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Update: fixed the bent bracket issue and the rails seem to be seated well and no leaks. I don't want to have that happen again that's for sure. So I've put about 50 miles on the car and will be scheduling a time to have it tuned. More miles to come to prepare.
In other news I went over to my brothers to help button some last minute stuff up on his 3 year build. 98 cobra fully forged and built 32v motor with a turbonetics 7868 turbo. Should be a pretty nasty car and is finally almost ready to start and get back on the road.
I have the feeling when his car is making me eat e85 fumes I'll be needing to get a hair dryer in from of the 408.
Last edited by KyleLanter; 10-13-2015 at 08:50 PM.
Reason: Forgot a word
Ordered some founders adjustable lower control arms and adjustable pan hard bar. Waiting for them to come in. Great prices and from what my research found seem to be good products. I will let everyone know once I get them.
Tuner is booked for the next few weeks then will get me in so I am looking forward to see what numbers she can put down.
Ive put more miles on the car to prepare for my dyno tune session on the 13th. I got a check engine light for a faulty o2 sensor specifically bank 2 sensor 1. So I changed that and put a new o2 in and tried clearing the code by disconnecting the battery. Upon start up the check light was still on so I had the code ran again and got P0155 (bank 2 sensor 1 heater circuit malfunction). From the research I have done some will say a possible exhaust leak? Some will say a wiring issue? Some say a faulty O2 which I doubt in my case. Who else has had this code and what was the issue? I will look through the wiring and exhaust tonight when I get home.
Tested all the wiring last night and got the proper voltage so I guess it is down to exhaust issues (Which I double checked all fasteners and block off plates to ensure tightness) and a faulty O2 sensor which should be new.
Am I missing anything or since I have no cats and a 3 1/2" ORY should I be using a different O2 sensor? Keep in mind the issue is with a pre cat o2 and the car is tuned to eliminate the rear o2's.
Took the car to Mike Norris out of Indianapolis to have it dyno tuned. The Car made five pulls and had a best horsepower 438 with 439 torque. Pretty happy with that Since the car has 9.1 compression and the clutch slipped some so I'm sure there is more in it. Not concerned however since the plan is to turbo the car soon.
Took about a half hour tonight and did the heater hose mod. Lowered the rear a little over a half inch. Looks a ton better I think. Pictures don't do it justice.
Wow, you still have DeCarbon shocks... I wonder how old they are? Would have been a good opportunity to swap them out while the block was out, but I realize it's an additional expense.
I recently connected a fuel pressure sender to the EGR harness using a weatherpak connector and just stuffed the extra wires back into the factory harness after adding a bit of nonconductive metal to the tips. Do you have decent clearance between that Lingenfelter MAF harness and the underside of the hood? Do you live or drive in a dusty environment?
Picked up a moser 9" 35 spline axels, spool, aluminum center section, 3.89 gear, with a back brace and fill/ drain plug. Hoping it warms up at least to a temperature that will allow the garage to hold heat so I can work on installing everything.
Axles are up at moser getting new reluctor wheels pressed in. These had the lt 53 tooth wheels instead of the ls 47 tooth rings. Should have them back today and will get them back in the 9".
Got the Moser installed and took the car for a spin after the winter storage. I have to say that I will never go anywhere besides Moser for my axle needs. I had them switch reluctor wheels for me and had an issue when I got the axles back. I went back up (Fortunately being from Indiana) and they fixed the issue no questions asked. Ended up making me a brand new replacement axle free of charge. Stand up guys and company that's for sure.
So during my test drive my russel quick disconnect fuel fitting came off the factory line resulting in a lot of fuel being dumped on the roadway. Fortunately for me the car did not burn down so I let it air out pressed the fitting back on and limped the car home. Ordered an Earl's fitting that should fix that issue.
Been getting the car ready for some track time and street car takeover in Indy next month. Made sure the rear was centered and aligned properly. Also had a buddy weld on some sway bar brackets.
Installed a umi rear sway bar.
Also took some time and polished my drag set up.
Finally got a chance to take my car to the track and have some work to do. Ran a 13.01 @ 115. Had a 2.225 60 foot. I was running too much air and didn't heat my tires up much but with the car just getting together and no trailer I didn't want to brake something. Also my shifts were not the fastest and shifted around 5,500 instead of 6,250/6,500.
That being said I am thinking I need some advice on dropping my 60. All my suspension mods have been talked about so would simply dropping pressure and heating up better really get my 60's down that much?
10-13-2015 | 08:48 PM
