Carb'd street/strip - what oil you guys use?
11-19-2014, 04:21 PM
#23
Staging Lane
Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: North Carolina
Posts: 62
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I use the ZZDDP cuz the Magnum 280H is a flat tappet cam (in my car)....I have a built 355sbc in my car....prolly shoulda been more clear aboout that....and didnt know that about Castrol....it said full synthetic....well i only have 650 miles on this engine....I will be switching to mobil 1.....thanks for the heads up...
11-19-2014, 08:31 PM
#25
Staging Lane
Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: North Carolina
Posts: 62
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Good stuff!!! so is Castol jus a syn blend...how can they advertise full synthetic like that.....im def gonna spread that word.....I have a while till its due for an oil change....but I will def run the Mobil 1....since next up is a 150shot wet kit.....
11-19-2014, 08:46 PM
#26
i recommend getting acquainted with your oils by looking through this website, which is about the largest independent tester of oils there is. you'll find that amsoil is a cut above....basically everything 
http://www.pqiamerica.com/
additionally, "synthetic" oils are all blends, even mobil1 (which you may find is pretty inferior when you start looking at test results btw). there is a specific percentage of synthetic base that an oil must have in order to be considered a "full synthetic", but it isn't 100%
anyway, i'm using the dominator oil which has a bunch of zinc already in it. once you buy the preferred pricing it's actually cheaper than the shelf available oils
http://www.pqiamerica.com/
additionally, "synthetic" oils are all blends, even mobil1 (which you may find is pretty inferior when you start looking at test results btw). there is a specific percentage of synthetic base that an oil must have in order to be considered a "full synthetic", but it isn't 100%
anyway, i'm using the dominator oil which has a bunch of zinc already in it. once you buy the preferred pricing it's actually cheaper than the shelf available oils
11-19-2014, 08:48 PM
#27
Zinc has anti wear properties that is good for your engine. If you have stiff springs, a higher lift cam and stock rockers... I think you should definitely use a zinc additive. Or a zinc enriched oil.
Last edited by The stunningman; 11-19-2014 at 08:54 PM.
11-19-2014, 09:05 PM
#28
You don't actually want a high to 100% synthetic, that is from speaking to a guy that was devolving oil back when that was coming up in the world. And I will say, vipers, vettes and everything else under the sun that requires Mobil 1 synthetic is surely not for no good reason. But I will check out the site you mentioned Matt. I have seen mobile 1 personally not allow rings to seat in a new engine so it is doing it's job in some way. Break in oil is there for a reason. Lol
11-19-2014, 09:24 PM
#29
Staging Lane
Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: North Carolina
Posts: 62
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
i recommend getting acquainted with your oils by looking through this website, which is about the largest independent tester of oils there is. you'll find that amsoil is a cut above....basically everything
http://www.pqiamerica.com/
additionally, "synthetic" oils are all blends, even mobil1 (which you may find is pretty inferior when you start looking at test results btw). there is a specific percentage of synthetic base that an oil must have in order to be considered a "full synthetic", but it isn't 100%
anyway, i'm using the dominator oil which has a bunch of zinc already in it. once you buy the preferred pricing it's actually cheaper than the shelf available oils
http://www.pqiamerica.com/
additionally, "synthetic" oils are all blends, even mobil1 (which you may find is pretty inferior when you start looking at test results btw). there is a specific percentage of synthetic base that an oil must have in order to be considered a "full synthetic", but it isn't 100%
anyway, i'm using the dominator oil which has a bunch of zinc already in it. once you buy the preferred pricing it's actually cheaper than the shelf available oils
You don't actually want a high to 100% synthetic, that is from speaking to a guy that was devolving oil back when that was coming up in the world. And I will say, vipers, vettes and everything else under the sun that requires Mobil 1 synthetic is surely not for no good reason. But I will check out the site you mentioned Matt. I have seen mobile 1 personally not allow rings to seat in a new engine so it is doing it's job in some way. Break in oil is there for a reason. Lol
11-20-2014, 02:50 PM
#32
And my trex cam has been doing pretty well on it's second engine, but in ready for a custom grind.
11-20-2014, 04:01 PM
#33
Some people here have been having camshaft wear problems. A lot of knowledgeable people have recommended the use of zinc additive as a preventative measure. Some have had valve tip wear problems. When you get into serious springs that hit over 400 + lbs. open with stock rockers. You can have scrub between the rocker tip and the valve tip not unlike the scrub that flat tappets had on the camshafts. Yes the spinning motion of the lifter helped but the zinc helped a lot also. Look at what happened when they pulled the zinc out.
11-20-2014, 08:15 PM
#34
TECH Enthusiast
in my opinion valve tip wear or cam lobe wear points to too much valve spring. people running doubles where a single will suffice. i'd prefer to run a fraction softer spring than heavier. ls motors seem to like a light valve train, shown by people having great success with just a trunion upgrade and ls7 lifters.
i'm with zones, as long as there is good oil pressure, beat it from the get go.
people will always differ, oils and sparkplugs, guarenteed to have wide ranging views
i'm with zones, as long as there is good oil pressure, beat it from the get go.
people will always differ, oils and sparkplugs, guarenteed to have wide ranging views
11-21-2014, 03:46 AM
#36
TECH Enthusiast
iTrader: (12)
Join Date: Aug 2007
Location: Rutland, MA
Posts: 590
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
While we are on valve train wear. Has anyone run into pushrod wear in these engines? I have had several engines where I saw significant wear on the end of the pushrod and in the rocker arm cup. These were all with stock pushrods and rockers. Never with hardened PR's after I did cam, spring, PR and replace rockers though.