1969 Camaro LS Conversion Finally Done
06-10-2013, 04:51 PM
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1969 Camaro LS Conversion Finally Done It only took 3 years from the date I bought the motor, but I did everything myself. Got the installation completed and the big test drive done on Memorial Day weekend. A buddy and I just did the Long Haul on the Hot Rod Power Tour. Engine was great - awesome torque and we averaged just over 20 MPG for the 2,600 mile round trip.
Specs:
L92 from 2007 Cadillac Escalade (used with 28k miles)
LS3 intake, injectors and throttle body
Doug's Headers
Mast Motorsports M120 ECM (controls the stock VVT cam)
Pretty much just a bolt in - HA HA
Rest of drivetrain includes a Tremec TKO 5-speed, a Denny's Nitrous ready driveshaft and a 12-bolt posi with 3.73s
I used the McLeod adapter flywheel, the 'Vette input shaft bearing, a regular small block 11-inch clutch, and a Keisler bellhousing. I kept the mechanical clutch linkage, but fabricated a new linkage using aluminum tubing and rod ends to get smoother motion.
The accessory drive was a GM kit for the 2010 Camaro. The alternator brackets placed the alternator too far out and it hit the frame, so I substituted a 2002 Camaro altnerator and brackets.
Out back is one of the new Aeromotive Stealth gas tanks.
Specs:
L92 from 2007 Cadillac Escalade (used with 28k miles)
LS3 intake, injectors and throttle body
Doug's Headers
Mast Motorsports M120 ECM (controls the stock VVT cam)
Pretty much just a bolt in - HA HA
Rest of drivetrain includes a Tremec TKO 5-speed, a Denny's Nitrous ready driveshaft and a 12-bolt posi with 3.73s
I used the McLeod adapter flywheel, the 'Vette input shaft bearing, a regular small block 11-inch clutch, and a Keisler bellhousing. I kept the mechanical clutch linkage, but fabricated a new linkage using aluminum tubing and rod ends to get smoother motion.
The accessory drive was a GM kit for the 2010 Camaro. The alternator brackets placed the alternator too far out and it hit the frame, so I substituted a 2002 Camaro altnerator and brackets.
Out back is one of the new Aeromotive Stealth gas tanks.
06-13-2013, 10:03 AM
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I will post more pics. I also changed up the stock underhood harnesses and completely rewired and rerouted power to reduce voltage drop to major power users (ECM, fan, fuel pump etc...). I have a couple of schematics for that as well.
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06-15-2013, 11:28 AM
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I am going to post a couple of replies with different topics. Attached are pics of the car covered with official Power Tour dirt and bugs. Going to wash it today.
06-15-2013, 11:33 AM
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Here are some fuel system pics.
Aeromotive Stealth tank, fuel filter and pressure regulator
Aeroquip PTFE hose and fittings - this stuff was much easier to work with than regular stainless hose and lasts forever.
I used a replacement factory hard line from the tank to the front of the car
I believe the fuel rail adapter was from Fragola
Aeromotive Stealth tank, fuel filter and pressure regulator
Aeroquip PTFE hose and fittings - this stuff was much easier to work with than regular stainless hose and lasts forever.
I used a replacement factory hard line from the tank to the front of the car
I believe the fuel rail adapter was from Fragola
Last edited by gheatly69; 06-15-2013 at 11:52 AM.
06-15-2013, 11:51 AM
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The first pic is the engine long block I started with
Second pic shows trial fit of 2010 Camaro accessory drive (this is the alternator that didn't fit)
Third pic shows 2002 (left) and 2010 (right) alternators side-by-side
Fourth pic shows 2002 Camaro alternator mounted in car with .5 spacers to position it correctly.
Second pic shows trial fit of 2010 Camaro accessory drive (this is the alternator that didn't fit)
Third pic shows 2002 (left) and 2010 (right) alternators side-by-side
Fourth pic shows 2002 Camaro alternator mounted in car with .5 spacers to position it correctly.
06-15-2013, 12:23 PM
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This is more for first gen Camaro guys, but other GM products can be similarly wired. I rerouted and rewired the power wires to get better power flow. High quality copper wire and tinned copper terminals were used and all terminals were soldered to the wire.
The first pic shows the horn relay area. The first two relays are for the headlights. The second set of relays is for the Spal electric fan. The green wires are fusible links to protect the circuits. I used fusible links because they handle high power better than fuses. Also, the horn relay is no longer the main power bus or junction.
The second pic is of the new main power junction mounted behind the brake booster. Most of the car's major power using devices are wired directly to this junction. All factory 10 AWG power wires were replaced with 8 AWG wires
The power in the new system is routed as follows:
battery to starter via battery cable. Wire from starter to power junction. This circuit is protected with a fusible link like the stock circuit was.
The alternator output wire and the alternator sensor wire are connected to the power junction. This allows the alternator to "see" the current pulled by the accessories and to adjust output accordingly.
The horn relay is connected to the power junction via the wire mentioned above. Horns, headlights and fan get power from here.
The dash harness is connected to the power junction. Accessories controlled by dash switches get power through here (except for headlights).
The Mast ECM and fuel pump relay draw power from the power junction.
If you need any help in this area, give Mark at MAD Electrical a call. He has been doing automotive wiring for years and this system is one he designed for GM cars. He also sells most of the wiring supplies you will need.
The first pic shows the horn relay area. The first two relays are for the headlights. The second set of relays is for the Spal electric fan. The green wires are fusible links to protect the circuits. I used fusible links because they handle high power better than fuses. Also, the horn relay is no longer the main power bus or junction.
The second pic is of the new main power junction mounted behind the brake booster. Most of the car's major power using devices are wired directly to this junction. All factory 10 AWG power wires were replaced with 8 AWG wires
The power in the new system is routed as follows:
battery to starter via battery cable. Wire from starter to power junction. This circuit is protected with a fusible link like the stock circuit was.
The alternator output wire and the alternator sensor wire are connected to the power junction. This allows the alternator to "see" the current pulled by the accessories and to adjust output accordingly.
The horn relay is connected to the power junction via the wire mentioned above. Horns, headlights and fan get power from here.
The dash harness is connected to the power junction. Accessories controlled by dash switches get power through here (except for headlights).
The Mast ECM and fuel pump relay draw power from the power junction.
If you need any help in this area, give Mark at MAD Electrical a call. He has been doing automotive wiring for years and this system is one he designed for GM cars. He also sells most of the wiring supplies you will need.
