Auto pulls through brakes when in gear, ideas?
11-02-2008, 07:15 PM
#1
Auto pulls through brakes when in gear, ideas? So one of the few bugs I have is that the car idles really low (650-700) until its in gear, then it goes to 1000-1500 and sometimes higher once rolling...but its loading up and actually pushing hard on the brakes to keep it stopped.
I am sure part of it is due to the cam, but I still would not expect the stock stall to be fully loaded this hard until a higher rpm. Am I mistaken or is there something else I'm missing? Tune maybe?
The tranny also seems to "rush" gears at light throttle. For example once I put it in gear say at a stop sign, I get a 1-2 shift by the time I get half through the intersection and 3rd shortly after. It will kick down fine but I just find it awkward.
I am sure part of it is due to the cam, but I still would not expect the stock stall to be fully loaded this hard until a higher rpm. Am I mistaken or is there something else I'm missing? Tune maybe?
The tranny also seems to "rush" gears at light throttle. For example once I put it in gear say at a stop sign, I get a 1-2 shift by the time I get half through the intersection and 3rd shortly after. It will kick down fine but I just find it awkward.
11-02-2008, 07:48 PM
#2
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Details on the set-up....
What trans?
EFI right?
What size cam?
Tune would affect the idle being low in neutral that should be easy to fix. That is a decent jump in RPM when going into gear, I'd say something was deff off. Have you checked for vacuum leaks?
What trans?
EFI right?
What size cam?
Tune would affect the idle being low in neutral that should be easy to fix. That is a decent jump in RPM when going into gear, I'd say something was deff off. Have you checked for vacuum leaks?
11-03-2008, 10:40 AM
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Maybe the TQ is not unlocking? just a thought. also I would not think that Idle would be low out of gear and higher in gear have you checked with you Tuner. I guess they could have it set lower out of gear for a nice idle lope?
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11-03-2008, 11:41 PM
#11
I did, it seemed to be working as well.
But the last time I plugged the car in there was a code for low TCC signal. But the car was doing this before it was hooked up, while it was hooked up, and so on.
My friend explained that the cam causes a drop in engine vacuum under the load of being in gear causing the idle to come up which loads up the converter. This makes sense to me so I'm guessing that might be the case.
But the last time I plugged the car in there was a code for low TCC signal. But the car was doing this before it was hooked up, while it was hooked up, and so on.
My friend explained that the cam causes a drop in engine vacuum under the load of being in gear causing the idle to come up which loads up the converter. This makes sense to me so I'm guessing that might be the case.
11-04-2008, 10:06 AM
#14
You really can't lower the idle speed with the screw on the Throttle body.. the PCM will pickup the change in RPM and will try and adjust it with the IAC back to what it thinks it is suppose to be, which is the high RPM in gear.
It has to be adjusted via the PCM and tuning software.
It has to be adjusted via the PCM and tuning software.
11-04-2008, 08:50 PM
#17
my cam is based on the TR230/224, same duration, lift, lsa, and ground in advance...only difference is my cam is on the comp xe lobes which are supposed to be less aggressive (didn't know much about comp lobes when I ordered it) and according to one of the cam gurus on here will make about 5-10 hp less than the TR version
so why did I get this one? I got a good deal and it wasn't backordered when I needed it
the less aggressive lobes might help me out since in theory they will be less harsh on the valvetrain and my car is a daily driver and usually my only car...so I don't consider that a terrible thing
I like it...but don't have anything to base it off of except a friend's T/A which has a Torquer v.3...but he has a 4000 stall too. His car I can tell pulls a little harder but how much I don't know and I don't know what my car weighs in comparison either.
I know the cam comes on VERY hard at 32-3500ish and pulls harder and harder until the car shifts at 6200. The cam is still pulling hard when it shifts. If you have better rodbolts I would think spinning to 6500-6700 would be easy and gain some more power.
It sounds pretty good to me, especially with the cutouts open. There is power all through the powerband and I can drive around town easily without it kicking down unless I want it to.
Overall, if I were doing it over I would either get the same thing or at most have it ground on the more aggressive lobes after getting some input from Pat or another cam guy here for what would work well but still not require larger springs or flycutting or that kinda crap.
so why did I get this one? I got a good deal and it wasn't backordered when I needed it
the less aggressive lobes might help me out since in theory they will be less harsh on the valvetrain and my car is a daily driver and usually my only car...so I don't consider that a terrible thing
I like it...but don't have anything to base it off of except a friend's T/A which has a Torquer v.3...but he has a 4000 stall too. His car I can tell pulls a little harder but how much I don't know and I don't know what my car weighs in comparison either.
I know the cam comes on VERY hard at 32-3500ish and pulls harder and harder until the car shifts at 6200. The cam is still pulling hard when it shifts. If you have better rodbolts I would think spinning to 6500-6700 would be easy and gain some more power.
It sounds pretty good to me, especially with the cutouts open. There is power all through the powerband and I can drive around town easily without it kicking down unless I want it to.
Overall, if I were doing it over I would either get the same thing or at most have it ground on the more aggressive lobes after getting some input from Pat or another cam guy here for what would work well but still not require larger springs or flycutting or that kinda crap.
