2002 Camaro SS #7146 build thread
04-28-2013, 10:35 AM
#61
Don't get me wrong -- I have nothing against the Tick. I just didn't want to spend the money on that yet. I'll likely upgrade to that when I do a clutch swap... which I also don't want to do yet, either.
Than again, if the trans will need rebuilt then it's getting all new everything and the cam/longtubes will wait
Than again, if the trans will need rebuilt then it's getting all new everything and the cam/longtubes will wait
04-30-2013, 06:20 PM
#62
Well, the good news is I'm not sticking in gear any longer. I'm also not stuck to the floor on the 1-2 and 2-3 shifts. Unfortunately, the pedal sticks about halfway off the floor with the 3-4 shift. Nonetheless, that's a lot better than it was before I started. Further, before it got as bad as it recently did, it would stick to the floor on the 3-4 shift after one pass at the track. On this outing, I was beating the **** out of the car on the highway and back roads for a half hour. Looks like I can continue to compile my cam/exhaust parts 
BTW... here's why you don't want to get brake fluid on paint...
BTW... here's why you don't want to get brake fluid on paint...
05-15-2013, 10:15 AM
#64
I went to the track last night. The car just does not like shifting in the high rpms since putting that pulley on. Not sure if it's because it spins up significantly faster or what, but even the drill mod isn't helping. I think I am going to have to work on bleeding the hydraulics some more -- or just break down and get the Tick MC. If that doesn't help, then it's time to replace the clutch and slave. If that doesn't work, I'm putting an auto in... kidding! 
The first run was my only clean run. All passes were done with tires at 18psi (still running Uniroyal all-seasons) and shifting at 5500:
1.97, 8.32 @ 86.8, 12.82 @ 109.7; 1376 DA, launch at 3000
2.15, 8.58 @ 86.6, 13.54 @ 88.7; 1336 DA, launch at 4000, spin through 1st & half of 2nd, missed 4th (pedal sticking)
2.09, 8.88 @ 68.9, 15.69 @ 63.4; 1237 DA, launch at 3500, spin through 1st, missed 3rd (pedal sticking)
2.02, 8.97 @ 72.7, 14.00 @ 100.4; 1178 DA, launch at 3000, missed 2nd & 3rd (would not go into gear, grinding)
2.07, 8.54 @ 85.4, 13.45 @ 90.1; 1168 DA, launch at 3000, missed 4th (would not go into gear, grinding) -- longer cool down
2.06, 8.72 @ 80.3, 13.47 @ 104.9; 1155 DA, launch at 3000 (light spin), missed 3rd (would not go into gear, grinding)
2.07, 8.47 @ 85.7, 13.37 @ 90.2; 1187 DA, launch at 3000, missed 4th (would not go into gear, grinding) -- tried a longer cool down before making this pass.
As one can tell, it was pretty rough! My 60's were consistent, but after launching, the clutch said "eff you!" and that was that. The only thing I can take away from this is that my only clean pass shows the pulley did help in the power department. I say this because of the following:
10/13/12 - FRA, no filter, lid, ported TB, muffler:
1.99, 8.33 @ 86.8, 12.84 @ 109.4 with a 576 DA (launch @ 2200)
5/14/13 - FRA, Airaid filter, lid, ported TB, muffler, and pulley:
1.97, 8.32 @ 86.8, 12.82 @ 109.7 with a 1376 DA (launch @ 3000)
Corrected (using http://www.dragtimes.com/da-density-...calculator.php ), that is 12.78 @ 109.8 vs. 12.62 @ 111.3. 800rpm difference in launch (and added an filter), so infer what you would like...
At the end of the day, I'm going to do the exhaust and tune before upgrading to the Tick. I will try bleeding the hydraulics as it now sits, but I want some more noise for the street. The does, however, mean that the cam will be waiting until after I get the Tick and new clutch/slave. The endless money pit that is our hobby
The first run was my only clean run. All passes were done with tires at 18psi (still running Uniroyal all-seasons) and shifting at 5500:
1.97, 8.32 @ 86.8, 12.82 @ 109.7; 1376 DA, launch at 3000
2.15, 8.58 @ 86.6, 13.54 @ 88.7; 1336 DA, launch at 4000, spin through 1st & half of 2nd, missed 4th (pedal sticking)
2.09, 8.88 @ 68.9, 15.69 @ 63.4; 1237 DA, launch at 3500, spin through 1st, missed 3rd (pedal sticking)
2.02, 8.97 @ 72.7, 14.00 @ 100.4; 1178 DA, launch at 3000, missed 2nd & 3rd (would not go into gear, grinding)
2.07, 8.54 @ 85.4, 13.45 @ 90.1; 1168 DA, launch at 3000, missed 4th (would not go into gear, grinding) -- longer cool down
2.06, 8.72 @ 80.3, 13.47 @ 104.9; 1155 DA, launch at 3000 (light spin), missed 3rd (would not go into gear, grinding)
2.07, 8.47 @ 85.7, 13.37 @ 90.2; 1187 DA, launch at 3000, missed 4th (would not go into gear, grinding) -- tried a longer cool down before making this pass.
As one can tell, it was pretty rough! My 60's were consistent, but after launching, the clutch said "eff you!" and that was that. The only thing I can take away from this is that my only clean pass shows the pulley did help in the power department. I say this because of the following:
10/13/12 - FRA, no filter, lid, ported TB, muffler:
1.99, 8.33 @ 86.8, 12.84 @ 109.4 with a 576 DA (launch @ 2200)
5/14/13 - FRA, Airaid filter, lid, ported TB, muffler, and pulley:
1.97, 8.32 @ 86.8, 12.82 @ 109.7 with a 1376 DA (launch @ 3000)
Corrected (using http://www.dragtimes.com/da-density-...calculator.php ), that is 12.78 @ 109.8 vs. 12.62 @ 111.3. 800rpm difference in launch (and added an filter), so infer what you would like...
At the end of the day, I'm going to do the exhaust and tune before upgrading to the Tick. I will try bleeding the hydraulics as it now sits, but I want some more noise for the street. The does, however, mean that the cam will be waiting until after I get the Tick and new clutch/slave. The endless money pit that is our hobby
Last edited by demonspeed; 05-16-2013 at 09:00 AM.
05-15-2013, 04:23 PM
#66
Im pretty sure its your pressure plate on its way out man. Sucks you couldn't get a legit run in. Confused was that negative DA? or just a dash in between? Glad you came back with your results I need to get off my *** and install my UDP lol so lazy and this heat with no garage sucks.
Edit: Nvm got it now so thats 2 mph increase from just an UDP and a higher launch? Nice.
I need to get off my *** and install my UDP lol so lazy and this heat with no garage sucks. Edit: Nvm got it now so thats 2 mph increase from just an UDP and a higher launch? Nice.
05-16-2013, 08:59 AM
#67
Im pretty sure its your pressure plate on its way out man. Sucks you couldn't get a legit run in. Confused was that negative DA? or just a dash in between? Glad you came back with your results I need to get off my *** and install my UDP lol so lazy and this heat with no garage sucks.
Edit: Nvm got it now so thats 2 mph increase from just an UDP and a higher launch? Nice.
I need to get off my *** and install my UDP lol so lazy and this heat with no garage sucks. Edit: Nvm got it now so thats 2 mph increase from just an UDP and a higher launch? Nice.
I'm thinking Monster Stage 2 with the Tick MC...
05-18-2013, 04:11 PM
#68
As long as I get my long tubes and tune in by the fall then I'll be a happy camper for the season. Just sucks I won't be able to make it back to the track until after a new clutch. Nonetheless, I've got a slight rear main leak, so I'll kill two birds with one stone on this one.
I'm thinking Monster Stage 2 with the Tick MC...
I'm thinking Monster Stage 2 with the Tick MC...
06-24-2013, 01:44 PM
#74
It's been quite some time since the last significant update, but things are compiling...
I hope to do the calipers this weekend (I went with black; also have decals from bfranker). The O2 sensors are the long Corvette sensors so I don't need extensions.
I should have everything else ready for the headers to be installed before the end of July
I hope to do the calipers this weekend (I went with black; also have decals from bfranker). The O2 sensors are the long Corvette sensors so I don't need extensions.
I should have everything else ready for the headers to be installed before the end of July
06-25-2013, 09:35 AM
#76
Pacesetter, actually. I really wanted to give Speed Engineering a shot, but I want these on before UMI's cruise in August. Further, they're $245 shipped from Amazon right now, so it was something I couldn't pass up. I'm going with a TSP y-pipe and Prothane mounts -- just need to wait until next pay day to get a hold of WS6Store 
06-25-2013, 02:59 PM
#78
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great thread man, awesome detail, and when it comes to maintenance, I'm the same way, do it right!
I'm currently doing similar mods to my SS as well...you have a great running car, those track times are awesome...with my best 60' of 2.17 on streets, makes me realize how much I need to learn to drive lol...one of my next mods will have to be some LCA relocations, PHB, maybe a TA if I'm feeling rich...
and yes I feel your pain with the sticky pedal...I've noticed it after a couple passes, my last couple track visits...gonna try the drill mod and flush with DOT4 while I have the manifolds out of the way...thinking about cutting the floor for access to the bleeder, one man show
I'm currently doing similar mods to my SS as well...you have a great running car, those track times are awesome...with my best 60' of 2.17 on streets, makes me realize how much I need to learn to drive lol...one of my next mods will have to be some LCA relocations, PHB, maybe a TA if I'm feeling rich...
and yes I feel your pain with the sticky pedal...I've noticed it after a couple passes, my last couple track visits...gonna try the drill mod and flush with DOT4 while I have the manifolds out of the way...thinking about cutting the floor for access to the bleeder, one man show
06-25-2013, 03:05 PM
#79
I also thought about just cutting the access hole to get to the bleeder, but ultimately decided against it. The reason being is that I don't find it logical to open the bleeder and have fluid splash all over the clutch disc, pressure plate, and flywheel. I will be installing the remote bleeder from Tick when I do my clutch swap over the winter.
As for traction, the LCA's and brackets really help, so if you're on a budget, go with those before doing the PHB and/or TA.
As for traction, the LCA's and brackets really help, so if you're on a budget, go with those before doing the PHB and/or TA.
06-26-2013, 03:12 PM
#80
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I also thought about just cutting the access hole to get to the bleeder, but ultimately decided against it. The reason being is that I don't find it logical to open the bleeder and have fluid splash all over the clutch disc, pressure plate, and flywheel. I will be installing the remote bleeder from Tick when I do my clutch swap over the winter.
As for traction, the LCA's and brackets really help, so if you're on a budget, go with those before doing the PHB and/or TA.
As for traction, the LCA's and brackets really help, so if you're on a budget, go with those before doing the PHB and/or TA.
Also, my car has spohn lca's but is lowered, so I guess the relocation brackets should be my next susp. mod