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Thanks. Yeah, Friday was our only cold day so far and it was a low of like 64. Nice not to drip all over the place while working. Also, nice to not be cold so I can ride a motorcycle if I want. 2017 might have to be the year my garage gets A/C.
I saw in some thread others were adapting a Corvette hub at some point, but didn't know how long it lasted vs what it costs. I figured these will be cheaper in the long run with a couple rebuilds, but better to make sure. I think for now it will be stock hubs and I'll get the car driving on the street. Then I'll do those with the sway bars and large sticky wheels.
Did I miss something in the video about factory Brembo brake upgrade where the hubs hold parts on? Does that 5th Gen rotor come from a car with multi piston brakes or is he just risking the knock back from thermal expansion? If I did miss something I'm not going to drop my 6 pistons at this point even if that is the trick to running those hubs unless they do last a lifetime.
Edit: Must be talking about these adapters. Maybe there was a small thing on them while skipping through the brake video? Anyways, with the group buy at $450 and the hubs at $850 it's pretty much to the point that ones which can be rebuilt. Since the Strano site ones have the bearings spaced further it will hold more load than those short C5/C6 ones anyways.
Thanks for the info that helped find more info on that setup.
Did I miss something in the video about factory Brembo brake upgrade where the hubs hold parts on? Does that 5th Gen rotor come from a car with multi piston brakes or is he just risking the knock back from thermal expansion? If I did miss something I'm not going to drop my 6 pistons at this point even if that is the trick to running those hubs unless they do last a lifetime.
My error, completely mistaken link pasted in. Whoops!
Think I found them, but if the link above I posted as an edit isn't it let me know. The link here is dead or something.
Yea, your links talk about the same hub adapters. Idk why you can't view my link, that's odd.
The skf x-tracker hubs are competion grade and used as such. At $350 ea, they're half the price as the Hoosier hubs when replacement time comes... If actually needed.
Hoosier hubs will need rebuilt with specific components, not simple replacement. Someone also mentioned they spoke to Hoosier management at trade show... They didn't know about the x-tracker adapters and wouldn't have made their hubs if they knew they existed
Thats the link "So I bought a shirt…....." I was originally referring to. I don't think you can go wrong with either the SKF or the Hoosier, comes down to price and finding the brackets to make them work for stock spindles unless running the Corvette ones already.
Depending on how big your garage is you might be able to get a large window A/C etc. I got a 2.5 car garage with a 10,000BTU window A/C, keeps it around 76-78 when its 100+ outside. Gets the humidity out to which is great. I should mention my garage door is double insulated so I know that helps some. When its cloudy out and stays around 90 I can get it down to like 68 during the day, it's ******* awesome.
I've got a while to see if the adapters pop up again. If I could get my hands on one I could have my cousin copy it, but I don't think I want to make him try and figure it out from scratch as he is already very busy. If they don't come around at some point I'll probably go with the others.
Unfortunately I have a 30' x 40' steel master building that is 18' high. Great for room, but I'm going to need a 5 ton just to get a slight cool and remove humidity. I'd never be able to afford it constantly running, but just when I work shouldn't be to bad. Maybe some of the spray foam will have to go on it later.
Mounted the upper A arms. I guess I messed up the Energy Suspension bushings because even fully torqued I can swing the arms with ease. Everything I've read said they would bind up. Got my rack mounted with stock bolts which I will change next chance I get to new bolts. Started mounting the UMI boxed lower but stopped for dinner.
I can't find my Master Cylinder mounting nuts, anyone know the size and pitch of them?
Rack on and some bolts replaced. Rack bolts are here just have to change them still.
Would be nice if the directions read set here with this plate to get around stock. I just need to make it for an alignment alive.
Pretty sure I ordered all the bolt kits along with the K member, lower box A arms, and coil-overs. Yet, I still only have stock bolts to mount lower T of the coil-over to the A arm. I guess this gives me the chance to buy metric bolts instead of adding more SAE bolts to a metric car.
Does anyone know how these sway bar end links should be set up? The third nut has me unsure. The directions were none existent and they just need a good picture. I'd rather some good pictures and as little words needed to make the little bits clear.
Last edited by Crf450r420; 02-23-2017 at 09:16 PM.
Is the middle nut free to spin? I would assume/hope it is machined into the threaded rod and the two outer nuts are jam nuts. The middle nut is used to put a wrench on it for fine tune length adjustments. If that were the case, you would have one side be LH threads and the other side be RH threads.
Edit: Now I'm not sure. Is there a bolt head on the very top (against the metal washer) in your assembled pics? If yes, then that can be used to adjust the preload/length in which case the middle nut would be odd...
LOL, that is what I did. Worked it out and then came up with another idea and lost confidence.
I just threaded them all on to keep it neat and I just lost my Master Cylinder nuts. The threaded part is a bolt. I could see it being a jam nut on the joint and a low set with jam nut or it could allow you to put a nut on top and tune the sway bar end height some. I have no clue what that would help with unless trying to load the car for a circle track.
LOL, that is what I did. Worked it out and then came up with another idea and lost confidence.
I just threaded them all on to keep it neat and I just lost my Master Cylinder nuts. The threaded part is a bolt. I could see it being a jam nut on the joint and a low set with jam nut or it could allow you to put a nut on top and tune the sway bar end height some. I have no clue what that would help with unless trying to load the car for a circle track.
Having adjustable end links and coilers will allow you to corner balance the car. If you don't race then it doesn't really matter lol.
I wish the UMI kit came out sooner, this ended up being about $200 more than my Koni sport/strano spring setup. I'm happy with the shock/spring setup, but it would be nice to be on CO's
I plan on getting adjustable sway bars, but those have holes closer and further from center which allows you to make the sway bar act softer or stiffer. I don't know how raising or lowering the ends affects things unless you raise one and lower the other to help it turn one direction?
Yeah, I expect these coilovers will perform far better and it adds perch adjustment for not much more.
01-02-2017, 09:13 AM
