The official swap thread of my Camaro.56k ,RUN!
#161
Originally Posted by badjuju342
You can use a stock torque arm when you lower a car , it may just have the pinion off a tad. Basically , you'going to wear out your driveshaft U-joint a bit quicker. The aftermarket torque arm will also help in traction if you're going run the car at the strip by keeping axle wrap to a minimum .
#162
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Ok , the last thing I needed to do was install the clutch and bellhousing before dropping in the motor . I chose the Textralia OZ700 . Everything you see in this pic came with it except the ARP flywheel to crank bolts. You do need to buy new bolts and not reuse the old ones if you're changing your clutch. Pressure plate to flywheel bolts were included in the kit.
Also you need to use this . Don't overdo it because you might need to remove the bolts sometime but I have heard horror stories of what happens if you don't loctite the bolts. It's cheap and it's good insurance as replacing the old bolts is.
Another important step is clean the flywheel and pressure plate surfaces with brakeclean or lacquer thinner to remove the coating from the manufacturer to prevent rust while being shipped. Some guys don't do this step but I do. Here's what just one wipe of the flywheel took off and the pressure plate was even worse.
Here , I've installed the pilot bearing & flywheel and torqued the bolts to 75ft/lbs as recommended by ARP , slipped on the clutch plate using the provided alignment tool .
Also you need to use this . Don't overdo it because you might need to remove the bolts sometime but I have heard horror stories of what happens if you don't loctite the bolts. It's cheap and it's good insurance as replacing the old bolts is.
Another important step is clean the flywheel and pressure plate surfaces with brakeclean or lacquer thinner to remove the coating from the manufacturer to prevent rust while being shipped. Some guys don't do this step but I do. Here's what just one wipe of the flywheel took off and the pressure plate was even worse.
Here , I've installed the pilot bearing & flywheel and torqued the bolts to 75ft/lbs as recommended by ARP , slipped on the clutch plate using the provided alignment tool .
Last edited by badjuju342; 09-28-2006 at 05:35 AM.
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Next , I installed the pressure plate and torqued the bolts to 52ft/lbs
And finally , I installed the bellhousing before dropping in the engine. My friend Paul has removed the engine & trans in his '92 (he's done the same swap as I'm doing) and says this is the easiest route. Being that he only lives a few miles from me , he knows I will hunt him down and kill him if he's lied to me!
And finally , I installed the bellhousing before dropping in the engine. My friend Paul has removed the engine & trans in his '92 (he's done the same swap as I'm doing) and says this is the easiest route. Being that he only lives a few miles from me , he knows I will hunt him down and kill him if he's lied to me!
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Originally Posted by 91RS
If I got a new adjustable torque arm, how would I know if I'm adjusting it right and not making the pinion angle worse?
#166
Hey juju, what did you do to prep your rear end for paint? I just bought a junk yard rear end (disk brakes) and one of the things I'd like to do before I put it in is re-paint it (along with the "new" sway bar I took with it). I took it to a car wash and blasted it with the pressure washer and it got a large portion of the crap off but there's still some on the bottom I didn't get. Should I just use a wire brush on a drill and go at it until it looks clean enough to paint? I guess I should paint it using engine enamel paint too?
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I used the POR-15 paint , it's made for rusty surfaces. You do need to remove loose rust and scale before painting. The paint does not like direct sunlight so bear that in mind when painting a component.
#170
Wow, that's a lot less than I thought!
EDIT: Oh, do you think regular ol Krylon spray paint will be durable enough for the sway bar? I'd like to paint that red and I'm going to paint the front sway bar red to match when I eventually buy a TDS wonder bar (it'll be red too). I'm going to get any upgrade part I install underneath the car in red if it's available that way.
EDIT: Oh, do you think regular ol Krylon spray paint will be durable enough for the sway bar? I'd like to paint that red and I'm going to paint the front sway bar red to match when I eventually buy a TDS wonder bar (it'll be red too). I'm going to get any upgrade part I install underneath the car in red if it's available that way.
Last edited by 91RS; 10-01-2006 at 06:27 PM.
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Behold the glory! I dropped it in last night but ran into a prob. The holes in the K-member were too small for the LS1 engine bolts. I also discovered that drilling the holes out were a *&%$^&*! I suspect the Kmember is chromemoly instead of mild steel. Anyways , I had to pull it back up , run down several batteries in the cordless , then drop it back in . I'll be doing touch up on some areas I scratched tonight. First attempt:
Then it's in as of a few minutes ago and bolted!:
Then it's in as of a few minutes ago and bolted!:
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Originally Posted by 91RS
Oh yeah, I forgot about that flexing part!
Any tips on how to put the sway bar back on in the correct position?
Any tips on how to put the sway bar back on in the correct position?
#177
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Originally Posted by badjuju342
Behold the glory! I dropped it in last night but ran into a prob. The holes in the K-member were too small for the LS1 engine bolts. I also discovered that drilling the holes out were a *&%$^&*! I suspect the Kmember is chromemoly instead of mild steel. Anyways , I had to pull it back up , run down several batteries in the cordless , then drop it back in . I'll be doing touch up on some areas I scratched tonight. First attempt:
Then it's in as of a few minutes ago and bolted!:
Then it's in as of a few minutes ago and bolted!:
#178
Originally Posted by badjuju342
I left off the disc brake caliper brackets and had the old cruddy diff cover on it instead of the TR girdle.
That engine really looks beautiful in there!
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Time for some tranny prep , obviously this crappy stock shifter had to go:
And I replaced it with this Pro 5.0 billet one:
Probably won't get the trans in until next weekend as I don't have a tranny jack or enough muscle mass to do this by myself.
And I replaced it with this Pro 5.0 billet one:
Probably won't get the trans in until next weekend as I don't have a tranny jack or enough muscle mass to do this by myself.