new best!
Indeed. 
11-22-2014, 06:24 PM
#26
video. 5 passes, all have slow motion of the launch right after the pass. i can see we need to do some work still. need to tighten up compression for sure. maybe a longer torque arm?
1990 Camaro SpeedMullet getting down at the fall 2014 Mullet Militia meet - YouTube
1990 Camaro SpeedMullet getting down at the fall 2014 Mullet Militia meet - YouTube
What does that thing weigh now?
Yes, this latest effort puts you at the top of the list if I have your weight right at 3260, although with an asterisk because of the -1500 D/A, but still.
Last edited by speedtigger; 11-22-2014 at 06:38 PM.
11-22-2014, 08:37 PM
#29
ha! so far i have pulled 65lbs out of the driver's seat since january. got another 25 to go before i'm fully satisfied. getting serious about getting the car down the track as quickly as i can means every detail must be looked at twice or three times. i'm not looking forward to the added weight of more bars in the car. i only have a 5 pt bar at the moment. a 10 pt cage will be necessary soon.
11-22-2014, 08:53 PM
#30
Try those suspension and tire pressure recommendations. I would go full tight on the rear compression first, then start increasing tire pressure 1 pound at a time, then start playing with the extension on the front by tightening. I feel pretty confident it will make a nice difference on the launch.
11-22-2014, 09:06 PM
#31
my front struts are not adjustable 
the double adjustable struts worth a damn for these cars are pricey....i intend to spend a good bit of time measuring and mapping IC and center of gravity. looks like scaling the car wouldn't be a bad idea either.
i MUST buy new back brakes, axles, and spool this winter. that's going to eat up a large amount of my winter budget. these things must be addressed if i intend to race at all next season. among other things planned are manual brakes and proper front brakes to match the required rears. not sure i can justify the front struts. i wish viking would release some for my car as they are really well priced.
the double adjustable struts worth a damn for these cars are pricey....i intend to spend a good bit of time measuring and mapping IC and center of gravity. looks like scaling the car wouldn't be a bad idea either. i MUST buy new back brakes, axles, and spool this winter. that's going to eat up a large amount of my winter budget. these things must be addressed if i intend to race at all next season. among other things planned are manual brakes and proper front brakes to match the required rears. not sure i can justify the front struts. i wish viking would release some for my car as they are really well priced.
Last edited by thirdgenbum; 11-22-2014 at 10:05 PM.
11-23-2014, 05:13 AM
#34
I agree, very nice!!!!
11-23-2014, 05:59 AM
#35
Speeds right though. You get that little hop and the little wheel spin out of it and there is no telling how much you could get. Ever try any Hoosiers? What all do you have taken out of the front weight wise? Sorry, prolly already read it but too many to remember. Looks like it's unloading on the hit. Like the front might be a little heavy, or if you already got her all lightened up then like you already sad, you could change the center. The adjustable shocks are definitely the way to go but they will only add to what you already have. Great job man you are very close. Can't wait to see how far you can take it.
11-23-2014, 07:13 AM
#36
i have run hoosiers in the past. they were not as repeatable as what i have now honestly. and M/T takes good care of me, i have no reason to make a move there.
a lot of what i have going on in the video i think can be corrected with tightening up rear suspension compression. if you look at how the car reacts, watch where the car starts to falter. it actually continues to try to weight transfer after the axle has already begun to rebound into the wheel well. imagine what the car would do if the compression was tightened way up and was allowed to fully weight transfer. i do have double adjustables in the rear.
front end is pretty light. it has s10 manual box, chromoly tubular k-member and a-arms with coil overs, all from pa racing. front crash bar is gone, no hvac to speak of, etc.
i was thinking i could pull another 20+ off the front by going to a smaller radiator and a single fan as well.
a lot of what i have going on in the video i think can be corrected with tightening up rear suspension compression. if you look at how the car reacts, watch where the car starts to falter. it actually continues to try to weight transfer after the axle has already begun to rebound into the wheel well. imagine what the car would do if the compression was tightened way up and was allowed to fully weight transfer. i do have double adjustables in the rear.
front end is pretty light. it has s10 manual box, chromoly tubular k-member and a-arms with coil overs, all from pa racing. front crash bar is gone, no hvac to speak of, etc.
i was thinking i could pull another 20+ off the front by going to a smaller radiator and a single fan as well.
11-23-2014, 07:35 AM
#37
No doubt Matt You can see the rear tire do the "basketball bounce" just after the hit. That is when the rear end unloads and the wheel spin starts.
Full tight compression will help keep the weight on the rear tires. If full tight compression is not enough, more tire pressure will reduce the basketball effect more. Once it "gets up on the tire", it will stay hooked. Then Matt will get the astronauts view. LOL
Full tight compression will help keep the weight on the rear tires. If full tight compression is not enough, more tire pressure will reduce the basketball effect more. Once it "gets up on the tire", it will stay hooked. Then Matt will get the astronauts view. LOL
11-23-2014, 08:23 AM
#38
Lol. Might have to get some SYA bars from Madman.
