what should i get????
07-26-2009, 05:29 PM
#21
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If you paid $2,500 to rebuild a 4l60e, you got robbed.
Traction control sucks. It's no help on slippery roads, especially ice or snow. I have one and live in New England. I know snow & Ice. Traction control is as bad if not worse than without.
Traction control sucks. It's no help on slippery roads, especially ice or snow. I have one and live in New England. I know snow & Ice. Traction control is as bad if not worse than without.
07-26-2009, 07:05 PM
#22
The blinkers confuse me... not sure what that is about.
If you intend on modifying the car, it's not a bad idea at all to buy a car that has been modded similar to what you wanted to do to it (it'll save you a LOT of money in parts), but make sure the person documented what the heck is on the car.
I get really annoyed looking at ebay, and the person says something like "aftermarket wheels, exhaust, computer chip, headers, and suspension."
Changes without documentation of what company made them, what the heck they are would bother ME immensely. Not knowing what the wheels are (assuming they are larger or wider than stock) and having to figure out what PSI to inflate the tires would drive ME nuts. I like to know what is on the car.
Here's a good example car:
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/1995-...lenotsupported
The seller states exactly what was changed on the car, and there are a lot of expensive mods on there. If somebody would actually pay what this seller would take (which I assume would be around 12k) they'd be getting a really great car. Those Brembo brakes cost over $3,000 for the front rotors and calipers, so this car is an awesome bargain.
Find a '98+ one modified similarly, and you can have a really tricked out car without spending $10,000 or more of your own money on parts and labor. Just make sure they know what has been done to the car.
Some people cost-cut on Camaros, so beware of that. Instead of buying springs that will lower the car, they just cut the stock springs. The spring rate could be all messed up and affect the handling of the car, despite looking cool and low. It could cause camber/caster and even tire wear issues.
Ask someone who is experienced with mechanical stuff like lemons12 obviously is before buying a car. Send him a link to where it is for sale or something.
I specialize in knowing the history of the stock parts and such and mostly appearance items... I couldn't tell you a single thing about drag racing parts like Ford rear ends, etc. I just have a general idea of what mods are crap, and what mods are not.
If you intend on modifying the car, it's not a bad idea at all to buy a car that has been modded similar to what you wanted to do to it (it'll save you a LOT of money in parts), but make sure the person documented what the heck is on the car.
I get really annoyed looking at ebay, and the person says something like "aftermarket wheels, exhaust, computer chip, headers, and suspension."
Changes without documentation of what company made them, what the heck they are would bother ME immensely. Not knowing what the wheels are (assuming they are larger or wider than stock) and having to figure out what PSI to inflate the tires would drive ME nuts. I like to know what is on the car.
Here's a good example car:
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/1995-...lenotsupported
The seller states exactly what was changed on the car, and there are a lot of expensive mods on there. If somebody would actually pay what this seller would take (which I assume would be around 12k) they'd be getting a really great car. Those Brembo brakes cost over $3,000 for the front rotors and calipers, so this car is an awesome bargain.
Find a '98+ one modified similarly, and you can have a really tricked out car without spending $10,000 or more of your own money on parts and labor. Just make sure they know what has been done to the car.
Some people cost-cut on Camaros, so beware of that. Instead of buying springs that will lower the car, they just cut the stock springs. The spring rate could be all messed up and affect the handling of the car, despite looking cool and low. It could cause camber/caster and even tire wear issues.
Ask someone who is experienced with mechanical stuff like lemons12 obviously is before buying a car. Send him a link to where it is for sale or something.
I specialize in knowing the history of the stock parts and such and mostly appearance items... I couldn't tell you a single thing about drag racing parts like Ford rear ends, etc. I just have a general idea of what mods are crap, and what mods are not.
excellent post!
i saw that and actually LOL'd.. didnt say anything.. but caught it and was very shocked..
hell, you could buy a built 4l80e for that... you can pick up good used low mileaged stock 4l60e for around 800 bucks..
07-27-2009, 12:04 AM
#25
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By blinkers i mean that both ports where the turn flasher lamps are utilized. My 99 has an empty port there. I think the flasher lamps used in 01's are cleaner. The power motors are a real burden in 4th gen fbodies. I have replaced mine twice on drivers side, and 3 times on passenger. And they did have LS6 cams and intakes on the early 01 models due to a shortage of parts. If i am not mistaken ALL t-56's from 2001 and up came with Z06 clutches as well.
07-27-2009, 01:59 PM
#27
I would simply purchase the newest and cleanest one you can afford. The year will not matter as much as something that has been taken care of.
Personally, I am only looking for an '02 because I want the last year for the Z28. If I didn't have that hangup, I would spring for any clean 98-02.
Personally, I am only looking for an '02 because I want the last year for the Z28. If I didn't have that hangup, I would spring for any clean 98-02.
07-27-2009, 06:30 PM
#28
By blinkers i mean that both ports where the turn flasher lamps are utilized. My 99 has an empty port there. I think the flasher lamps used in 01's are cleaner. The power motors are a real burden in 4th gen fbodies. I have replaced mine twice on drivers side, and 3 times on passenger. And they did have LS6 cams and intakes on the early 01 models due to a shortage of parts. If i am not mistaken ALL t-56's from 2001 and up came with Z06 clutches as well.
no fbody came with an ls6 cam.. the 01-02s actually came with a smaller cam than the previous years from a truck.
all 01-02 models came with the ls6 intake.
https://ls1tech.com/forums/1740880-post2.html
Last edited by lemons12; 07-27-2009 at 11:42 PM.
07-27-2009, 10:22 PM
#29
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"...no fbody came with an ls6 cam or the clutch.. the 01-02s actually came with a smaller cam than the previous years from a truck..."
just curious abaout this "no LS6 clutch" thing.
cause i read a couple times over(and in one link you listed) that they had a Ls6 or Z06 clutch in them???? i just wanted to be straight on my facks.
oh and i i'm lookin at this one on ebay...well i put in the first bid
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...STRK:MEBIDX:IT
did i make a good choice??
just curious abaout this "no LS6 clutch" thing.
cause i read a couple times over(and in one link you listed) that they had a Ls6 or Z06 clutch in them???? i just wanted to be straight on my facks.
oh and i i'm lookin at this one on ebay...well i put in the first bid
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...STRK:MEBIDX:IT
did i make a good choice??
07-27-2009, 10:41 PM
#30
TECH Fanatic
**looks at link**
Well, the A/C issue is odd, don't know why it would be needing a recharging that early with so few miles. Cheap fix likely--it's funny what some problems people will live with.
Body issues-- From the pics, I can't see anything negative from the car getting hit in the rear bumper. The hatch looks completely centered, and that would be the only thing I would worry about. It looks just fine! Small dings in the rear quarter panels are so infuriatingly easy to get in these cars, so that isn't something other cars will lack unless they are never parked anywhere public.
Options-- the Bilstein suspension system is very rigid (we have it on the SS) so if you live on a cobblestone road or around tons of pot holes, you're going to get sore. It's a great suspension, but very rigid, about like a skate board on a bumper road. You feel everything, but it hugs the road GREAT.
Mods-- this sucker is modified to be pretty darn loud, so I hope you're prepared for that. It's a bit louder than a Camaro I would want, but most guys here would disagree. I would HATE to have the cut out. You may have issues with getting the car inspected since it has some of the environmental parts removed/replaced, and the cutout could get you pulled over by the police for noise. If it was my car, I'd remove the cutout, and enjoy the wonderful sound of the GMMG exhaust it has on it as is.
Overall this looks like an absolutely excellent choice. You're saving thousands of dollars if you get this one and like the way it looks and is. It has a lot of pricey modifications that you're going to be getting for pennies on the dollar.
Well, the A/C issue is odd, don't know why it would be needing a recharging that early with so few miles. Cheap fix likely--it's funny what some problems people will live with.
Body issues-- From the pics, I can't see anything negative from the car getting hit in the rear bumper. The hatch looks completely centered, and that would be the only thing I would worry about. It looks just fine! Small dings in the rear quarter panels are so infuriatingly easy to get in these cars, so that isn't something other cars will lack unless they are never parked anywhere public.
Options-- the Bilstein suspension system is very rigid (we have it on the SS) so if you live on a cobblestone road or around tons of pot holes, you're going to get sore. It's a great suspension, but very rigid, about like a skate board on a bumper road. You feel everything, but it hugs the road GREAT.
Mods-- this sucker is modified to be pretty darn loud, so I hope you're prepared for that. It's a bit louder than a Camaro I would want, but most guys here would disagree. I would HATE to have the cut out. You may have issues with getting the car inspected since it has some of the environmental parts removed/replaced, and the cutout could get you pulled over by the police for noise. If it was my car, I'd remove the cutout, and enjoy the wonderful sound of the GMMG exhaust it has on it as is.
Overall this looks like an absolutely excellent choice. You're saving thousands of dollars if you get this one and like the way it looks and is. It has a lot of pricey modifications that you're going to be getting for pennies on the dollar.
07-27-2009, 11:55 PM
#31
"...no fbody came with an ls6 cam or the clutch.. the 01-02s actually came with a smaller cam than the previous years from a truck..."
just curious abaout this "no LS6 clutch" thing.
cause i read a couple times over(and in one link you listed) that they had a Ls6 or Z06 clutch in them???? i just wanted to be straight on my facks.
oh and i i'm lookin at this one on ebay...well i put in the first bid
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...STRK:MEBIDX:IT
did i make a good choice??
just curious abaout this "no LS6 clutch" thing.
cause i read a couple times over(and in one link you listed) that they had a Ls6 or Z06 clutch in them???? i just wanted to be straight on my facks.
oh and i i'm lookin at this one on ebay...well i put in the first bid
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...STRK:MEBIDX:IT
did i make a good choice??
as for the car...
if it were me i would not buy a super low mileage fbody... i drive mine a lot (because i love them so much) so no reason to spend thousands more for one with 30-40k miles.. my 80k mile trans am drives like it has about 40k on it.. i just wouldnt want that monthly payment.. but, if thats what you are looking for go for it..
the car is tastefully modded.. for around 400 dollars more you could have a cam only setup.. all you would need is a timing chain springs and a cam.. everything else is there.. exhaust, intake, some suspension, etc...
as for the exhaust.. all you have to do is put the cap on the cutout and it will be normal.. i have a cutout on my car.. the ONLY time i take it off is when i go to the track, when im done and changing my tires i put it back on.. the rest of the time i run it through my magnaflow!
for the AC.. no reason to buy or not buy a car for something like that.. you can buy an entire AC unit off her for a reasonable price.. mechanical issues and a straight body is what you should focus on.. everything else is easy/cheap, even some mechanical..
i think that is a good buy... BUT! for the same car with about 70-80k miles you could pick it up for around 10-12k, without he scratch on the bumper.. just something to think about..
i paid 8500$ for mine.. 2000 w/ 79k miles.. paint is near flawless.. kooks LTs and Ypipe with magnaflow (very expensive exhaust setup) custom grind 226 cam ported/milled heads, intake, gears, converter, etc etc etc, full BMR suspension, built transmission..
just something to think about.. if it were me, i would pass on that one and try to find one with a little more miles... maybe a 00-01 with about 50-60k on it and the same kind of tasteful mods as that one.. save yourself a few K.
either way your going to love it!
07-28-2009, 12:35 AM
#32
i went through the F/S forum real quick and tried to find a couple vehicles i think you might be interested in..
KEEP IN MIND, i did not read every description.. just kind of skimmed through them.. some of these i think are very good deals and with a little negotiating could be an AMAZING buy.. some are decent buys but i thought you would be interested..
this took me about a minute and a 1/2..
https://ls1tech.com/forums/vehicles-...les-m-6-a.html
https://ls1tech.com/forums/vehicles-...75k-miles.html
https://ls1tech.com/forums/vehicles-...6-12-bolt.html
https://ls1tech.com/forums/vehicles-...ardtop-ss.html
https://ls1tech.com/forums/vehicles-...tiful-car.html
https://ls1tech.com/forums/vehicles-...r-problem.html
https://ls1tech.com/forums/vehicles-...d-indiana.html
https://ls1tech.com/forums/vehicles-...range-ws6.html
https://ls1tech.com/forums/vehicles-...-10-900-a.html
https://ls1tech.com/forums/vehicles-...er-ta-63k.html
if you want me to break it down and show JUST the ones i think are really good deals, i will.. no big deal, just ask.. hope that helped..
KEEP IN MIND, i did not read every description.. just kind of skimmed through them.. some of these i think are very good deals and with a little negotiating could be an AMAZING buy.. some are decent buys but i thought you would be interested..
this took me about a minute and a 1/2..
https://ls1tech.com/forums/vehicles-...les-m-6-a.html
https://ls1tech.com/forums/vehicles-...75k-miles.html
https://ls1tech.com/forums/vehicles-...6-12-bolt.html
https://ls1tech.com/forums/vehicles-...ardtop-ss.html
https://ls1tech.com/forums/vehicles-...tiful-car.html
https://ls1tech.com/forums/vehicles-...r-problem.html
https://ls1tech.com/forums/vehicles-...d-indiana.html
https://ls1tech.com/forums/vehicles-...range-ws6.html
https://ls1tech.com/forums/vehicles-...-10-900-a.html
https://ls1tech.com/forums/vehicles-...er-ta-63k.html
if you want me to break it down and show JUST the ones i think are really good deals, i will.. no big deal, just ask.. hope that helped..
07-29-2009, 06:31 PM
#40
ahhh, has a cutout... all he has to do is put a cutout on it and it will be just like a car running LTs ORY into a GMMG... not too loud, noticeable, but not anything crazy by any means..
with the cutout open it will be a bit on the loud side no doubt though!
add a cam then its obnoxious and a pain in the *** to drive around IMO..
with the cutout open it will be a bit on the loud side no doubt though!
add a cam then its obnoxious and a pain in the *** to drive around IMO..