Help with ignition on 5.3 6010 msd
#1
Help with ignition on 5.3 6010 msd
I have a 5.3 with just a mild cam trying to get it started but it seems like the msd 6010 does not want to start it I've plugged it into my laptop theirs no cranking signal going on at all I've tryed everything called the folks at msd and I got the whole check grounds speech Its been about a month now and I've checked everything I'm getting pretty fustrated now and wondering if theirs any other ignition box out their that's better than the 6010? They seem to have alot of problems from what I've read on msds forums. Any advice would be appreciated
#3
I went through a lot of crap to get my 6010 converted when I went to a front cam sensor motor. Lots of gobbledgook from MSD. Finally fixed it myself with help from this forum and friends.
I recommend the Daytona deal.
I recommend the Daytona deal.
#4
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I have a 5.3 with just a mild cam trying to get it started but it seems like the msd 6010 does not want to start it I've plugged it into my laptop theirs no cranking signal going on at all I've tryed everything called the folks at msd and I got the whole check grounds speech Its been about a month now and I've checked everything I'm getting pretty fustrated now and wondering if theirs any other ignition box out their that's better than the 6010? They seem to have alot of problems from what I've read on msds forums. Any advice would be appreciated
#6
Hey make sure your paying attention to the laptop when you crank it. Is it showing rpm? is it losing connection to the MSD box when you crank it? If this type of thing is happening you maybe going under voltage on the box and its shutting off, ask me how I know/
#7
All the connections are tight when I'm cranking the only thing the laptop is showing is that it is getting 10 volts and that's with a fresh battery and a big booster pack hooked up I also got a brand new crank and cam sensor which seems to be a pointless purchase
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#8
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Is the battery remote mounted?
#10
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#11
Try running a lead directly to the MSD box I had mine hooked up on a switch and it dropped voltage just enough through the circuit it would turn off when a load was put on the battery during cranking. watch the product connected window on the msd software. I will bet when you hit the key it loses signal and doesn't show rpm when you crank
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If it picks up rpm with no plugs you need to find a way to get your starter turning faster with the plugs in it or buy a smart spark with no minimum crank rpm. First thing I would do is check you voltage drop at the starter. If it is showing 10 on the laptop I would guess it is like 7 at the starter. If that is the case run a heavier gauge ground and power we usually use 1/0.
#14
If it picks up rpm with no plugs you need to find a way to get your starter turning faster with the plugs in it or buy a smart spark with no minimum crank rpm. First thing I would do is check you voltage drop at the starter. If it is showing 10 on the laptop I would guess it is like 7 at the starter. If that is the case run a heavier gauge ground and power we usually use 1/0.
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Great let me know if you need any more help, and we are a daytona sensors dealer and have them in stock.
#16
Looks like Redline is taking care of you. Good to see a vendor ready to help instead of making a quick sale.
The MSD 6010 boxes are know to have trouble with crank signals on some cars. Not sure why that is. The recommendation to spin it faster is a good one. Some guys have gone to 16V batteries for the initial start. What is weird once you get it to fire it seems to work normally after that.
10 volts at the box may not be enough. Make absolutely certain you aren't trying to power it off the old coil wire. Wire it straight to the fuse box, preferably through a relay. I would try powering it off a separate battery or 12 V wall charger for the initial start. Make sure to ground it properly.
Don't feel bad about the new crank and cam sensor. You're not the first one to try that.
The MSD box isn't a bad unit. I've run a 6012 box (58x reluctor) for over 8 years with zero issues. Most guys have similar luck. But damn, too many stories like yours with the 6010 unit. MSD has some quality control issues.
The MSD 6010 boxes are know to have trouble with crank signals on some cars. Not sure why that is. The recommendation to spin it faster is a good one. Some guys have gone to 16V batteries for the initial start. What is weird once you get it to fire it seems to work normally after that.
10 volts at the box may not be enough. Make absolutely certain you aren't trying to power it off the old coil wire. Wire it straight to the fuse box, preferably through a relay. I would try powering it off a separate battery or 12 V wall charger for the initial start. Make sure to ground it properly.
Don't feel bad about the new crank and cam sensor. You're not the first one to try that.
The MSD box isn't a bad unit. I've run a 6012 box (58x reluctor) for over 8 years with zero issues. Most guys have similar luck. But damn, too many stories like yours with the 6010 unit. MSD has some quality control issues.
#17
If that ignition box is showing 10 volts even with the charger hooked to it. Then there is your problem. With the charger hooked up you should be showing probably 14 plus volts. Sounds like you have a high resistance connection or mild short somewhere that is causing your voltage drop. Ground and positive go to battery only.
#18
Sometimes a starter will seam fine, but it is actually pulling way more amps then it is supposed to. This can also cause major voltage drop. Easy way to check would be to try two batteries. One for the starter and one for the ignition.
#19
[QUOTE=Redline Performance;18930684]Great let me know if you need any more help, and we are a daytona sensors dealer and have them in
So finally got some free time today and I took the plugs out and ran it to the laptop I got 165 rpm and that's with a battery charged to 12.8v when cranking it dropped to 10v.
If it's catching 165 rpm with the plugs out I could imagine the reading when the plugs are in would be minimal.
So finally got some free time today and I took the plugs out and ran it to the laptop I got 165 rpm and that's with a battery charged to 12.8v when cranking it dropped to 10v.
If it's catching 165 rpm with the plugs out I could imagine the reading when the plugs are in would be minimal.