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They say they won't fit the LS1 style thermostat, but I radiused the recesses and got it to fit no problem, there's plenty of meat in the piece.
I couldn't get the Aerostar straight housing to seal the way I wanted it to.
Last edited by ryanleiker; 05-03-2016 at 09:34 AM.
Just an update, these Viking coilovers are night and day compared to my KYB's... I may end up needing a rear set now as my KYBs in the rear are way too harsh now...
Even on a more rigid setting, these things feel so good to drive. Now I need a quick ratio and a sway bar...
Also, I got these things in 2 days flat from when I ordered them.
I also just ordered a bargain room '68 Camaro tank from Tanks inc, and it's going to be on my porch in less than 30 hours from when I got off the phone with them yesterday...
I can't believe the how quickly shipping has been for my most recent parts...
I got my Viking coilovers in 2 days flat...
Welded up my dual exhaust over the weekend. This was my first exhaust I've welded up, and I was more concerned about it holding together and not leaking than I was with how my welds looked, so try to keep your comments to a minimum about my welding. I got good beads when I wanted them.
I ordered the dual 2.5" kit from Summit for my car. The fitment was almost perfect for a header setup. The tailpipes even fit well with my shock relocation just inside the frame rails when I did my caltracs. I shimmed the tailpipes away from the shocks and leaf springs with some 3/4" wood pieces and once I hung them, I had the perfect amount of space.
Instead of splitting the intermediate pipes to each side of the transmission, I just turned the driver's side toward the passenger and built a merge from my 3.5" downpipe into the dual 2.5" pipes. At this point I need to put two more hangers in the middle of the car, and decide if I want to weld the mufflers on the intermediate pipes (they're clamped for now).
This was a great investment for the money and should quiet down the car a lot.
I only had to buy one extra piece of pipe from the parts store.
I'll get some more pictures when I get my new fuel tank in in the next few days.
Just curious. Those shocks bolt to the stock upper location.
Why the crossmember?
You going to remove the T-bar?
Mounting in front of or after the axle?
I just installed my Strange DA shocks. Will be interesting to figure out what adjustments work best.
What is the price on those? Strange were $500.
Ron
I ended up just removing the t-bar because making a mount with it just overcomplicated things. I had to come up with a sleeve to go into the bushing, but, not a big deal. I did end up mounting them in front of the axle on the inside of the axle. I may have angled them inward a little too much, but I don't think it'll be an issue.
I am pretty concerned with the fitment of the rear sway bar that I'm about to put in because of where the shocks angle down, but I'll just have to see when it shows up.
I have 175lb Landrum mono-leafs. What's good is, they keep feeling better, the stiffer the rebound setting. I am noticing that I currently may have the compression a little soft as I stiffen the rebound. Traction and wheel hop are starting to change as I get the shocks dialed in, which makes me feel better about the amount of control I have over the car and it's suspension.
I was really considering the Strange DAs, but I was informed that they're not very good for handling as opposed to drag racing. I was also finding out, that ,still considering the young age of the Viking company, there was almost nobody that complained about them. I also found a member on here that gave me a really good price on them.
I ended up paying $345 for the pair of rears and $525 for the pair of front coil-overs. For what I've gotten out of them so far, I couldn't be happier with the value.
I figured with the big bars, you are setting up for corner carving.
That's a good price on the shocks.
I went with strange because the better shocks cost considerably more.
I figured with the big bars, you are setting up for corner carving.
That's a good price on the shocks.
I went with strange because the better shocks cost considerably more.
Your car all tuned now?
Ron
Well, it's tuned enough to drive every day... I still need to have it professionally tuned, but I'm not sure when I'll decide to front the money to do that.
Live updating my rear upper shock crossmember install.
First cut for the shock to poke it's head through.
The shelf needs to be 3" above the frame rail deck.
Essentially recreating the DSE crossmember.
Last edited by ryanleiker; 07-17-2015 at 07:20 PM.
Shimming the shocks for clearance away from the exhaust pipes and the inside wall of the frame rails. 1/2" dowels.
When spaced with the shims flush against each frame rail, the shocks both end up 2*-2.5* inward, so something is going right.
Also put that rear sway bar in yesterday. It's an Addco I believe, from Performace Online. This thing should corner on rails.
Last edited by ryanleiker; 07-17-2015 at 09:42 PM.
02-25-2015, 10:59 AM
