My 92 z28 (pics inside) what to do next?
#42
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Appearance wise, I suggest leaving it. When Chevy dropped the IROC in 1990 and brought the Z28's back out in '91, the high rise spoiler is what really set them apart.
Keep the TPI set-up. You can upgrade the components on that to give you some more grunt up high. The long runners coupled with the low first gear of the 700R4 make it a fun car to drive. Take a look at the "Big Mouth" base (TPI Specialties), larger runners, a ported plenum, and an appropriately sized throttle body. Additionally, an Accel Super Ram is a tried and proven set up, although it costs a "few bucks". An adjustable fuel pressure regulator is a good idea, too. Anything after that (heads, cam, ect) is gonna require a new chip....NOT a Hypertech... a custom one... in order to give the engine the fuel and timing its gonna want....and dont forget about correctly sized injectors. You can fudge it a little with the AFPR.
Honestly, I would start with the chasis and suspension first. Shocks and struts, bushings, ect. Once you get all of that ironed out, you will be better able to enjoy your new found power from the engine mods.
If money is tight... (like it was for me when I was 16) figure out your goal for the car and take a systematic approach to your mods. The TPI set up is a great platform out of the box...Chevy did its homework....you can easily throw parts at it and have a mis-matched combo that will be a slug on the street and give you more heartache than fun. Rremember...you wont be able to realize the full benefit of... say.... a bigger throttle body... without large tube runners, and better base...ect.
Hope this gives you a few ideas...thats a nice lookin hotrod you have. Its too bad most 3rd gen owners beat the **** out of there cars and dont take care of them.
R/
Frat
Keep the TPI set-up. You can upgrade the components on that to give you some more grunt up high. The long runners coupled with the low first gear of the 700R4 make it a fun car to drive. Take a look at the "Big Mouth" base (TPI Specialties), larger runners, a ported plenum, and an appropriately sized throttle body. Additionally, an Accel Super Ram is a tried and proven set up, although it costs a "few bucks". An adjustable fuel pressure regulator is a good idea, too. Anything after that (heads, cam, ect) is gonna require a new chip....NOT a Hypertech... a custom one... in order to give the engine the fuel and timing its gonna want....and dont forget about correctly sized injectors. You can fudge it a little with the AFPR.
Honestly, I would start with the chasis and suspension first. Shocks and struts, bushings, ect. Once you get all of that ironed out, you will be better able to enjoy your new found power from the engine mods.
If money is tight... (like it was for me when I was 16) figure out your goal for the car and take a systematic approach to your mods. The TPI set up is a great platform out of the box...Chevy did its homework....you can easily throw parts at it and have a mis-matched combo that will be a slug on the street and give you more heartache than fun. Rremember...you wont be able to realize the full benefit of... say.... a bigger throttle body... without large tube runners, and better base...ect.
Hope this gives you a few ideas...thats a nice lookin hotrod you have. Its too bad most 3rd gen owners beat the **** out of there cars and dont take care of them.
R/
Frat
#45
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Fratsit gave you some good advice. Just dont be pissed when a stock LS1 still walks away quickly, just the nature of evolution. I would also look into some subframe connectors for it as the chassis likes to flex more than any other car in history.
If you plan to take off the side trim beware. I took mine off and had to do a little bit of bondo/bodywork. If I remember correctly, there are little rivets that hold the longer piece to the door. The small pieces are just stick on but either way, with the paint being so old and the car being red, you will see a different color stripe in place of the molding.
The car looks pretty clean and if it is low miles, I would just keep working on details including new water and windshield wiper canisters.
i put stripes on mine years ago and even though the paint needs to be redone, I really liked my idea. I followed the natural body lines and brought the stripes in the front to the front emblem. It looks different than most stripes.
I also made the rear stripes wider to line up with the tail lights.
If you plan to take off the side trim beware. I took mine off and had to do a little bit of bondo/bodywork. If I remember correctly, there are little rivets that hold the longer piece to the door. The small pieces are just stick on but either way, with the paint being so old and the car being red, you will see a different color stripe in place of the molding.
The car looks pretty clean and if it is low miles, I would just keep working on details including new water and windshield wiper canisters.
i put stripes on mine years ago and even though the paint needs to be redone, I really liked my idea. I followed the natural body lines and brought the stripes in the front to the front emblem. It looks different than most stripes.
I also made the rear stripes wider to line up with the tail lights.
#46
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Thanks for the props, Randy.
I agree....subframe connectors are a must. You will certainly feel the benefits of installing them. The car will feel tighter and you will not have as many creaks and rattles.
I have bought alot of parts for my '92 that are no longer in production off of Ebay. There are quite a few sellers that still have NOS (new old stock) and factory parts new in the box available. I have bought most of my suspension and chasis part from Spohn. Great products and prices. Strano is up there, too. Both are board sponsors. You wont go wrong with either one.
For a little R&R under both of my Z's, I coated the axle and rear wheel wells with POR-15. It turned out very nice. I have some pics of my '99 if you'd like to see how it turned out.
Careful with that scraping. Those chin spoilers are low.
Chime in and let us know if any of our suggestions are helping you out.
R/
Frat
I agree....subframe connectors are a must. You will certainly feel the benefits of installing them. The car will feel tighter and you will not have as many creaks and rattles.
I have bought alot of parts for my '92 that are no longer in production off of Ebay. There are quite a few sellers that still have NOS (new old stock) and factory parts new in the box available. I have bought most of my suspension and chasis part from Spohn. Great products and prices. Strano is up there, too. Both are board sponsors. You wont go wrong with either one.
For a little R&R under both of my Z's, I coated the axle and rear wheel wells with POR-15. It turned out very nice. I have some pics of my '99 if you'd like to see how it turned out.
Careful with that scraping. Those chin spoilers are low.
Chime in and let us know if any of our suggestions are helping you out.
R/
Frat
#47
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I wouldn't do any drastic exterior mods because that is a clean looking car.
Maybe start on some bolt ons.
But if you want to do exterior, i'd do rims and tires. 17x9.5
Maybe start on some bolt ons.
But if you want to do exterior, i'd do rims and tires. 17x9.5
#49
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You could make it look like mine tho
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I am thinking about good bolts on to do...just can't decide what to do? any ideas? best bang for the buck?
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I only put the stripes on mine to be different but its only a paint job away from still looking completely factory. I even got the 1/58 headers that have the emission tubes on them to pass Houston inspections and to keep it looking more original.
I also took off my upper/lower intake and ported them out to match the big mouth runners and ported the upper, mainly smoothed out the inside.
#52
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I would start with full exhaust and the typical stuff like pullies, throttle body and maybe some gears in the rear end. I wouldn't go to drastic with the car being that it is stock. It is worth more left alone than modded.
I only put the stripes on mine to be different but its only a paint job away from still looking completely factory. I even got the 1/58 headers that have the emission tubes on them to pass Houston inspections and to keep it looking more original.
I also took off my upper/lower intake and ported them out to match the big mouth runners and ported the upper, mainly smoothed out the inside.
I only put the stripes on mine to be different but its only a paint job away from still looking completely factory. I even got the 1/58 headers that have the emission tubes on them to pass Houston inspections and to keep it looking more original.
I also took off my upper/lower intake and ported them out to match the big mouth runners and ported the upper, mainly smoothed out the inside.
#53
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With those numbers, the car will be worth the same money being modded or stock. Someone will buy the car regardless of the price tag, if its left in the right market somewhere.
Point is, make your car the way you want it to be and be happy with it. The car could always undergo a restoration back to stock, just like all the old cars do nowadays, just much eaiser.
Personalization.
Good luck with whatever you do.
#54
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I dont think I can agree with this statement. There was literally a million of these cars made. None of which have been sought after by big time collectors yet.
With those numbers, the car will be worth the same money being modded or stock. Someone will buy the car regardless of the price tag, if its left in the right market somewhere.
Point is, make your car the way you want it to be and be happy with it. The car could always undergo a restoration back to stock, just like all the old cars do nowadays, just much eaiser.
Personalization.
Good luck with whatever you do.
With those numbers, the car will be worth the same money being modded or stock. Someone will buy the car regardless of the price tag, if its left in the right market somewhere.
Point is, make your car the way you want it to be and be happy with it. The car could always undergo a restoration back to stock, just like all the old cars do nowadays, just much eaiser.
Personalization.
Good luck with whatever you do.
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SLP make a nice set of 1 3/4 shortie headers. I am not sure if they are still making them for the dual cat cars, however, you can always call them and inquire. I have not seen the part number listed for quite some time.
Hooker makes a Super Comp header for '82-'92 however those will require a custom y-pipe..... BUT..... Mufflex makes an ORY for that will mate to the Super Comps. The downside is you will loose your cats, unless you modify it. I have one on my '99.
Hedman also makes a set of shortie headers, however, my experience with that particular part number is less than stellar. Let me put it this way.... I won't be buying Hedman again.
I have not seen and "out of the box" x-pipe for this generation of Camaro. All I have seen are custom made.
In the long run, a full length header will be more efficient, however, due to the packaging constaints within the engine bay and under the car, as well as emissions legality most vendors only suggest a short tube design.
R/
Frat
Last edited by Fratsit; 12-15-2007 at 06:01 AM. Reason: More info
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SLP make a nice set of 1 3/4 shortie headers. I am not sure if they are still making them for the dual cat cars, however, you can always call them and inquire. I have not seen the part number listed for quite some time.
Hooker makes a Super Comp header for '82-'92 however those will require a custom y-pipe..... BUT..... Mufflex makes an ORY for that will mate to the Super Comps. The downside is you will loose your cats, unless you modify it. I have one on my '99.
Hedman also makes a set of shortie headers, however, my experience with that particular part number is less than stellar. Let me put it this way.... I won't be buying Hedman again.
I have not seen and "out of the box" x-pipe for this generation of Camaro. All I have seen are custom made.
In the long run, a full length header will be more efficient, however, due to the packaging constaints within the engine bay and under the car, as well as emissions legality most vendors only suggest a short tube design.
R/
Frat
Hooker makes a Super Comp header for '82-'92 however those will require a custom y-pipe..... BUT..... Mufflex makes an ORY for that will mate to the Super Comps. The downside is you will loose your cats, unless you modify it. I have one on my '99.
Hedman also makes a set of shortie headers, however, my experience with that particular part number is less than stellar. Let me put it this way.... I won't be buying Hedman again.
I have not seen and "out of the box" x-pipe for this generation of Camaro. All I have seen are custom made.
In the long run, a full length header will be more efficient, however, due to the packaging constaints within the engine bay and under the car, as well as emissions legality most vendors only suggest a short tube design.
R/
Frat