what should i get????
07-23-2009, 09:34 PM
#1
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what should i get???? hey whats up ppl? i'm in the market for a 99-02 Camaro/Trans Am.
not too sure if there is a better year than the other for thos cars. i heard differant things from ppl so i'm gonna ask.
what problem areas should i look out for?
Recalls i should make sure were performed?
stuff like that. i never had one and havent worked on a lot of them so TOTALY in the dark.
what i do know is that i want a SS or Ram Air T/A or Firehawk. And it has to be a 6 speed w. less than 55k on the clock.
thanx
Mark NY
not too sure if there is a better year than the other for thos cars. i heard differant things from ppl so i'm gonna ask.
what problem areas should i look out for?
Recalls i should make sure were performed?
stuff like that. i never had one and havent worked on a lot of them so TOTALY in the dark.
what i do know is that i want a SS or Ram Air T/A or Firehawk. And it has to be a 6 speed w. less than 55k on the clock.
thanx
Mark NY
07-23-2009, 09:42 PM
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I'd personally shoot for a 01-02 car just because they already have the LS6 intake, a must have if your planning on camming or modding the car. The 98 cars are slightly different and less desirable than a 99+ car. I don't know what your plans are, but you really cant go wrong with anything 99+
07-23-2009, 10:41 PM
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thanx, see i didn't know that they has LS6 intakes.
some one told me that the late production 02's had LS6 blocks too cuase they stopped making LS1s and ran out.
so Camaros biult after 8/02 has LS6 blocks.
Is that true at all? i never heard of that.
some one told me that the late production 02's had LS6 blocks too cuase they stopped making LS1s and ran out.
so Camaros biult after 8/02 has LS6 blocks.
Is that true at all? i never heard of that.
07-24-2009, 12:19 AM
#4
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2001-2002 are the best, but if you're looking for a particular color, you'll probably want a different year. You can check my site for the colors Camaros came in:
http://brangeta.googlepages.com/4thg...arohistory2222
The biggest thing to check on the cars is to make sure the window motors aren't burnt out. They are the Achilles heel on these cars and have to be changed every few years because they burn out.
I'm not sure if it's universal to all '98-'02, but the horn on our's used to go out when I would spray water on the underside of the car. Might as well check the horn. I believe there are two horns, because I'd know our '02's got wet and went out when the car started sounding like it had a Ferrari horn (high pitch). The low pitch one would get water in it, but haven't had problems since it was replaced on warranty.
http://brangeta.googlepages.com/4thg...arohistory2222
The biggest thing to check on the cars is to make sure the window motors aren't burnt out. They are the Achilles heel on these cars and have to be changed every few years because they burn out.
I'm not sure if it's universal to all '98-'02, but the horn on our's used to go out when I would spray water on the underside of the car. Might as well check the horn. I believe there are two horns, because I'd know our '02's got wet and went out when the car started sounding like it had a Ferrari horn (high pitch). The low pitch one would get water in it, but haven't had problems since it was replaced on warranty.
07-24-2009, 12:28 AM
#5
my god some horrible advice..
be careful of window motors!?! big deal, 40 bucks and its fixed..
better advice would be rod bolts are weak.. 10 bolts are weak.. things that actually matter..
do your own research, there are good and bad things in all years.
you can pick up an ls6 intake for 300 dollars and do the swap in half an hour... so no need to pay an extra 3k for an 01-2 just for the intake..
there is a full break down of what the individual years had changed on them..
i had a 98 that went low 7s spinning hitting rev limiter and no tune for heads.. that was a da of 2000.. time is the white one in sig
i now have a 2000 that runs consistent 7.4s full weight..
any ls1 can be made to go fast reliable, year is the least of the worries..
if you have the money and dont plan on going crazy on mods.. an 01-02 is the best choice... but if you plan on modding and/or dont have a ton of money to spend on a car.. you can get KILLER deals on 98s.. and 99-00s..
all in all, do your own researtch there are stickies all over this site that have tons of info.. hours of reading and you will be getting facts instead of misinformed knowledge of people that probably dont know too much more than you..
be careful of window motors!?! big deal, 40 bucks and its fixed..
better advice would be rod bolts are weak.. 10 bolts are weak.. things that actually matter..
do your own research, there are good and bad things in all years.
you can pick up an ls6 intake for 300 dollars and do the swap in half an hour... so no need to pay an extra 3k for an 01-2 just for the intake..
there is a full break down of what the individual years had changed on them..
i had a 98 that went low 7s spinning hitting rev limiter and no tune for heads.. that was a da of 2000.. time is the white one in sig
i now have a 2000 that runs consistent 7.4s full weight..
any ls1 can be made to go fast reliable, year is the least of the worries..
if you have the money and dont plan on going crazy on mods.. an 01-02 is the best choice... but if you plan on modding and/or dont have a ton of money to spend on a car.. you can get KILLER deals on 98s.. and 99-00s..
all in all, do your own researtch there are stickies all over this site that have tons of info.. hours of reading and you will be getting facts instead of misinformed knowledge of people that probably dont know too much more than you..
07-24-2009, 01:26 AM
#7
the only thing i saw with your post is when you said "the biggest thing" to check is the motors, and you touched on the horn subject.. yes, those are annoying.. but i dont think that should be something you concentrate on when buying a car.. maybe use it as a negotiating tool.. but im not going to pass a car up cause of a fubared horn or a dead window/head light motor..
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07-24-2009, 02:41 AM
#8
TECH Fanatic
Well... good point. I sometimes forget these cars are getting pretty old, most are high mileage, and you gotta check the mechanical parts for certain before buying the car... The stuff I said weren't deal breakers, just negotiating tools like you said.
I suppose one other thing I can add, particularly if the car you end up looking at an automatic, is to make sure the transmission is in good shape. If the transmission is slipping, (which is often when people put the car up for sale), it's about $2500+ to get rebuilt. You'll know if it is slipping if you are giving the car gas in drive, and all of a sudden you feel like you're in neutral revving the car. If you're driving a manual and it's slipping, you'll know it a lot easier than in an auto, since you'll be shifting the gears yourself. Not sure of the rebuild cost on a manual...
If you're going to be driving the car in winter, and it snows where you live, try to find one that has traction control. I don't remember where the ASR module is under the hood on the '98+ cars, but you'll know easily enough if it has it, because there will be a switch in the center of the dash that says ASR on it.
I can't stand driving our '95 Z28 (no ASR) in ice... if you're going to drive in ice... get traction control...
I suppose one other thing I can add, particularly if the car you end up looking at an automatic, is to make sure the transmission is in good shape. If the transmission is slipping, (which is often when people put the car up for sale), it's about $2500+ to get rebuilt. You'll know if it is slipping if you are giving the car gas in drive, and all of a sudden you feel like you're in neutral revving the car. If you're driving a manual and it's slipping, you'll know it a lot easier than in an auto, since you'll be shifting the gears yourself. Not sure of the rebuild cost on a manual...
If you're going to be driving the car in winter, and it snows where you live, try to find one that has traction control. I don't remember where the ASR module is under the hood on the '98+ cars, but you'll know easily enough if it has it, because there will be a switch in the center of the dash that says ASR on it.
I can't stand driving our '95 Z28 (no ASR) in ice... if you're going to drive in ice... get traction control...
07-24-2009, 12:37 PM
#10
Well... good point. I sometimes forget these cars are getting pretty old, most are high mileage, and you gotta check the mechanical parts for certain before buying the car... The stuff I said weren't deal breakers, just negotiating tools like you said.
I suppose one other thing I can add, particularly if the car you end up looking at an automatic, is to make sure the transmission is in good shape. If the transmission is slipping, (which is often when people put the car up for sale), it's about $2500+ to get rebuilt. You'll know if it is slipping if you are giving the car gas in drive, and all of a sudden you feel like you're in neutral revving the car. If you're driving a manual and it's slipping, you'll know it a lot easier than in an auto, since you'll be shifting the gears yourself. Not sure of the rebuild cost on a manual...
If you're going to be driving the car in winter, and it snows where you live, try to find one that has traction control. I don't remember where the ASR module is under the hood on the '98+ cars, but you'll know easily enough if it has it, because there will be a switch in the center of the dash that says ASR on it.
I can't stand driving our '95 Z28 (no ASR) in ice... if you're going to drive in ice... get traction control...
I suppose one other thing I can add, particularly if the car you end up looking at an automatic, is to make sure the transmission is in good shape. If the transmission is slipping, (which is often when people put the car up for sale), it's about $2500+ to get rebuilt. You'll know if it is slipping if you are giving the car gas in drive, and all of a sudden you feel like you're in neutral revving the car. If you're driving a manual and it's slipping, you'll know it a lot easier than in an auto, since you'll be shifting the gears yourself. Not sure of the rebuild cost on a manual...
If you're going to be driving the car in winter, and it snows where you live, try to find one that has traction control. I don't remember where the ASR module is under the hood on the '98+ cars, but you'll know easily enough if it has it, because there will be a switch in the center of the dash that says ASR on it.
I can't stand driving our '95 Z28 (no ASR) in ice... if you're going to drive in ice... get traction control...
scroll down to second post and it has specific year break down..
plus a lot more good reading..
07-24-2009, 04:32 PM
#11
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but lemons, I thought you were aiming for a z06.. why did you pick up another TA? The white one was sick.
07-24-2009, 08:14 PM
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Some good advice for you in this thread man! The only input i can think of giving you right now is about traction control/ASR. If your driving in the snow i would get a winter car lol. I have a 98 Z28 with traction control and it doesn't move in the snow. Last time i back out of my driveway in the snow i got stuck, just something to consider.
07-24-2009, 10:06 PM
#14
yes, i loved the white one...
BUT! it was more on the "drag car" side... where as my new one might not be quite as fast its so much nicer its unreal.. full weight, ac, rear seats, radio, etc etc etc... plus IMO it looks 10X's better! with that said, im still planning on a zo6 within a years time.. hopefully by that time i can pick up a nice one for around 15k!
07-24-2009, 11:03 PM
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damn it, not to get off topic but this means my tranny is going out? It only does this on the highway when i get on the gas. it's an auto, feels like it popped in neutral 
So take into consideration my 02 t/A's tranny is starting slip at 60,000.
07-25-2009, 12:29 AM
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Its up to you to decide ultimately if it will be the WS6 or SS, i personally think that the WS6 has much much much more sexier styling. Whatever you do, don't settle for a LT1 powered SS or WS6, its an old technology, LSX is superior by all standards. If you want to know some of the common issues. Well power window motors in Trans Ams have plagued them since 93. As well as head lamp motors (horrible grinding sound) that seems to cascade numerous electronic related problems. These are easy fixers. By platform, they are identical. Early production 01's have LS6 intakes (and the really early ones have LS6 cams) and Z06 clutches. But, why bother with chasing down rare year models and passing up nice rides if your intentions are to add mods to the car? I personally like the 01 and up design of the blinkers in the nose. The 99's though (from what i have noticed) are the only year they didn't come with that pesky TSR. You can shop and compare all you want, but you are running out of time to find to find a 4th Gen Fbody thats in good shape and is not being held as a collectors item. If it were me, i would find ANY 99-02 COMPLETELY STOCK with a good clean title and grab it if the price was right. Reguardless of COLOR, INTERIOR, WHEELS, etc.
07-25-2009, 12:54 AM
#19
Its up to you to decide ultimately if it will be the WS6 or SS, i personally think that the WS6 has much much much more sexier styling. Whatever you do, don't settle for a LT1 powered SS or WS6, its an old technology, LSX is superior by all standards. If you want to know some of the common issues. Well power window motors in Trans Ams have plagued them since 93. As well as head lamp motors (horrible grinding sound) that seems to cascade numerous electronic related problems. These are easy fixers. By platform, they are identical. Early production 01's have LS6 intakes (and the really early ones have LS6 cams) and Z06 clutches. But, why bother with chasing down rare year models and passing up nice rides if your intentions are to add mods to the car? I personally like the 01 and up design of the blinkers in the nose. The 99's though (from what i have noticed) are the only year they didn't come with that pesky TSR. You can shop and compare all you want, but you are running out of time to find to find a 4th Gen Fbody thats in good shape and is not being held as a collectors item. If it were me, i would find ANY 99-02 COMPLETELY STOCK with a good clean title and grab it if the price was right. Reguardless of COLOR, INTERIOR, WHEELS, etc.
not trying to be a dick.. but dont listen to this guy, he is uninformed.... my reasons are high lighted..
dont even know what he is saying with the blinkers in the nose?
07-26-2009, 03:57 PM
#20
TECH Fanatic
The blinkers confuse me... not sure what that is about.
If you intend on modifying the car, it's not a bad idea at all to buy a car that has been modded similar to what you wanted to do to it (it'll save you a LOT of money in parts), but make sure the person documented what the heck is on the car.
I get really annoyed looking at ebay, and the person says something like "aftermarket wheels, exhaust, computer chip, headers, and suspension."
Changes without documentation of what company made them, what the heck they are would bother ME immensely. Not knowing what the wheels are (assuming they are larger or wider than stock) and having to figure out what PSI to inflate the tires would drive ME nuts. I like to know what is on the car.
Here's a good example car:
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/1995-...lenotsupported
The seller states exactly what was changed on the car, and there are a lot of expensive mods on there. If somebody would actually pay what this seller would take (which I assume would be around 12k) they'd be getting a really great car. Those Brembo brakes cost over $3,000 for the front rotors and calipers, so this car is an awesome bargain.
Find a '98+ one modified similarly, and you can have a really tricked out car without spending $10,000 or more of your own money on parts and labor. Just make sure they know what has been done to the car.
Some people cost-cut on Camaros, so beware of that. Instead of buying springs that will lower the car, they just cut the stock springs. The spring rate could be all messed up and affect the handling of the car, despite looking cool and low. It could cause camber/caster and even tire wear issues.
Ask someone who is experienced with mechanical stuff like lemons12 obviously is before buying a car. Send him a link to where it is for sale or something.
I specialize in knowing the history of the stock parts and such and mostly appearance items... I couldn't tell you a single thing about drag racing parts like Ford rear ends, etc. I just have a general idea of what mods are crap, and what mods are not.
If you intend on modifying the car, it's not a bad idea at all to buy a car that has been modded similar to what you wanted to do to it (it'll save you a LOT of money in parts), but make sure the person documented what the heck is on the car.
I get really annoyed looking at ebay, and the person says something like "aftermarket wheels, exhaust, computer chip, headers, and suspension."
Changes without documentation of what company made them, what the heck they are would bother ME immensely. Not knowing what the wheels are (assuming they are larger or wider than stock) and having to figure out what PSI to inflate the tires would drive ME nuts. I like to know what is on the car.
Here's a good example car:
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/1995-...lenotsupported
The seller states exactly what was changed on the car, and there are a lot of expensive mods on there. If somebody would actually pay what this seller would take (which I assume would be around 12k) they'd be getting a really great car. Those Brembo brakes cost over $3,000 for the front rotors and calipers, so this car is an awesome bargain.
Find a '98+ one modified similarly, and you can have a really tricked out car without spending $10,000 or more of your own money on parts and labor. Just make sure they know what has been done to the car.
Some people cost-cut on Camaros, so beware of that. Instead of buying springs that will lower the car, they just cut the stock springs. The spring rate could be all messed up and affect the handling of the car, despite looking cool and low. It could cause camber/caster and even tire wear issues.
Ask someone who is experienced with mechanical stuff like lemons12 obviously is before buying a car. Send him a link to where it is for sale or something.
I specialize in knowing the history of the stock parts and such and mostly appearance items... I couldn't tell you a single thing about drag racing parts like Ford rear ends, etc. I just have a general idea of what mods are crap, and what mods are not.