Holley sniper efi
#21
#25
IMO it depends on your goals. If you are wanting to make a lot of power using a traditional intake would probably be better instead of spending a crap load on a FAST/MSD intake.
If you are wanting to keep a "stock" look the carb intake is going to be the best bet. Some people just don't like the way plastic intakes look.
With a wet intake/carb you have the benefit of cooler IAT's, which may or may not be important to you.
To use the Terminator X, you would have to use a carb style intake w/ MPFI and then buy a throttle body. (I haven't installed a Terminator X yet so I'm not sure you can actually configure it that way)
If you want a carb style intake I think the Sniper and MSD timing control would be a cheaper than the Terminator T/B setup.
Again these are just my opinions and several things need to be taken into consideration.
If you are wanting to keep a "stock" look the carb intake is going to be the best bet. Some people just don't like the way plastic intakes look.
With a wet intake/carb you have the benefit of cooler IAT's, which may or may not be important to you.
To use the Terminator X, you would have to use a carb style intake w/ MPFI and then buy a throttle body. (I haven't installed a Terminator X yet so I'm not sure you can actually configure it that way)
If you want a carb style intake I think the Sniper and MSD timing control would be a cheaper than the Terminator T/B setup.
Again these are just my opinions and several things need to be taken into consideration.
The following 2 users liked this post by LilJayV10:
0352Marine (07-03-2019), Packmanrod (01-07-2020)
#26
I’m sorry if I offended anybody on this site and I now realize you are referring to the terminator x. I wasn’t trying to offend anyone buy using the word ignorant but just simply stated your not familiar in my opinion and my previous experience in this subject if you have experienced this first hand like I have. The terminator x just reinforces my point even more so. With the terminator x purchase for $1,000 your just purchasing a ECM and harness. No type of induction hardware I.E. intake, throttle body or for that matter injectors, MAF, MAP, throttle module and throttle sensor if running drive by wire just to name a few required parts to make it work. This is where it gets expensive. The Sniper master kit comes with fuel pump, throttle body, ECM and harness plus more. The terminator x really makes no sense in purchasing because on a vehicle that already has port injection why would you wanna purchase this when you can pay a tuner approximately $350 with an HP system and get the same results? I understand that some want the modern engine look. But for my application a modern looking engine in my opinion would devalue my truck. I’ve been building LS engines for the last 15 years and I’ve used every type of induction there is for each of my customers, from twin turbo, supercharged and in my own personal engine high compression. After doing all the research on pricing, looks and power this option (Holley Sniper) was the best choice hands down. I’m not sure what your experience is with LS engines but in my previous experience I built 2 6.0L LS LQ9 engines nearly identical except one was for port injection and tuned using the HP system and the other using the sniper with a MSD 6014 box and the sniper made 32 more horsepower. The difference in the installation process was extremely easy for the Sniper in comparison to the multi-port injection. The one engine with port injection was for a customer of mine and the sniper is mine. I’m simply trying to educate people that are looking for a LS engine for their classic car and still have the classic look but have the power and reliability of a modern LS engine. The Sniper isn’t the only way to go but if your on a budget but still want all these amenities, for the price and horsepower I couldn’t find anything else that could compare. Even the more expensive induction systems were nearly equal or less power and less simplicity installation.
#27
I’m sorry if I offended anybody on this site and I now realize you are referring to the terminator x. I wasn’t trying to offend anyone buy using the word ignorant but just simply stated your not familiar in my opinion and my previous experience in this subject if you have experienced this first hand like I have. The terminator x just reinforces my point even more so. With the terminator x purchase for $1,000 your just purchasing a ECM and harness. No type of induction hardware I.E. intake, throttle body or for that matter injectors, MAF, MAP, throttle module and throttle sensor if running drive by wire just to name a few required parts to make it work. This is where it gets expensive. The Sniper master kit comes with fuel pump, throttle body, ECM and harness plus more. The terminator x really makes no sense in purchasing because on a vehicle that already has port injection why would you wanna purchase this when you can pay a tuner approximately $350 with an HP system and get the same results? I understand that some want the modern engine look. But for my application a modern looking engine in my opinion would devalue my truck. I’ve been building LS engines for the last 15 years and I’ve used every type of induction there is for each of my customers, from twin turbo, supercharged and in my own personal engine high compression. After doing all the research on pricing, looks and power this option (Holley Sniper) was the best choice hands down. I’m not sure what your experience is with LS engines but in my previous experience I built 2 6.0L LS LQ9 engines nearly identical except one was for port injection and tuned using the HP system and the other using the sniper with a MSD 6014 box and the sniper made 32 more horsepower. The difference in the installation process was extremely easy for the Sniper in comparison to the multi-port injection. The one engine with port injection was for a customer of mine and the sniper is mine. I’m simply trying to educate people that are looking for a LS engine for their classic car and still have the classic look but have the power and reliability of a modern LS engine. The Sniper isn’t the only way to go but if your on a budget but still want all these amenities, for the price and horsepower I couldn’t find anything else that could compare. Even the more expensive induction systems were nearly equal or less power and less simplicity installation.
As far as saying why us the Terminator X system when you could just pay a tuner $350... You still either have to buy a $600 harness or make your own, With the terminator X you also get a 3.5" lcd that you won't get if you use a stock computer. That and you'd have to take it back to the tuner anytime you wanted to make changes. As far as buying everything else needed like intake/injectors/sensors.....90% of the time they come with the engine.
Nobody here wants to get into a pissing match and trust me there are quite a few of us on here that have plenty of experience with the different systems and other than wanting a retro look there is no reason to use the Sniper over the Terminator X or the stock computer. As far as building two nearly identical engines and the one with the sniper making more power, That may be true but "nearly" identical isn't getting you scientific results by a long shot lol. Hell you can build two identical engine from top to bottom and they won't make the same power. Even slight changes in weather conditions can knock 10-15 horsepower off using the same exact engine on the same dyno. In you case with wanting to keep the look of a carb the sniper is the only way to go unless you want to pony up and get the Terminator you linked above.
Last edited by LLLosingit; 07-03-2019 at 06:03 PM.
#28
427 LSX TT with the goal of making 1300 hp on 20 lbs of boost at 11.1 compression on E85 flex fuel and a holley dominator to control it all.
245 heads port matched to the ported $600 sniper intake. Car doesn't need to make any more HP than that because the ET would be over 8.5 sec and it doesn't have a 25 point cage. Just a take out when it's nice outside heavy *** street car with a 10 point that can be driven to the track, run mid 8's on occasion and driven back home while blasting the AC.
On this theoretical setup, tell me why on a 4th gen camaro I should go for one of those intakes with longer runners that requires you to cut the cowl or get a aftermarket hood or both? I see all these big *** intakes with cut cowls and aftermarket hoods and I'm wondering what would be the benefit of something like that based on the situation above. Does it do anything for the longevity of the motor?
245 heads port matched to the ported $600 sniper intake. Car doesn't need to make any more HP than that because the ET would be over 8.5 sec and it doesn't have a 25 point cage. Just a take out when it's nice outside heavy *** street car with a 10 point that can be driven to the track, run mid 8's on occasion and driven back home while blasting the AC.
On this theoretical setup, tell me why on a 4th gen camaro I should go for one of those intakes with longer runners that requires you to cut the cowl or get a aftermarket hood or both? I see all these big *** intakes with cut cowls and aftermarket hoods and I'm wondering what would be the benefit of something like that based on the situation above. Does it do anything for the longevity of the motor?
#29
On this theoretical setup, tell me why on a 4th gen camaro I should go for one of those intakes with longer runners that requires you to cut the cowl or get a aftermarket hood or both? I see all these big *** intakes with cut cowls and aftermarket hoods and I'm wondering what would be the benefit of something like that based on the situation above. Does it do anything for the longevity of the motor?
Last edited by LLLosingit; 07-07-2019 at 07:49 PM.
#30
https://www.holley.com/products/inta...parts/822102-1
jk saw the topic after a search and didn't realize this topic has nothing to do with the intake.
#31
One holley sniper is as good as another
https://www.holley.com/products/inta...parts/822102-1
jk saw the topic after a search and didn't realize this topic has nothing to do with the intake.
https://www.holley.com/products/inta...parts/822102-1
jk saw the topic after a search and didn't realize this topic has nothing to do with the intake.
#32
#33
You would need a TCM, there are several aftermarket ones they have gotten fairly economical ,,
but I think based on the original question he would have already had to handle that.
Biggest reason I can see to replace a carb with a sniper is the packaging.. it fits in older cars that had carbs..
The one using regular injectors instead of the old TBI egg injectors do some impressive stuff.
I"ve seen refurbished ones not eh Holley page for < 1000.
TBI gives up nothing significant to MPI, if your looking at top end power. even boosted,
heck way way back we were slapping a turbo of a diesel truck on big block chevy
engines with 4 barrel TBI and making stupid power for the time.. (Mud trucks... LOL)
but I think based on the original question he would have already had to handle that.
Biggest reason I can see to replace a carb with a sniper is the packaging.. it fits in older cars that had carbs..
The one using regular injectors instead of the old TBI egg injectors do some impressive stuff.
I"ve seen refurbished ones not eh Holley page for < 1000.
TBI gives up nothing significant to MPI, if your looking at top end power. even boosted,
heck way way back we were slapping a turbo of a diesel truck on big block chevy
engines with 4 barrel TBI and making stupid power for the time.. (Mud trucks... LOL)
#34
Joined: Mar 2003
Posts: 10,258
Likes: 1,560
From: The City of Fountains
#35
So, after trying to get a Holley sniper and MSD 6014 to work together……
you use the purple wire that is wrapped with the green wire for the tach signal.
this had me chasing my tail why the yellow wire would not work.
4 sources said to use yellow and they were wrong
just a heads up for folks searching this ****
you use the purple wire that is wrapped with the green wire for the tach signal.
this had me chasing my tail why the yellow wire would not work.
4 sources said to use yellow and they were wrong
just a heads up for folks searching this ****
The following users liked this post:
JohnnyRacer (02-14-2022)
#36
So, after trying to get a Holley sniper and MSD 6014 to work together……
you use the purple wire that is wrapped with the green wire for the tach signal.
this had me chasing my tail why the yellow wire would not work.
4 sources said to use yellow and they were wrong
just a heads up for folks searching this ****
you use the purple wire that is wrapped with the green wire for the tach signal.
this had me chasing my tail why the yellow wire would not work.
4 sources said to use yellow and they were wrong
just a heads up for folks searching this ****
Now...What do you plug in to the Engine Coolant Temp sensor into? The MSD box or the Sniper? I am assuming the digital dash I am running will pick up the ECT reading from the CAN bus on the Sniper system (where the 3.5" screen would have been plugged into) if I am supposed to plug the Sniper lead into the ECT sensor but not sure that would work if the MSD lead gets plugged into the ECT sensor.
#37
Holley sniper
Do you have a wire diagram or know where I can find one. I have a 5.3 with LS msd box and super sniper but I can’t get the wiring right
I did ! If you need any help pm me . I have a 6.0 with 243 heads and a 230/236-596-586-112 cam . It works really good however at the current time I'm about To go from a dual plain to a single plain intake because of a few issues caused by the dual plain . Car idles better and has more stable afr and the harness from Holley is plug and play and very neat. Your 6014 will work just fine .
#38
Outfrigginstanding! I was literally just searching for this answer right here.
So the Crank Signal Sensor Positive (+) violet wire from the Sniper system goes to the to the tach output grey wire on the MSD6014 box.
Then the rest of the the MSD6014 gets wired as per the instruction manual correct?
Now...What do you plug in to the Engine Coolant Temp sensor into?
The MSD box or the Sniper?
I am assuming the digital dash I am running will pick up the ECT reading from the CAN bus on the Sniper system
(where the 3.5" screen would have been plugged into) if I am supposed to plug the Sniper lead into the ECT
sensor but not sure that would work if the MSD lead gets plugged into the ECT sensor.
So the Crank Signal Sensor Positive (+) violet wire from the Sniper system goes to the to the tach output grey wire on the MSD6014 box.
Then the rest of the the MSD6014 gets wired as per the instruction manual correct?
Now...What do you plug in to the Engine Coolant Temp sensor into?
The MSD box or the Sniper?
I am assuming the digital dash I am running will pick up the ECT reading from the CAN bus on the Sniper system
(where the 3.5" screen would have been plugged into) if I am supposed to plug the Sniper lead into the ECT
sensor but not sure that would work if the MSD lead gets plugged into the ECT sensor.
Run one for the Sniper (drivers side front of the head) and the other to the 6014 (passenger rear). They can be found on eBay for under $7 each plus tax.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/403100774009
Pretty sure same one works for both setups since both ignition and MSD box are Holley products.
As for the wiring, You have to run the Holley configuration wizard and make sure to tell it you are using CD Ignition.
You can then connect the tach wire (yellow) from the 60 series to the purple wire in the MSD twisted pair wires of
green and purple. Either cut and splice to make this connection, or buy the extension harness and make your own. PN 8860 MSD
To test it before doing cutting and splicing, just bare off a little of the yellow wire from the MSD box, and insert it into the purple wire of the Sniper.
Crank the engine over watching for RPM signal on the Terminator display.
If it doesn't show, you need to make sure to run the Configuration Wizard again before trying again.
This is also the same wiring setup you would do for the Daytona Smart Spark in case anyone is wondering.
But that unit is EXTREMELY picky about coils apparently.
I bought a 6010 used to not have to chase down what is wrong with the Daytona setup,
even after trying to get it going for over a month.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/154792596620