Engine mounts won't line up
#1
Teching In
Thread Starter
Join Date: Aug 2012
Location: Norway, Europe
Posts: 29
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Engine mounts won't line up
Using the Trans-Dapt plates with stock CSB clamshell mounts.
When lowering the engine, I can get the long bolt in without problems on one side, but on the other side, the mount on the engine will rest about 1" above the bolt hole on the clamshell thing mounted to the frame. The distance between the mounts on the engine and on the frame just doesn't match up good enough.
From what I've read, this isn't exactly an unknown problem - but what is the best approach for solving it?
When lowering the engine, I can get the long bolt in without problems on one side, but on the other side, the mount on the engine will rest about 1" above the bolt hole on the clamshell thing mounted to the frame. The distance between the mounts on the engine and on the frame just doesn't match up good enough.
From what I've read, this isn't exactly an unknown problem - but what is the best approach for solving it?
#2
An inch seems like quite a bit to be off. My mounts were off by about 1/4" on my 69 Camaro, which I fixed by opening up the holes on the frame stands a bit. I don't know how you'd accomodate an inch of miss that way, though.
#3
LS1Tech Sponsor
iTrader: (5)
What kind of vehicle is it? I have seen the rubber portion of the mounts sag because they are worn out (havent see 1 inch though) which results in misalignment of the adapter plates.
Jon
PSI
Jon
PSI
__________________
Your Source for LSX Conversion Parts!
www.psiconversion.com
Ebay Store
Facebook/psiconversion
Instagram/psiconversion
'Dont Let EFI Pass You By!'
Your Source for LSX Conversion Parts!
www.psiconversion.com
Ebay Store
Facebook/psiconversion
Instagram/psiconversion
'Dont Let EFI Pass You By!'
#5
TECH Addict
Try putting the other side in and see if you can get it to line up.We had to do this on my buddy's camaro.We spent about an hour trying to get the bolt in put other side in and we were able to get it lined up.
#6
Teching In
Thread Starter
Join Date: Aug 2012
Location: Norway, Europe
Posts: 29
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
The engine is going into a '89 Caprice. Will try some more and take some pictures tomorrow, see if I can figure something out. The clamshells (on the frame) are brand new, so I they're not worn and sagged, I really hope..
How could it be a difference between different adapter plates on whether they work or not with the clamshells? I can't figure out how different plates would make this problem any different, but then again, I have no idea anymore.
How could it be a difference between different adapter plates on whether they work or not with the clamshells? I can't figure out how different plates would make this problem any different, but then again, I have no idea anymore.
#7
I'm not a big fan of Trans-Dapt products even though I'm using them in my swap. You may need to added spacers between the engine and upper mounts or the lower mounts and the frame or a combo of both. The lower mounts may be able to slide up and down or around. I know the metric chassis had a small amount of play in them; I always had to install the mounts with the bolts loose just so I could move them around with the engine installed. One other thing is I believe there are more than one lower mount(s) available and there was a small difference in height.
Trending Topics
#8
TECH Senior Member
iTrader: (12)
Which way is the remaining bolt off ? Is the clam shell hole outside of the frame mount or inside of the frame mount. Picture please.
Imo... it is best to bolt the adapter, engine mount (in your case, the clam shell mount) and the frame mount all together on the engine. Then drop it in and adjust the engine location to where you need it and then mark the frame mount on the cross member. Then remove the engine and drill new hole for the frame mounts or modify them. Yes this will require removing the frame mounts from the cross member and remounting them, and yes it can be a PITA..
Tip. Use weather stripping glue and glue the nut to the washer ( NASCAR lug nut trick). Them use some blue tape to keep the nut/washer in the shocker or wrench while you hold the nut in place while you tighten the frame stand to the cross member. That is how I held them in place going through them little acess holes in the cross member/frame.
But at least you know everything lines up and you have the engine right where you want it (front or back).
Good luck either way you go.
BC
Imo... it is best to bolt the adapter, engine mount (in your case, the clam shell mount) and the frame mount all together on the engine. Then drop it in and adjust the engine location to where you need it and then mark the frame mount on the cross member. Then remove the engine and drill new hole for the frame mounts or modify them. Yes this will require removing the frame mounts from the cross member and remounting them, and yes it can be a PITA..
Tip. Use weather stripping glue and glue the nut to the washer ( NASCAR lug nut trick). Them use some blue tape to keep the nut/washer in the shocker or wrench while you hold the nut in place while you tighten the frame stand to the cross member. That is how I held them in place going through them little acess holes in the cross member/frame.
But at least you know everything lines up and you have the engine right where you want it (front or back).
Good luck either way you go.
BC
Last edited by bczee; 02-27-2013 at 03:54 PM.
#9
Which way is the remaining bolt off ? Is the clam shell hole outside of the frame mount or inside of the frame mount. Picture please.
Imo... it is best to bolt the adapter, engine mount (in you case, the clam shell mount) and the frame mount all together on the engine. Then drop it in and adjust the engine location to where you need it and then mark the frame mount on the cross member. The remove the engine and drill new hole or modify them. Yes this will require removing the frame mounts from the cross member and remounting them, and yes it can be a PITA..
Tip. Use weather stripping glue and glue the nut to the washer ( NASCAR lug nut trick). Them use some blue tape to keep the nut/washer in the shocker or wrench while you hold the nut in place while you tighten the frame stand to the cross member. That is how I held them in place going through them little hacess holes in the cross member/frame.
But at least you know everything lines up and you have the engine right where you want it (front or back).
Good luck either way you go.
BC
Imo... it is best to bolt the adapter, engine mount (in you case, the clam shell mount) and the frame mount all together on the engine. Then drop it in and adjust the engine location to where you need it and then mark the frame mount on the cross member. The remove the engine and drill new hole or modify them. Yes this will require removing the frame mounts from the cross member and remounting them, and yes it can be a PITA..
Tip. Use weather stripping glue and glue the nut to the washer ( NASCAR lug nut trick). Them use some blue tape to keep the nut/washer in the shocker or wrench while you hold the nut in place while you tighten the frame stand to the cross member. That is how I held them in place going through them little hacess holes in the cross member/frame.
But at least you know everything lines up and you have the engine right where you want it (front or back).
Good luck either way you go.
BC
#10
I had a similar problem. Mine was about 1 1/4 inch too wide for the rubber mount. ended up getting 2 buddies to help. one person on each side with a pry bay pushing up on the inner rubber mount to help kinda spread them out and one guy put the last bolt in. Took a little muscle but we got it finally.
#11
TECH Senior Member
iTrader: (12)
I had a similar problem. Mine was about 1 1/4 inch too wide for the rubber mount. ended up getting 2 buddies to help. one person on each side with a pry bay pushing up on the inner rubber mount to help kinda spread them out and one guy put the last bolt in. Took a little muscle but we got it finally.
just a thought...
BC
#12
TECH Apprentice
iTrader: (1)
Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: waverly, ohio
Posts: 315
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I had the same problem with the same mounts. U could grind the back of your clamshell smooth and ditch the spacer and raise the motor up 3/8". I also made my own mounts and drilled bigger holes in my clamshell and mount plates. I also hit the crossmember with the truck oil pan too don't know if your fighting that.
Last edited by darren roar; 02-27-2013 at 08:33 PM.
#14
Naa I'm sure it will be fine. Worse case they wear out and ill deal with it then. I bought new ones and originally tried that but they were even more off.