The official swap thread of my Camaro.56k ,RUN!
09-07-2006, 09:45 AM
#142
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I put Falkens on the wheels. I'm on vacation this week so if you wanna swing by and check it out , I'll be out in the garage thrashing on this thing. I 'd like to have a roller and the engine in it by the time I go back to work next Monday. With the way things are progressing , I might be able to do just that.
09-08-2006, 06:47 AM
#143
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Finished up the front suspension , did some garage clearing out and I decided the black floorpans and a black rear axle were too much black. So I came up with this:
The rear suspension will be assembled partially to move the car so the engine can be dropped in this weekend. I'm waiting for some parts for the fuel tank ( fuel sender kit GM part #25319676 ,to be exact, so the stock fuel guage will read correctly) so I can't assemble the rear setup until the tank is installed. Expect more pics a little later.....
The rear suspension will be assembled partially to move the car so the engine can be dropped in this weekend. I'm waiting for some parts for the fuel tank ( fuel sender kit GM part #25319676 ,to be exact, so the stock fuel guage will read correctly) so I can't assemble the rear setup until the tank is installed. Expect more pics a little later.....
09-08-2006, 12:49 PM
#145
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DOH! Hit a snag , the rear caliper brackets are not the right ones , looks like they were boxed incorrectly so I'm not going to be able put the rear axle together yet.
09-08-2006, 01:14 PM
#146
Originally Posted by badjuju342
DOH! Hit a snag , the rear caliper brackets are not the right ones , looks like they were boxed incorrectly so I'm not going to be able put the rear axle together yet.
I would think you could at least get the rear end together enough to get the car off stands so you can move it and get the engine in it . You don't need calipers or rotors for that. Shoot, you don't even need oil in the diff, just slap that sucker together for the weekend so you can get the motor in it. LOL
09-08-2006, 06:33 PM
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09-11-2006, 02:06 AM
#151
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Rear suspension is installed.Bear in mind this is more of a "mock up" as the gas tank still needs to be installed (waiting for parts on it) First pic , Spohn adjustable torque arm:
In this pic , the Spohn rear crossmember for the T56 . I ran into a snag because onf this piece , I won't be able weld in the MAC subframe connectors. I'm figuring I'll just make those bolt in and do some more Spohns along the outer frame rails . Convertible differ from coupes there , but I've seen it done. Anyways , the pic:
Next up , the Thunder Racing differential girdle and the BMR adjustable panhard bar:
Quick shot of the Eibach Pro Kit , Koni rear adjustables and the BMR panhard:
In this pic , the Spohn rear crossmember for the T56 . I ran into a snag because onf this piece , I won't be able weld in the MAC subframe connectors. I'm figuring I'll just make those bolt in and do some more Spohns along the outer frame rails . Convertible differ from coupes there , but I've seen it done. Anyways , the pic:
Next up , the Thunder Racing differential girdle and the BMR adjustable panhard bar:
Quick shot of the Eibach Pro Kit , Koni rear adjustables and the BMR panhard:
09-11-2006, 02:17 AM
#152
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Here's a shot of the Baer rear discs:
At this point , we're ready to bolt the wheels on and roll it back to drop the engine in. I've got a couple of things to do first , install the clutch and I'm changing the motor mounts from the stock LS1 rubber ones to Prothane poly ones. Here's what you have to do : You need to grind down two rivets on 1 side of the mount then drill them out and drill three holes out on the other side. You'll need to drill the holes out to 3/8" . Once you've did that, the rubber in the clamshell is glued in and they weren't screwing around on the adhesive. I took a torch and heated both sides until the adhesive finally gave. I want to paint the clamshells silver so no biggie. Left is an assembled clamshell , right is a disassembled one. The red part is the Prothane replacement:
At this point , we're ready to bolt the wheels on and roll it back to drop the engine in. I've got a couple of things to do first , install the clutch and I'm changing the motor mounts from the stock LS1 rubber ones to Prothane poly ones. Here's what you have to do : You need to grind down two rivets on 1 side of the mount then drill them out and drill three holes out on the other side. You'll need to drill the holes out to 3/8" . Once you've did that, the rubber in the clamshell is glued in and they weren't screwing around on the adhesive. I took a torch and heated both sides until the adhesive finally gave. I want to paint the clamshells silver so no biggie. Left is an assembled clamshell , right is a disassembled one. The red part is the Prothane replacement:
09-11-2006, 01:14 PM
#154
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It keeps your pinion angle correct and it also prevents axle wrap on launch . Every 3rd and 4th gen has a torque arm but the Spohn unit is a lot stouter than the stock one. Being that the car is now lowered , adjustable is a good thing .
09-11-2006, 02:54 PM
#155
I knew they all had one, I just didn't know what it did. So it's not a good idea to lower the car without getting an adjustable torque arm? I was thinking about picking up some Eibach lowering springs.
09-12-2006, 04:54 AM
#157
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You can use a stock torque arm when you lower a car , it may just have the pinion off a tad. Basically , you'going to wear out your driveshaft U-joint a bit quicker. The aftermarket torque arm will also help in traction if you're going run the car at the strip by keeping axle wrap to a minimum .
09-27-2006, 11:19 AM
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wow it's coming along very nicely, I'm in the process of doing the same exact thing but my budget is alot more limited. That and when i get a new part I have to put it on, It can't stay in the box lol. But definately keep us updated, that thing is a work of art.
