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BMW e39 540i LQ4/T56 swap project

 
Old 08-12-2011, 08:44 AM
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Default BMW e39 540i LQ4/T56 swap project

The '68 C-10 I originally swapped my LQ4/T56 into was great, but I didn't get to drive it enough. A few other e39 swap pics made up my mind that one of these was what I really should have done from the beginning.

Looking to daily drive this thing when it's done














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Old 08-12-2011, 08:45 AM
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Time to clean up and make preparations.







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Old 08-12-2011, 08:46 AM
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This is about as cleaned up as it's going to get... good enough for a driver

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Old 08-12-2011, 08:47 AM
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Dropping it in -- LQ4 Lunati 60517 cam, 243 heads, 42lb injectors, LS6 intake, C6 accessory drive and TDP Stage 2 rebuilt t56 with Diamond clutch and MGW shifter.








Swapping out the factory 2.64 diff for some 3.15's to help with the T56 gearing


Last edited by Jim_PA; 08-12-2011 at 09:27 AM.
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Old 08-12-2011, 08:48 AM
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Got some work done on the e-box and engine bay. I'm hoping I didn't remove something I needed... Like the green relay in the e-box. Don't know where it went, but nothing was hooked up to it anymore, so I'm hoping for the best. I did have the fuel pump working, but after my wire hacking, I can't tell if it's still working or not because I finally got the aftermarket fuel rail to seal...

Re-used the 5-slot fuse holder - 2 are hot all the time, the other 3 are powered by the DME relay.

Used 2 additional relays to convert polarity since BMW wiring wants ground to activate the DME and fuel pump relays.

I left plenty of length coming out of any connector I messed with in case I cut something that was needed. I spent a good bit of time checking and double checking where things went. If it went back into the wiring abyss in the E-box, I left it alone.

Still have not heard back from the driveshaft shop. I'm considering buying a reman from turner and having someone else weld the 1310 yoke on the front. I have a feeling he's just going to call me one day and tell me it needs a new CV and center bearing and it will cost about $600 for everything. At that point I'm better off getting the reman with the servicable u-jont.





This is about as good as the wiring is going to get across the engine. Glad there's enough room behind the engine to hide some of the wires

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Old 08-18-2011, 01:03 AM
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Got the clutch MC just about how I want it. Going to try to retain the helper spring, clutch start and cruise release switches. I at least plan on trying out the spring anyway.




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Old 08-18-2011, 01:03 AM
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The 'vette filter/regulator was an easy swap. The dorman quick connects are barbed for nylon line, but they seem to grip the hose a lot tighter than the factory barbed lines. No leaks, seems tight. I guess that takes another thing off my list.



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Old 08-18-2011, 08:29 AM
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Nice!
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Old 08-18-2011, 09:37 AM
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I love how the LSx and a t56 fit in everything. That 540 is going to be fun.
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Old 08-28-2011, 01:31 PM
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Thanks for documenting this, this swap is definitely in my future.

did you fab the motor mounts and trans mount yourself? is the diff you are using form an M5?
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Old 08-28-2011, 01:46 PM
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Thats going to be a baaad ride. Keep us up on it.
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Old 09-01-2011, 09:55 AM
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Originally Posted by Siwash View Post
Thanks for documenting this, this swap is definitely in my future.

did you fab the motor mounts and trans mount yourself? is the diff you are using form an M5?
No, I bought the mounts and headers from a member Bwmman528e over on bimmerforums.com

The stock 540i/6-speed rear diff is 2.64. The stock 540i Automatic trans diff is 3.15. It uses 12mm flange bolts (instead of 10mm on the 2.64), so I simply tapped my diff flanges off the original 2.64 rear, and slid them into the 3.15 diff. Otherwise, you'd need to buy new half shafts (for the larger diameter 12mm bolts). If I ever need to replace my half shafts, I will probably go to the larger 12mm just because

As far as I know... the M5 diff is 210mm just like the 540's. The advantage to the M5 diff is that it was available with limited slip, whereas no 540 ever came with one. To use an M5 diff, you have to swap a whole bunch of other stuff (about $1500-$2000).

I might eventually do this: http://forum.bmw5.co.uk/index.php/to..._1#entry307778

But for now, the 3.15 open diff I got for under $300 shipped is going to do just fine
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Old 09-01-2011, 09:59 AM
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Originally Posted by Lanaue View Post
Thats going to be a baaad ride. Keep us up on it.
I sure hope so. I have been grounded this week with no electricity and a vacation the previous week that was ended early by the hurricane. This blows....

A radiator mount, diff/driveshaft install, and just a little bit of wiring and this thing is ready to light-off.

Check for problems, fab up the exhaust, and it should be ready to drive

Stupid hurricanes!
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Old 09-01-2011, 12:30 PM
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Originally Posted by Jim_PA View Post
No, I bought the mounts and headers from a member Bwmman528e over on bimmerforums.com

The stock 540i/6-speed rear diff is 2.64. The stock 540i Automatic trans diff is 3.15. It uses 12mm flange bolts (instead of 10mm on the 2.64), so I simply tapped my diff flanges off the original 2.64 rear, and slid them into the 3.15 diff. Otherwise, you'd need to buy new half shafts (for the larger diameter 12mm bolts). If I ever need to replace my half shafts, I will probably go to the larger 12mm just because

As far as I know... the M5 diff is 210mm just like the 540's. The advantage to the M5 diff is that it was available with limited slip, whereas no 540 ever came with one. To use an M5 diff, you have to swap a whole bunch of other stuff (about $1500-$2000).

I might eventually do this: http://forum.bmw5.co.uk/index.php/to..._1#entry307778

But for now, the 3.15 open diff I got for under $300 shipped is going to do just fine
The 8 cylinder diffs are all the same size (210mm), but the M5 diff has LSD and is a lot easier to rebuild.

You can swap in a M5 differential for well under $1k.
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Old 09-02-2011, 01:09 PM
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What type of clutch master is that? I am using a BMW clutch master but the one you are using looks like it would work better. I saw Tilton has on like that but looks a little different then yours.
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Old 09-05-2011, 06:14 AM
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Originally Posted by debreshnev View Post
What type of clutch master is that? I am using a BMW clutch master but the one you are using looks like it would work better. I saw Tilton has on like that but looks a little different then yours.
Its a tilton 77 7/8 bore. I made a bracket and attached the factory pedal eyelet to it.
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Old 09-10-2011, 12:19 PM
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Here it is running!

Still some things left to do before it comes down off the jackstands but engine running is good progress.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qIf-qdRE4kU
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Old 09-12-2011, 07:08 AM
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Fab up a cold air/intake tube and you'll get MUCH better results, both in power and ease of tuning.

AWESOME swap. How was bmwman's kit? Is it as good as it looks?
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Old 09-12-2011, 07:28 AM
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Originally Posted by jmilz28 View Post
Fab up a cold air/intake tube and you'll get MUCH better results, both in power and ease of tuning.

AWESOME swap. How was bmwman's kit? Is it as good as it looks?
Yep! I plan on it- just haven't gotten that far yet.

The headers and mounts are great, quality is very nice!

AC from an F or Y body won't work, I'll have to come up with a custom bracket, and might need to switch to a sanden compressor, but drop-in mounts, headers and oil pan made it totally worth it!
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Old 09-12-2011, 08:13 AM
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Interesting. I have plenty of room for a F body AC compressor. I'd like to see where he located the engine.
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