LS1 pwrd NOVA

iTrader: (2)

Well it fit and it had lots of room for the center link on the steering. I am using a stock fbody pan, stock frame mounts, 1" set back plates and stock $20 rubber engine mounts. The passenger head is close to the fire wall, I can't get my finger in there though.

The stock fbody manifolds also fit. The drivers side I had to take the shield off to see how much room there was. I can put it back on and massage the shield so it'll fit also as it is close to the power steering box. I have all kinds of other manis but I think they are trucks n they didn't fit. I have a driver Tbss mani and it didn't fit either.

On lock to lock on the steering, the center steering rod got close to the pan. It may barely hit but only on turning it to the right all the way. To the left no issues at all. The center link isn't exactly centered in the steering assembly so that may be the issue as to why only one side may hit or barely hit to be exact.

I took 17 pics so let's see if they all will show. Well I only showed ones that mattered.

Please let me post them all before anyone posts.

Ill post another reply when done.

LS1 pwrd NOVA

iTrader: (2)

THE NEXT THREE PICS IS WITH THE STEERING STRAIGHT.





LOTS OF GROUND CLEARANCE HERE



STEERING TURNING FULL TO THE RIGHT/PASSENGER SIDE. IT HITS THE PAN ON THE CORNER.



STEERING TURNING FULL TO THE LEFT/DRIVERS SIDE. IT DOESN'T HIT AT ALL.

LS1 pwrd NOVA

iTrader: (2)

LS1 pwrd NOVA

iTrader: (2)

Stock fbody manis with 1" setback plates. Probably can use 1/2" setback plates but it will be close.





Done for now guys incase anyone wants to throw anything out there. I will edit my thoughts above the pics when I have time. Got a softball game to attend.

MisterD

Thanks for the pics! This helps with my situation as well. Are those carshop 1" setback plates? That is as close as my hooker set back plates...what trans do you plan to use?

LS1 pwrd NOVA

iTrader: (2)

I think they are, they look like them with bolts n all. I got them from a friend who got them with a 5.3 he bought. I don't like the engine this close to the wall especially for any wiring or tranny dipstick tube to clear. I have a 4l65e and a t56. I'm sure ill put the auto in it for now to drive n enjoy. I may drill these plates or use the other ones I made and drill them for maybe around 1/4-1/2" setback plates so ill have more firewall room.

Capown

iTrader: (5)

Yeah there the Carshop 1" setback plates supposed to be stock location on a F body. Looking at the pics can you flip your frame mounts? It looks like it would give you a 1/2-1" forward or drill one new hole on the back side of the frame mount and move it forward.

LS1 pwrd NOVA

iTrader: (2)

Not with the fbody pan. I forgot I'm limited to moving the engine forward with it. I may put the ctsv pan back on and go from there. I don't think the 4l60e will fit with the engine like this. Maybe I am wrong but then maybe some one will chime in. Also the stock mani will get close to the power steering box. If my center link was centered it may not hit the pan. It's more to the drivers side it seems.

pairof69s

I've been waiting for some one to confirm this for awhile, as I don't have hundreds of dollars to throw at different oil pans..looks like i'm in the market for a fbody pan now.

thanks for the detailed pics

LS1 pwrd NOVA

iTrader: (2)

I'm like you, I don't have a lot of money but I still spent it on what I read " may " work. I like The way it sits in there it's just so close to the firewall for me not to like that one part. To be honest for the price it depends what u can get an fbody pan for. If its in the $300 range, I'd rather buy the holly pan if it fits better n less clearance issues. I wouldn't buy another fbody pan unless its a real good deal for a 1st gen camaro.

LS1 pwrd NOVA

iTrader: (2)

So today I drilled the plates for a 1/2" set back. It still has the holes for the 1". It gave me room behind the passenger side firewall. But..... The oil pan hits the center link on full turn lock only. I also just noticed that my idler arm and pitman arm need replacing as they are very loose. I can move the center link up n down or forward n backwards. Tie rods look in bad shape also. So currently I don't know how this pan will work with a good idler & pitman arm but ill find out before I make it a final fit. Also for you guys that don't like the 1" setback and need to make them a 1/2" or whatever setback you want, get a drill press or any drill press that spins the slowest possible. Even a harbor freight will work. 1" setback plates are cheap and you can make the holes to whatever u want. This is only if you do not have a drill press as some peeps don't. Also keep that bit lubed up for longevity....

Also, If I don't like what I'm getting with this fbody pan, the ctsv pan is going in and I'm going forward with this build.

gearhead67

Great pics. I just recently test fit my f-body LS1 into my 67 with 1" set-back plates. I used energy suspension urethane mounts. My center link hits the oil pan near full lock. So I'll need to modify the oil pan, or find a new center link. I'm surprised someone hasn't developed a slightly modified center link as there is a ton of clearance to the crossmember. Like you guys, I don't have an appetite for a $400 oil pan. I'm going to keep looking for options. Mine was also close to the firewall, but not as close as yours. Not much room for wiring though. I haven't tried the manifolds yet, but it did look like there was a chance for them to fit. The other clearance issue I had was with the low mounted fbody alternator. I had to massage the crossmember a little for it to fit.

LS1 pwrd NOVA

iTrader: (2)

With my 1" set back plates, the center link only hit on full lock turning right or towards the passenger side. Turning left or towards the driver side it didn't hit. When looking at the center link, I saw it wasn't centered or it was more towards the drivers side than passenger side. If it was centered it may not hit the oil pan with 1" setback plates.

With 1/2 " setback plates it hits a lot worse on full lock left or right. I'd love to keep the fbody pan but this may not work. I could get the corners notched on the pan and that may work but I don't know if I want to do that yet.

gearhead67

I couldn't post a pic in my reply for some reason, so here is a link to my post on Camaros.net with a picture of the center link to oil pan contact if anyone is interested:
http://www.camaros.net/forums/showth...=1#post1754892

LS1 pwrd NOVA

iTrader: (2)

I need to join a 1st gen camaro forum. Is that the best sight you found? Camaros.net?
Honestly the ctsv pan is the way to go but it does hang. I took a pic of it on my build thread as that's what I tried first before the fbody pan.

LS1 pwrd NOVA

iTrader: (2)

Centered the center link today and it still does hit the pan on full lock turning left or right. It doesn't seem to hit it too much on the driver but does hit more on the passenger. Could be because both arms are worn need to be replaced. I need to replace them both to see what it looks like then. Maybe a little grinding on the center link will give just that little more room needed. Honestly how often do or will we go full lock on turns?

68LS

So does the GM 19212593 oil pan not fit? It's only $127. I was planning on using this oil pan kit.

LS1 pwrd NOVA

iTrader: (2)

If that's the muscle car it will fit but it will hang low beneath the crossmember. It's almost like the ctsv pan but hangs more. Have you looked at the oil pan stickies posted so you can compare pans. I honestly would get the ctsv pan before the 19212593 oil pan as it won't hang as much and it's only about $200 complete but doesn't come with the wind age tray as the truck pan has it.

So it all comes down to how low will your car be? If its low get a different pan, if its in 4x4 mode you may be ok.