now this t56. if i make another change it'll be to a race inspired manual (gforce, liberty, etc). i'll never go back to auto in this car.
03-16-2014, 11:24 AM
#70
The SpeedMu11et got some love yesterday! started early and got the oil changed out. oil came out fairly clean. Made the switch to amsoil in everything else i own, so this car gets some too.
got it fired up, great oil pressure and i let it run for a minute or two to get things warmed. i pull it up into the driveway and noticed i had a coolant leak...yup, right out of the weep hole. i guess the 15 year old factory water pump didn't like the cold winter...now to figure out if i'm going to just swap out the water pump for another factory one or save my pennies for an electric pump.
of course today wasn't just an oil change day...that's not really worth making a post about. but installing THIS guy is:
with launch speeds increasing, and et's dropping, i am well passed needing this bellhousing as NHRA/IHRA rules mandate it at 11.49. It's a heavy mother too. 30lbs compared to 9lbs of the factory cast housing.
Of course the block saver plate has to fit flush against the back of the motor, otherwise the flywheel will rub it, and generally push things out of alignment. i knew that there may be some interference issues with the oil pan, and there was infact interference. the area under the rear main seal where the oil pan meets the rear cover needs to be ground down to clear the plate. What i didn't anticipate was that the rear cover bolts hit it! grrrr. figuring out a mod to the plate that wouldn't decrease integrity of the plate took some time. at first i started to grind down the bolt heads. i quickly realized that was going to take a very long time and abandoned the idea. next i hit the back of the plate with some spray paint and placed it onto the motor and smacked it with my hand some so the bolt heads would mark the paint. of course i'd already had ground the heads down a little bit so only a couple of the bolts transfered to the paint. i ended up finding another cover to get the bolt pattern and transfered it to the plate. as my luck would have it, i didn't center every bolt hole and ended up having to open up or elongate most of the bolt holes. here's the end result of that debacle.
I'd never indexed a bellhousing before and it took a little bit of playing with before i felt comfortable with the accuracy of the readings from the dial indicator. once i got the indicator setup, i found that the housing was offset to the driver's side of the crank centerline about .030", or about .015" off center. i had some .014" offset dowels already ordered and was able to get it straight. the dowel removal was a pain all in it's own. i tried vicegrips to pull them out at first and quickly discovered that wasn't going to work. i was able to get the driver's side out with a center punch and a hammer from the front side driving it backwards. the passenger's side was a different story though. i had to pull the header off to gain access. then i got in there with an alignment punch was able to push it out.
while this was all out, i also swapped the pilot bearing to a solid pilot bushing. i've read they're a bit more forgiving in the event that the bellhousing isn't quite indexed right. this resulted in a broken pilot bushing removal tool that i rented from autozone...guess i won't be getting my deposit back, lol.
whew...all installed and in the home stretch, right?
wrong...
the new bellhousing and block saver plate are approximately .050" thicker in overall stacked height than my factory one. i took this into account and ordered shims for my slave in the event that i had an issue. the measurement here is taken from the fingers of the clutch diaphragm to a straight edge across the transmission mounting surface of the bellhousing. you then compare it to the compressed height of the slave in relation to the front mounting surface on the front cover of the trans. this measurement differential is supposed to be .090"-.200" depending on where you read or who you believe. mine with no shims was right at .090". which means that it was less than spec with the factory stuff. this is good, i can resell or inventory the shims i bought, lol.
what's bad though is that i have a custom driveshaft that is really a bit too long to begin with. i mean, it's an EXTREMELY tight fit. to the point where pulling the driveshaft is a real pain in the butt. i have to pull the ujoint caps off to get enough clearance to get the shaft out. well...with this increased stack height, my transmission was moved just enough to now be a problem and now i have to have the driveshaft shortened. we had a stock driveshaft laying around. interestingly enough, the factory 3R u-joint was a near direct bolt in to the 1350 yoke, and was good enough to drive it out of the driveway and onto the trailer.
after all this opposition, i get into the car and hit the button to move the car and have no starter. i had managed to pinch the wire going to the starter solenoid and my guess was it fried the relay. i swapped out the relay and nothing. i had power in, ground, and even switched power from the button, and still no action. i jumped across the relay to get the car started and put it on the trailer. electrical gremlins be damned, i'll look at that next weekend when we are rewiring my switch panel. ugh.
got it fired up, great oil pressure and i let it run for a minute or two to get things warmed. i pull it up into the driveway and noticed i had a coolant leak...yup, right out of the weep hole. i guess the 15 year old factory water pump didn't like the cold winter...now to figure out if i'm going to just swap out the water pump for another factory one or save my pennies for an electric pump.
of course today wasn't just an oil change day...that's not really worth making a post about. but installing THIS guy is:
with launch speeds increasing, and et's dropping, i am well passed needing this bellhousing as NHRA/IHRA rules mandate it at 11.49. It's a heavy mother too. 30lbs compared to 9lbs of the factory cast housing.
Of course the block saver plate has to fit flush against the back of the motor, otherwise the flywheel will rub it, and generally push things out of alignment. i knew that there may be some interference issues with the oil pan, and there was infact interference. the area under the rear main seal where the oil pan meets the rear cover needs to be ground down to clear the plate. What i didn't anticipate was that the rear cover bolts hit it! grrrr. figuring out a mod to the plate that wouldn't decrease integrity of the plate took some time. at first i started to grind down the bolt heads. i quickly realized that was going to take a very long time and abandoned the idea. next i hit the back of the plate with some spray paint and placed it onto the motor and smacked it with my hand some so the bolt heads would mark the paint. of course i'd already had ground the heads down a little bit so only a couple of the bolts transfered to the paint. i ended up finding another cover to get the bolt pattern and transfered it to the plate. as my luck would have it, i didn't center every bolt hole and ended up having to open up or elongate most of the bolt holes. here's the end result of that debacle.
I'd never indexed a bellhousing before and it took a little bit of playing with before i felt comfortable with the accuracy of the readings from the dial indicator. once i got the indicator setup, i found that the housing was offset to the driver's side of the crank centerline about .030", or about .015" off center. i had some .014" offset dowels already ordered and was able to get it straight. the dowel removal was a pain all in it's own. i tried vicegrips to pull them out at first and quickly discovered that wasn't going to work. i was able to get the driver's side out with a center punch and a hammer from the front side driving it backwards. the passenger's side was a different story though. i had to pull the header off to gain access. then i got in there with an alignment punch was able to push it out.
while this was all out, i also swapped the pilot bearing to a solid pilot bushing. i've read they're a bit more forgiving in the event that the bellhousing isn't quite indexed right. this resulted in a broken pilot bushing removal tool that i rented from autozone...guess i won't be getting my deposit back, lol.
whew...all installed and in the home stretch, right?
wrong...
the new bellhousing and block saver plate are approximately .050" thicker in overall stacked height than my factory one. i took this into account and ordered shims for my slave in the event that i had an issue. the measurement here is taken from the fingers of the clutch diaphragm to a straight edge across the transmission mounting surface of the bellhousing. you then compare it to the compressed height of the slave in relation to the front mounting surface on the front cover of the trans. this measurement differential is supposed to be .090"-.200" depending on where you read or who you believe. mine with no shims was right at .090". which means that it was less than spec with the factory stuff. this is good, i can resell or inventory the shims i bought, lol.
what's bad though is that i have a custom driveshaft that is really a bit too long to begin with. i mean, it's an EXTREMELY tight fit. to the point where pulling the driveshaft is a real pain in the butt. i have to pull the ujoint caps off to get enough clearance to get the shaft out. well...with this increased stack height, my transmission was moved just enough to now be a problem and now i have to have the driveshaft shortened. we had a stock driveshaft laying around. interestingly enough, the factory 3R u-joint was a near direct bolt in to the 1350 yoke, and was good enough to drive it out of the driveway and onto the trailer.
after all this opposition, i get into the car and hit the button to move the car and have no starter. i had managed to pinch the wire going to the starter solenoid and my guess was it fried the relay. i swapped out the relay and nothing. i had power in, ground, and even switched power from the button, and still no action. i jumped across the relay to get the car started and put it on the trailer. electrical gremlins be damned, i'll look at that next weekend when we are rewiring my switch panel. ugh.
03-16-2014, 01:22 PM
#72
Good deal Matt, looks like you are making sure you won't hurt a body part or much of the car should a clutch let go.
When I had my buddy under the s10 wire up the alternator, he didn't notice the lug for the battery that has a locator was touching the activation point of the solenoid. Went to hook the battery up and instant start. Lol. No biggie.
Keep up the hard work, the warming weather was just good enough for me to finish my s10 swap for this weekends events and it was worth it.
When I had my buddy under the s10 wire up the alternator, he didn't notice the lug for the battery that has a locator was touching the activation point of the solenoid. Went to hook the battery up and instant start. Lol. No biggie.
Keep up the hard work, the warming weather was just good enough for me to finish my s10 swap for this weekends events and it was worth it.
03-18-2014, 08:47 PM
#73
yeah, this bellhousing was an unfortunate necessary evil. it's heavy and it was very expensive, but being safe is a big concern of mine and now it's bought so i'm good to go.
a fellow ls-thirdgenner is hooking me up with a low mileage water pump for $35 shipped, so i'm pretty excited that i won't have a leaking pump anymore. As for the no-start condition, who knows what that is all about, but it gives me reason to go ahead and rewire all the stuff i have going on in the car. i built a nifty little fuse/relay center that hides under the passenger airbag cover of my 4th gen dash. I've been needing to redo the wiring too it for a while now though cause it's been added to a lot and is generally messy as hell. if i have any electrical gremlins like i'm experiencing now, it's a nightmare to get straight. i'll take a little time over the next couple of weeks to get it right. hope to hop on that this weekend.
a fellow ls-thirdgenner is hooking me up with a low mileage water pump for $35 shipped, so i'm pretty excited that i won't have a leaking pump anymore. As for the no-start condition, who knows what that is all about, but it gives me reason to go ahead and rewire all the stuff i have going on in the car. i built a nifty little fuse/relay center that hides under the passenger airbag cover of my 4th gen dash. I've been needing to redo the wiring too it for a while now though cause it's been added to a lot and is generally messy as hell. if i have any electrical gremlins like i'm experiencing now, it's a nightmare to get straight. i'll take a little time over the next couple of weeks to get it right. hope to hop on that this weekend.
03-19-2014, 03:40 AM
#74
On the RS, when I would go back and rewire an issue, I had the car so long I had the "why the F did I do it like that" moments. Interesting to see how I evolve over time. The mustang has been the best wiring job. From scratch. Expensive buying all those different colors so everything isnt red and black. Lol
