Bowtie316

iTrader: (1)

So recent circumstances have sort of forced me into starting this project, we'll start with the fact that I totalled my 2000 silverado on Friday and then the s10 I bought on tuesday turned out to have a bad motor, (2.2s are hard to come by) add to that the fact that I have another 4.8/4l60e with wire harness completed for stand-alone and cumputer already reflashed to remove VATS, secondary O2, evap, etc, I figured it would be about the same money to just put the 4.8 in the s10 and will keep the 5.3 out of the silverado for my studebaker project that has stalled.

The plan for now (and I am going to do my best to stick to it) is to leave the motor and transmission completely stock, drop the truck 2-3, get the a/c and everything working and drive it. I built an s10 V8 once before and that one got out of control, went from daily driver to drag racing every weekend. Oh and it will get wheels and tires and the paint work that it needs.

So far i have ordered the following parts;
98 F-body manifolds for modification.
LH8 oil pan kit
2.8 mounts and conversion mounts
B&M sport shifter

I know I will need a radiator too, it looks like people are having decent luck with the stock 4.3 radiator so I will give that a shot.

Also have these on my list but I'm going to wait until next week;
Fuel line and adapters
02 bungs - for modified f-body manifolds.
Exhaust- might just plumb into stock exhaust for the short term.
drive shaft modification - Will need to determine length after motor is set
manifold gaskets 12617944
Throttle cable - silverado cable should work or 4.3 truck should work.

I'm already planning on notching the frame for the trucks low mount a/c compressor. Will have to look into hoses to connect it all. Might have to notch the crossmember for oil pan clearance, also modify or build transmission crossmember.

The goal right now is to have it running and driveable by next weekend, September 16, but we will see how that goes. 2.2 and 5spd is almost out, will be out tonight.

Anyway here are some pictures of the junk.






It looks crappy with the front the way it is but the truck is actually in decent shape, only has 77,000 miles so it should be a good candidate.

huskerpower02

Always wanted to do a ls swap in a s10. Keep us updated. Cool that you're local too.

Bowtie316

iTrader: (1)

Thanks for the encouraging words.

Little bit of progress. Motor is out, I forgot how much I hate pulling 2.2l's. Motor is out and front clip is removed. Found a little surprise on the core support, it is crunched up pretty bad. Looks like a cheap one is around $75 to my door so I'll get one on the way.
Ouch.


Time to put this trans on craigslist. Should help offset the cost of the swap by a little bit.


Couldn't get all the pictures to upload, engine bay is a little greasy, so I will degrease and wash tonight. Waiting on parts so will probably start on the wiring mess.

Bowtie316

iTrader: (1)

Got it cleaned up a bit and marked out the notch in the frame.


Then a few minutes later cut out.


Then after some cutting and welding. Its hard to tell in the picture but I pie cut right above the idler mount and pounded it down about a half an inch before I welded it up, also pounded the inside in a bit for more clearance before welding.

Bowtie316

iTrader: (1)

Okay motor is sitting in there finally.


It has fought me every step of the way. First the holes in the crossmember for the 2.8 mounts weren't tapped, I figured I'd just tap them to 3/8 cause I have that tap but the holes were already drilled too large. So I had to find and borrow a 10mm x 1.50 tap to tap the holes. Then the cheap-*** 2.8 mounts had to be ground on a bit to fit in the conversion mounts. Finally got them installed.

Had to pull the intake to get the motor in, should have done it that way in the first place. Man this is tighter than I remember.

The trans-dapt mounts have 2 different sets of holes, one for stock height and one for raised mounting. I had to put the motor in first in the high position to see if it would work, didn't like that so I had to pull them back out and cut the mounts to use the other set of holes. Cut it like the instructions showed and now I still got to pull them back out and cut some more because they are setting on the crossmember.


This is where the pan is hanging below the crossmember, this is the H3 or LH8 pan. I guess I will add some material to the crossmember to protect the pan.


Anyway, thats as far as I got tonight. I will test fit the a/c compressor and the power steering pump tomorrow. Also hope to get the transmission bolted up and start working on the crossmember.

Bowtie316

iTrader: (1)

I cut the mounts off on Saturday, then had to weld them back up Sunday. It seems the power steering pump and a/c compressor were too low with the engine mounted in the low position.


Had to cut the frame notch a bit bigger and modify the idler arm for a/c clearance, other have had to do this as well.


But it has plenty of clearance now.


Oil pan sits up a bit higher too.


This shows how tight the p/s pump is, thought I was going to have to use a smaller pulley, but it looks like with the engine in the higher position that the stock one will work.


This was with it in the low position still. Has another 3/4" now.


Also I did end up notching the crossmember a bit because it wouldn't let the engine tilt back enough to get the trans bolted up.


That's all I got done this weekend. I just ordered some of the CP poly 2.8 mounts, these stock rubber replacements suck. Waiting on f-body manifolds to modify and install. Still alot of work left to do, I'll probably have to add a week to my project time, hopefully will be running and driving by the 23rd.

mcdonald77

iTrader: (21)

if you need connector pinouts let me know. Pm me an email address and I can send them to you.

Bowtie316

iTrader: (1)

Well I got the pinouts for both the donor vehicle and the s10 off of alldatadiy. I know the one for the donor are correct because I already modified the harness but I haven't dug into the s10 harness yet. If the one I have doesn't work out I'll give you a pm, and thanks for the offer.

Man I just went through your build thread linked in you r signature. Holy crap awesome build. I hope to some day get into bigger a bigger motor and tuning with my studebaker but have a long ways to go on it.

gofastwclass

iTrader: (2)

Sucks you were having to fight so much to get things to fit, but I completely understand.

Good luck on the swap.

There are a few people I know who can get the PCM tuned (disable VATS, etc.) locally if you need it.

Bowtie316

iTrader: (1)

Generally I do a bit more research before jumping into a project like this, but this project was kindof a last minute decision so I am having headaches from that. On the plus side, it is going to be a pretty darn cheap swap overall by reusing the truck parts.

I already had someone work my PCM over a couple years ago when I got the 4.8 so it should be good to go. The only thing I'm not sure about is the A/C, when I went back and looked at my order card for the tuning, a/c controls was one of the things I wanted disabled. Might have to research that a bit, honestly getting the a/c working will probably be a winter project, it's already cooling off here.

Thanks for the support.

oldgoat69

I plan to do the same swap to my S10, so your build is very interesting. You are using the S10 wiring integrated to the LS wiring? Are you using the PCM with green and blue?

Bowtie316

iTrader: (1)

Yes, integrated wiring, yes it will be green and blue PCM. I started going through the trucks wiring at the PCM last night, labeling all the wires that will need to stay.

(Update)
Made it through C1, probably labeled 8-10 wires that will need to stay. Once I get through C2, I will be able to dissect the harness and remove all the wires I did not label. Then it's just installing the new harness to the engine and connecting the wires that I labeled and saved at the PCM. Hopefully the 2.2L harness will support the added draw of the addition 4 cylinders worth of injectors and coils, may need to add a relay.

Also had the first couple bits of good news on the swap, first is the crossmember. All I had to do was lengthen the slot for the trans mount about 1/4" and it bolted up perfect. Used a generic poly trans mount (energy suspension 1108G) instead of the truck tall mount. Checked the driveline and pinion angle and all seems okay so far. Pinion could be down a bit more but I won't worry about that until I get it lowered.

The second bit of good luck is the driveshaft, I knew it would be close but it slid right in and looks like it will work. It doesn't go in quite as far as it did in the 4 cyl, but it has plenty of engagement.

I will continue to sort out the wiring until the f-body manifold show up. Hopefully they will be here today or tomorrow.

On a side note, does anyone know if the 98 s10 and 2000 sierra were both climate control type A/C systems?

Bowtie316

iTrader: (1)

Here is where I am on the A/C wiring. A/c wires from each PCM.

98 s10 PCM
C1-36 AC Request Signal
C1-49 AC Pressure
C2-55 AC Compressor Clutch Relay

2000 Sierra PCM
C2-17 AC Request Signal
C2-55 Ac Compressor cycling switch signal (pressure)
C2-11 Secondary AC high pressure switch
C2-43 AC Compressor clutch relay

So it would appear that the 2 systems are different. However, I believe my compressor already has the high pressure switch on it, so hopefully I would be able to change out the switch on the s10 accumulator for the sierra switch and it will all work. We will see.

Bowtie316

iTrader: (1)

F-body manifolds came in last night, so I got started on that.

Had to move the brake line and ABS wire a little bit. Easy as pulling the bolt, pulling over a couple inches and a self tapping screw.
Before


After


Then after numerous trips underneath to check downpipe and v-band placement I got that welded up. Had to remove the heat shield and dimple 3 and 5 cyclinder pipes just a bit to clear the steering rod. I have heard of others using a smaller diameter rod out of a jeep or something, I'm going to try to use this for now, if I have issues I will change it out.

I cut off the air tube and welded that hole shut, also had to plug the o2 bung and weld a new one in a new location.

This is what the drivers side looked like when I was done.


Started on the passenger side. Bottom of manifold was making contact with the upper a-arm. Had to notch it a little bit.



Also cut into the manifold to make clearance, it's interesting what I found inside. Will probably plug the holes at both ends for the air tube and weld a new piece of metal in that will give me more clearance. The air tube actually protruded into the exhaust gas flow right at the neck point, that couldn't have been good for flow.


Other than exhaust the only thing else I got done was installing the transmission lines from the sierra. They required some bending but are installed on the trans. I'm sure I will have to cut and adapt to get it hooked to the radiator because the fittings are different and the radiator is closer to the motor.

Bowtie316

iTrader: (1)

I just figured it up and I have 25 hours in the swap so far. Half of that is because I had to redo several things from being in a hurry or just learning about this swap as I go.

Left to do.
Wiring (3hr)
Passenger exhaust manifold and y-pipe. (4hrs)
Swap 2.8 mounts for poly when they arrive. (1hr)
Radiator and core support fitting/modification and installation. (3 hrs)
Finish welding up the frame notch for AC compressor. (1 hr)
Install shifter. (2hr)
install intake manifold. (1hr)
Build fuel line hoses. (.5hr)
Tighten all bolts, Bellhousing, converter, trans, crossmember, motor mounts, exhaust, etc. (.5hr)
Intake MAF and air filter (1hr)

Giving me 17 hours for an estimate of total remaining time left on the swap. If I can finish it in 17 hours, that would give me 42 hours of swap time total.


Not related to swap
Still need to sand and prime fenders and bumper and edge them in. (4hr)

Right now total cash out of pocket for the swap is $1014, but the motor and trans were basically free because I parted a truck out and made the money back on parts.

4.8 4L60E swap Paid
Oil Pan - 145.99
Shifter - 148.97
Conversion mounts &clamshells - 73.33
manifolds - 95
Core support - 78.1
4.3 radiator - 79
Fuel line and adapters - 107.27
manifold gaskets 12617944 - 11.61
2-1/2 mandrel bends - 33.42
Poly 2.8 Mounts Current Perf - 70
2.5" v-bands (2) - 39.98
3" vband - 19.99
Computer tuning - 100

Left to buy
Radiator hoses - 30
Intake gasket - 41.55


Total - $1014

Hopefully I will be able to reduce this somewhat by selling the 2.2 trans, head alternator etc.

oldgoat69

Looks great. Just to be clear, you were able to use all of the S-10 wiring an just the extra injector circuits, or you used the LS wiring harness plus the S-10.

simman22

iTrader: (25)

awesome swap man I am actually putting a 5.3 in a 98. I should have went with the H3 pan but I used the truck pan and just notched a lot out haha. you are coming along great with it and I like the v-band clamp exhaust that is a nice touch!

Bowtie316

iTrader: (1)

I had already modded the 4.8 wire harness for a stand alone because it was going in a street rod. So I am using that harness primarily. I will only use the stock s10 harness where it interfaces with the 4.8 stuff. I haven't been through it to list it all out yet but stuff like PCM switched and batt power, speedo, coolant temp, tach signal, fuel pump relay, a/c etc will have to be spliced in to make it all work.

If you have more questions, ask away, this thread is meant to be informational for others attempting the swap.

I plan to post things like 1/4 mile times, average fuel economy, weight etc. when its done.

Bowtie316

iTrader: (1)

Thanks, do you have a build thread going? I had a truck pan but had already cut it up for the studebaker.

I really like the v-bands, they're the only way to go. Edit: if you use the v-bands, after welding, check for straightness with a straightedge and file flat if needed. I must have got a couple too hot and had a tiny leak, had to file them flat. All good now.

Bowtie316

iTrader: (1)

Had a bunch of stuff going on this weekend so I didn't get much chance to work on it but I do have a small update. I got the exhaust and the transmission crossmember done.

Here is the passenger manifold.


Here is the inside of the merge. 2.5" into 3".


And the outside.


And the entire Y.


Also made a short reducer and welded the exhaust to the stock 2-1/4 exhaust right before the muffler but I didn't get a picture.

Also got the crossmember notched to clear the exhaust and got that welded up.