dville_gt

iTrader: (5)

Well, when I bought my roller the people who built the roller thought it was going to be a dedicated drag car so the gutted it completely out and ran a painless harness. So I am literally starting from scratch. I found a guy who will let me take what I need from his donor car so I plan to pick up all the under dash stuff from him (ac/heater box, controls, ducting, etc.)

I am running truck accesories so I will need to source a truck compressor, bracket, and tensioner. Since I am already running an f-body radiator I figured it would be easiest to just run an fbody condensor so I need to find one of those as well.

What all can you think of that I should get from the mustang donor? What should I do for an accumulator, expansion tube, lines, etc.? I want to do this on the cheap so anything I can get from a donor vehicle would be best vs. custom stuff.

Thanks!

ponjohn

My understanding is that you can use the gm compressor and have custom hoses made up to connect the gm and ford components.

One guy made it sound that simple. Is the a/c compressor going to be mounted high or low?

dville_gt

iTrader: (5)

Low. Anyone know what all components I need from the donor mustang? What all components from a truck?

ponjohn

It hits the swaybar if its mounted low...assuming you're using one

dville_gt

iTrader: (5)

No front sway bar. Do you know which lines work, which accumulator, expansion tube, lines, etc?

ponjohn

Check this thread....a lot more technical info than I can provide.

https://ls1tech.com/forums/conversio...-question.html

72Elkytpi

iTrader: (47)

Give street and performance a call. im using their kit to mount the Sanden compressor up high. They have alot of swap knowledge. I am planning to use the Mustang condensor in front and then adapt the lines to the sanden and accumulator.
Rich

N20neenee

iTrader: (3)

Is the donor car a 4cyl or V-8? The parts are different and have different fittings, but I guess if you grabbed everything from the same car it wouldnt matter. From the donor car, you will need the heater box (under the dash) get the ducting too (or the entire dash while your at it) You will also need the accumulator (engine bay). You could get the condenser and the lines from the accumulator to the condenser. I personally would prob buy new condenser, lines and accumulator. There is a high chance for debris in the lines. You will need custom lines attaching to whatever LS-style compessor you see fit

ponjohn

How do the fox controls activate the A/C; vacuum, electric?

ponjohn

I was combing the Mustang forums.

If you find a wiring diagram for a fox body with A/C and a carb this would give an idea of how to wire it.

The A/C on the EFI cars are tied to pin 10 on the EEC, I have no idea at this point what pin 10 does.

ponjohn

More info:

From '92 EVTM:


A/C-Heater Section

The A/C-Heater Control Assembly and Heater Function Selector Vacuum Valve operate together to control system vacuum and electrical operation. Vacuum motors operate doors to direct airflow. The A/C-Heater Control Assembly connects power to the Blower Motor and A/C Clutch Field Coil (5.0L), or Integrated Control Module (2.3L). For 2.3L engines, the A/C Clutch Field Coil is controlled by an Integrated Control Module. This module is regulated by Electronic Engine Control to turn off the A/C System during certain engine operating conditions. However, for 5.0L engines, the A/C Clutch Field Coil is controlled by WOT Cutout Relay, which is energized by a signal from the EEC Module during WOT and other conditions such as high engine coolant temperatures and low or high engine speeds.

The Clutch Cycling Pressure Switch cuts off power to the A/C Clutch Field Coil when suction pressure drops to 24.5 PSI.

From ECC section:

The A/C Signal is received from the A/C system and informs the EEC Module when the A/C clutch has been turned on. During periods of wide-open throttle acceleration, the A/C signal informs the EEC Module that the A/C Compressor must be turned off.

From PCED:

WAC:

When the A/C demand switch is turned on and the Cyclic Pressure switch/Low Pressure (LP) switch is closed, voltage passes through the normally closed WAC relay to the A/C clutch. Under certain conditions (i.e. engine cranking, wide open throttle) the EEC-IV processor can interrupt this voltage, turning off the A/C. To do this, the EEC-IV processor will ground the WAC output (Pin 54), which will energize the coil in the WAC relay. This will result in the normally closed contacts opening, interrupting the voltage supply to the A/C clutch.


So check pin 85 on the relay connector and in your case it should be shorted to ground. Then we'll need to figure out if its the ECC or a wiring short.

Ford has a break-out box for the ECC connector to help trouble shoot this type of thing.

From: JMBALTZ on corral.net forums.