Picked up my new 01' Camaro SS
09-02-2012, 06:41 PM
#22
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Alright thanks for the input, I am leaning toward the MGW. Anyone else?
BTW, I changed out my trans fluid and put some new Redline fluid in it today, and it smoothed out the shifting a good bit. Its still not perfect, but it is pretty close.
BTW, I changed out my trans fluid and put some new Redline fluid in it today, and it smoothed out the shifting a good bit. Its still not perfect, but it is pretty close.
09-02-2012, 07:06 PM
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Alright I'll keep that in mind. I have read several things now about people with the Monster Stage 3 clutch having problems shifting, even with the Tick master cylinder installed. Mine is a lot better now that I think I have the Tick unit adjusted correctly and the new trans fluid in it. I have the factory Hurst shifter with a Lou's Short Stick on it now, but I definitely think a new aftermarket one would improve it. Thanks for the input.
09-02-2012, 11:23 PM
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Thanks, yeah I am already looking around for one. I may end up having to just rebuild this one temporarily and get a 9" or 12 bolt later on. I also considered getting a Strange S60 off of here. I am in college right now though, so I have to be careful about how much money I drop into it. I cant wait to really launch it hard one time though! If I run across some sort of deal on here for one used I may go that route. We'll see.
Love those black wheels good choice!
09-03-2012, 09:51 AM
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a lot of people say dont waste your time rebuilding a 10 bolt but i had it done but i dont go to track or anything either. If you do rebuild it I recommend a ratech overhaul kit and Ratech solid spacer for the pinion so far everything has worked great.
Love those black wheels good choice!
Love those black wheels good choice!
09-03-2012, 11:13 AM
#27
Thanks I appreciate it. The only way I will rebuild the 10 bolt now is if something comes up and I just dont have the money to buy an S60. I still have to wait for these Centerline wheels to sale though before I can order my rear. It sucks that I cant put them on the classifieds here yet!
Carl
09-03-2012, 12:02 PM
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I'm sure I will be going through you for my new S60, and I cant wait to order it! I actually PM'd you a few weeks ago about some general information, and you got back with me at like 6:00 in the morning haha. Great customer service already from Carl guys. Hopefully I'll be in touch with you soon.
09-03-2012, 01:52 PM
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i just wanted to really give a lot of thanks to carl at crp when i ordered my s60, and front suspension. i was on the phone with him numerous times and he was very helpful with any issues i had or questions. weekend or night he always answered or called back. and then the amazing deals and the quality of the s60 and suspension it blows everyone else out of the water IMO!!!!
and 97_ek i really recomend you go that route as well!!
and 97_ek i really recomend you go that route as well!!
09-19-2012, 01:24 PM
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Well I finally got the car shifting 100%, and I was able to take it to the strip. I only made 1 pass because I am trying to save this rearend as long a possible. I rolled off the line easy like I was on the street in hopes of saving the rearend, and I ran a 12.74 at 101 on street tires. I was very satisfied with it considering how easy I launched it, and I shifted from 3rd to 2nd at the end of the run 
That explains the really low trap speed. Don't ask me how I managed to do that, but at least nothing broke. I looked it up, and apparently there have been several people who have done that with f-bodies for some reason. Anyways, I'd say with an S60/gears/ and some radials Itll run 11s for sure. That being said, I need someone to buy these Centerline wheels soon haha.
I also ordered new Prothane Motor Mounts and a new rubber tranny mount because I think some of the popping under the car might be coming from the exhaust popping the floor. I was originally thinking it was the rearend popping when I was taking off, but it kind of feels like its coming from right behind the front seats. It only happens when I am taking off (easy or hard launch). Any ideas what else it may be besides the motor rocking back and forth causing something to hit the floorpans?
Also, I am trying find some pics of the stock rear brakes set-up on a 4 channel rearend if anyone can provide some. I need to see how the reluctor wheels, the drum brakes, backing plates, etc look like on the car. I have some of the stock brake parts, but I need to know what all I'm missing. Off the top of my head I have 1 good caliper, two backing plates and dust shields, and my ebrake cables. Arent the parking brake pads supposed to be attached to the backing plates? Where do the reluctor wheels attach to the brakes? It sucks putting stuff back that I didn't take out because I don't know exactly how it all works.
That explains the really low trap speed. Don't ask me how I managed to do that, but at least nothing broke. I looked it up, and apparently there have been several people who have done that with f-bodies for some reason. Anyways, I'd say with an S60/gears/ and some radials Itll run 11s for sure. That being said, I need someone to buy these Centerline wheels soon haha.I also ordered new Prothane Motor Mounts and a new rubber tranny mount because I think some of the popping under the car might be coming from the exhaust popping the floor. I was originally thinking it was the rearend popping when I was taking off, but it kind of feels like its coming from right behind the front seats. It only happens when I am taking off (easy or hard launch). Any ideas what else it may be besides the motor rocking back and forth causing something to hit the floorpans?
Also, I am trying find some pics of the stock rear brakes set-up on a 4 channel rearend if anyone can provide some. I need to see how the reluctor wheels, the drum brakes, backing plates, etc look like on the car. I have some of the stock brake parts, but I need to know what all I'm missing. Off the top of my head I have 1 good caliper, two backing plates and dust shields, and my ebrake cables. Arent the parking brake pads supposed to be attached to the backing plates? Where do the reluctor wheels attach to the brakes? It sucks putting stuff back that I didn't take out because I don't know exactly how it all works.
Last edited by 97_ek; 10-05-2012 at 09:04 AM.
09-19-2012, 01:49 PM
#34
Well I finally got the car shifting 100%, and I was able to take it to the strip. I only made 1 pass because I am trying to save this rearend as long a possible. I rolled off the line easy like I was on the street in hopes of saving the rearend, and I ran a 12.74 at 101 on street tires. I was very satisfied with it considering how easy I launched it; I only had a 2.1 60'. I think it should trap a little faster once I get the new rearend with some shorter gears. I'd say with an S60/gears/ and some radials Itll run 11s for sure. That being said, I need someone to buy these Centerline wheels soon haha.
I also ordered new Prothane Motor Mounts and a new rubber tranny mount because I think some of the popping under the car might be coming from the exhaust popping the floor. I was originally thinking it was the rearend popping when I was taking off, but it kind of feels like its coming from right behind the front seats. It only happens when I am taking off (easy or hard launch). Any ideas what else it may be besides the motor rocking back and forth causing something to hit the floorpans?
Also, I am trying find some pics of the stock rear brakes set-up on a 4 channel rearend if anyone can provide some. I need to see how the reluctor wheels, the drum brakes, backing plates, etc look like on the car. I have some of the stock brake parts, but I need to know what all I'm missing. Off the top of my head I have 1 good caliper, two backing plates and dust shields, and my ebrake cables. Arent the parking brake pads supposed to be attached to the backing plates? Where do the reluctor wheels attach to the brakes? It sucks putting stuff back that I didn't take out because I don't know exactly how it all works.
I also ordered new Prothane Motor Mounts and a new rubber tranny mount because I think some of the popping under the car might be coming from the exhaust popping the floor. I was originally thinking it was the rearend popping when I was taking off, but it kind of feels like its coming from right behind the front seats. It only happens when I am taking off (easy or hard launch). Any ideas what else it may be besides the motor rocking back and forth causing something to hit the floorpans?
Also, I am trying find some pics of the stock rear brakes set-up on a 4 channel rearend if anyone can provide some. I need to see how the reluctor wheels, the drum brakes, backing plates, etc look like on the car. I have some of the stock brake parts, but I need to know what all I'm missing. Off the top of my head I have 1 good caliper, two backing plates and dust shields, and my ebrake cables. Arent the parking brake pads supposed to be attached to the backing plates? Where do the reluctor wheels attach to the brakes? It sucks putting stuff back that I didn't take out because I don't know exactly how it all works.
http://gmoem.com/chevrolet/1999/cama..._mf04_038.html
Hope it helps.
Carl
09-21-2012, 03:02 PM
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I wouldve been sick.
Originally Posted by wisdom_23
Thats a nice car. Like those black wheels you got. I've always been a fan of black wheels.
Last edited by 97_ek; 10-05-2012 at 09:05 AM.
10-05-2012, 09:22 AM
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Well time for a little update. Well for some good news, I ordered a complete set of rear brakes/abs stuff from a guy on here, and I should be putting them on next weekend. I'm just waiting on the backing plates to get here. As soon as I get those brakes on, the Aerospace brakes will be for sale with the Centerline wheels. That will make it possible for other f-body owners to get these wheels and make them fit.
Bad News: After I got home from the drag strip I noticed a loud ticking noise from under the hood. My first thought was that I had messed something up internally, but it turns out it was just my electric waterpump. I was a little relieved to find out that was all it was, but it still sucks. I checked on getting another one, but the Mezeire Street Pumps are roughly $700, and I wasn't about to drop that kind of cash on a new one. I went to the local parts store and picked up a new OEM waterpump to hold me for a while.
Good News: Luckily the water pump itself is still functional. The idler pulley on it had a bearing go bad, and it was causing the pulley to rub pretty badly and not rotate freely. I called Mezeire yesterday to see if they can just replace the pulley/bearings on the front of it, and they said it would be about $150 for everything. I will be sending that pump off to them soon to get that fixed. I like the fact that my car used to run a little cooler from the 160 degree thermostat. Not to mention it had better MPGs and slightly more power (not really noticeable, but still).
I also have an exhaust leak around my driver side exhaust manifold gasket, so I have to fix that soon. I have the parts already, but I may wait until I do my rear brakes to do all the work on the same day. I will also be hooking back up my AC when do the other two things.
I have boxes of parts arriving to the house constantly it seems like haha. I'll be glad when I can start getting go-fast stuff instead of replacement parts. Let me know if you know anybody who would want those wheels/tires/ and brake set-up. I'll let it all go for $1000+shipping.
Bad News: After I got home from the drag strip I noticed a loud ticking noise from under the hood. My first thought was that I had messed something up internally, but it turns out it was just my electric waterpump. I was a little relieved to find out that was all it was, but it still sucks. I checked on getting another one, but the Mezeire Street Pumps are roughly $700, and I wasn't about to drop that kind of cash on a new one. I went to the local parts store and picked up a new OEM waterpump to hold me for a while.
Good News: Luckily the water pump itself is still functional. The idler pulley on it had a bearing go bad, and it was causing the pulley to rub pretty badly and not rotate freely. I called Mezeire yesterday to see if they can just replace the pulley/bearings on the front of it, and they said it would be about $150 for everything. I will be sending that pump off to them soon to get that fixed. I like the fact that my car used to run a little cooler from the 160 degree thermostat. Not to mention it had better MPGs and slightly more power (not really noticeable, but still).
I also have an exhaust leak around my driver side exhaust manifold gasket, so I have to fix that soon. I have the parts already, but I may wait until I do my rear brakes to do all the work on the same day. I will also be hooking back up my AC when do the other two things.
I have boxes of parts arriving to the house constantly it seems like haha. I'll be glad when I can start getting go-fast stuff instead of replacement parts. Let me know if you know anybody who would want those wheels/tires/ and brake set-up. I'll let it all go for $1000+shipping.
Last edited by 97_ek; 11-08-2012 at 08:26 AM.
10-24-2012, 08:31 PM
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Well I finally got the GoPro footage from my buddy that I raced a few weeks ago at the strip. The camera car was an 06' Supercharged Civic Si, and he ran a 13.4 at 108 on this pass. His car is an excellent sleeper (stock everything except the supercharger and fuel injectors). He hurt a guy's feelings in a bolt-on 08' Mustang GT on his next run. He went 13.1 at 109.
Anyways, hope you guys enjoy the video.
https://www.facebook.com/#!/photo.ph...type=2&theater
On another note, I am looking into doing an 8.8 rearend swap in the Camaro. I figure this will save me $2000 or more easy, which will help out tremendously while I'm still in college. From what I've read about them it should hold the power I'm making plus more, so it should be fine until I get ready to boost the car a few years down the road. Anybody here ever run the 8.8 in an M6 car? Any suggestions or comments on it?
I plan on running an explorer center housing with the 31 spline carrier, cut the axle tubes off, and weld the stock ten bolt tubes onto the 8.8 centerhousing. Then all I should have to do is get a TA mount fabbed up or order one of "Hiltsy's" TA mounts and get some new 31 spline axles from Moser. What does everyone think?
Anyways, hope you guys enjoy the video.
https://www.facebook.com/#!/photo.ph...type=2&theater
On another note, I am looking into doing an 8.8 rearend swap in the Camaro. I figure this will save me $2000 or more easy, which will help out tremendously while I'm still in college. From what I've read about them it should hold the power I'm making plus more, so it should be fine until I get ready to boost the car a few years down the road. Anybody here ever run the 8.8 in an M6 car? Any suggestions or comments on it?
I plan on running an explorer center housing with the 31 spline carrier, cut the axle tubes off, and weld the stock ten bolt tubes onto the 8.8 centerhousing. Then all I should have to do is get a TA mount fabbed up or order one of "Hiltsy's" TA mounts and get some new 31 spline axles from Moser. What does everyone think?
Last edited by 97_ek; 10-24-2012 at 08:41 PM.