Dam man I feel for ya. Hope everything works out.

 

I tried moving my 1000 cranking amp interstate battery to the front and running short cables it still didn't start.

So I bought one of these and a 16volt charger/maintainer.

http://rockracingbattery.com/product...5&cat=3&page=1

It has a 16 volt post, a 12 volt post and a ground. I am running the 16volt straight to the STOCK starter. I am using the 12 volt post to run everything else as its supposed to be.

Cranks up every time now. Even snap starts quickly some times. Something it would never do with 12 volts.
I plan to swap the alternator to a 16volt as I do street drive the car and am very happy I can finally turn the key and go now.

 

Good to hear you at least have a solution, even if its going to cost you

 

Great deal man!!! Glad to hear you got it. There is nothing worse than dealing with some temperamental crap like that. Seems quite strange that some of the systems do that and some don't. We are running the 6012 box, and i don't think our motor makes two complete revolutions and its running. Even when hot. And have forgot to turn the battery charger on and it started with 10.5 Volts a few times. That is some strange crap.

 

I don't think the 58 tooth wheel and 6012 boxes have this problem. Mine is 6010 24 tooth wheel.

 

I've read so many threads about people having problems with the 6010 boxes its unbelievable. There should be a sticky Warning on what has to be done if you use a 24 tooth reluctor and a 6010. Glad i never have. I had a few friends that told me when I started building these LS motors, to use the 58 tooth reluctor. Was told with more teeth the trigger signal would be cleaner. Always thought it was a performance issue. Never thought it would be a major starting issue. If there was a warning. Its nothing to change the reluctor and get a cover with the hole for the cps, and the right cam gear. It would be real nice to know if you were just starting your build.

 

That's some weird ****. Will need to bookmark this thread for when the next guy comes in with the same problem.

Lots of guys with 24T LS1's don't have this issue.

 

How much compression are you running? If this just a problem on high compression engines due to the increased force it takes to rotate them?

 

It was mentioned that it wouldn't even spark with the plugs out, so that shouldn't apply. But no **** it is only isolated incidents? WTF

 

LOL. I Know what you are getting at, but that is pretty funny.

With that said, the threads I read on this on The Bullet, guys said they did get spark when they pulled the plugs as they got the RPMs high enough for the MSD to work.

 

I'm curious to see if its only a certain brand, of after market cranks or cams. Seems like everyone that has this problem checks all the wiring. So that shouldn't be it. And have sent their boxes back and they are fine. Try them in other peoples rides and they work. Does anyone with a stock crank or cam have this problem, or is it only after market stuff?

 

Lol Holey crap Duh. I ment to say there was still no spark. That was pretty funny.