dm79

iTrader: (2)

long story short,

89 240sx

2000 ta pullout, with t56.

Im keeping my ac to try and make it work once swapped in. I have already had computer sent to have vats and evap etc emissions removed. running a moroso pan and prob custom gauge cluster

now looking at this link is listed as my year fbody pinout
http://www.lt1swap.com/ls1_wiring_ha...rs.htm#In-Line

using this im trying to come up with my spread sheet of things to do to harness

c100 plug
pins
A pink- needs a fused input start and run
B drk green/white- ac request (from ac button to ecm)
c darkgreen- ac compressor clutch solenoid feed (feed to the clutch?)
D grey 5v refference DELETE
E drk blue- throttle position sensore DELETE
F brwn- brake pedal switch output DELETE
G pink- Fused input start and run
H dark blue- low speed fan
j dark green- 2nd fan
k blk- sensor return DELETE?

C101
A vats DELETE
B fused input start run
C idle speed control DELETE
D fuel pump relay (reverse to ground with s13 fuel pump)
E fused input start run
F empty
G Batt power constant
H GROUND TO CAR
J emtpy
k vats DELETE

C105
A tracktion control DELETE
B fused input start run
C traction control DELETE
D traction control DELETE
E empty
F traction control DELETE
G tach (goes to my tach)
H Fuse battery constant power



But does everything else look right so far ? I was told on another website that im completely wrong and a lot of the stuff i have marked delete i need. Like for instance the c101 c plug "IDLE SPEED CONTROL" however i see on a 99 pcm that brn is actually the "air pump"

so im at a loss, b/c my pinouts do not exactly match. and if i do need this idle control circuit, since its in my c101 plug.. what does it go to in my 240? i was under the impression i can just put fused ign to pinks, hot to orange, ground the blacks, green/white to fuel pump, hook up starter and the engine will go.


all the rest is trivial


same with c220/230 plugs

for example if you look at the link i posted my c220 plug is way off..
A tan oil pressure indicator lamp Delete???
B grey clutch anticipate DELETE???
C says pink MINE IS EMPTY
D says purple MINE IS EMPTY
E blk/white GROUND TO CAR
F orng/blk neutral safety MINE IS EMPTY
G brown FUSED OUTPUT IGNITION do i need to put power and fused to this?i though it was just all pink and the orange
H orn/blk or light/green neutral safety or backup lamp MINE is big fat light green wire so im guessing this is wired into my existing backup lamp feed?
J yllow/blk vats DELETE
K grn/white VSS for speedometer



c230
A gry 5v reff DELETE
B brwn/white service engine soon CEL?
C white evap DELETE
D tan seriel data MINE IS EMPTY
E theft deterent DELETE
F grn/white AC REQUEST ( this the other end of the pcm ac request right?
G gry sensor return DELETE?
H green fuel tank pressure sensor DELETE
J fuel gauge sensor (DELETE since my fuel gauge is run off s13 right?)
k green PCM SERIEL DATA CLASS 2 is this my obd2 port that i need to wire up to my obd port i put into the car


So basically just looking for a little direction. I was electrician for 6 years but even this is just a little confusing. If anyone can help out a little it would be cool.

superbean

My suggestion is if your doing a clean swap and want to retain accessories, I would have someone convert the harness for you. Some diy "racing" swaps are easy because they only need about 7 wires from the harness to make it run (along with vats disable). However when adding in ac systems, that almost triples the wiring necessary -- still not that hard, but I would much rather not have a burnt harness and let someone do it that does it for a living that can provide technical support even after the sale

dm79

iTrader: (2)

I'm really down to learn it myself. I'm just waiting on some who have food harness themselves to chime in. MY understanding is Ac for my swap is easy too. Right now I'm just lookin at the rest of wires I can delete. ALso I may of found a 2000 ta pinout.



SO someone who has moded there own harness do my deletes look good so far

TomM

iTrader: (56)

Im not sure why you are even using the connectors. I cut them of completely and just extended the wires to reach a stand alone fuse box, avoids confusion......I guess you could use the tag ends, but I didn't unless you are integrating into a LT1 car...

Click on the link in my sig for some insight into how I did mine...

T,

dm79

iTrader: (2)

Im not using the connectors. IM using the pintout and connector names to identify the wires. I will be extending the ones to fuses. Im more worried about the odd ball ones that i see a lot of people delete. I want to make sure im not deleting wrong wires and they dont need to be run to something else.

case in point c100 D 5v refference.. Im thinkin i should delete this but if i need to run this wire back to somewhere else it would be cool if someone with experience in doing there own harness chimed in

TomM

iTrader: (56)

You should just use your pinout diagram and the wiring schematic for the harness. I would just disregard the connectors alltogether, and go straight to the schematic.

I guess you didn't read my link.......I've done my own harness......look through my post. The schematics are there for your year, as I used a 2000 myself...

T,

dm79

iTrader: (2)

Ok I'll check it out.

dm79

iTrader: (2)

Tom i get what your saying, for instance if i use my pinouts of c100 and my 2000 wiring diagrams

i can see that c100D 5v reff goes from the ecm out to the tps sensor. But there is also a splice and this splice goes to abs brakes

now when i ring out from my pin on ecm to tps im good and from ecm and tps to c100 D im good. So i can conclude that c100D is the splice that goes to abs brakes and i can get rid of it .

Am i understanding this right.

TomM

iTrader: (56)

Correct....

T,