1972 LQ4 Turbo Nova
#82
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I'm interested to see how all that comes out too. I'm going to redo my bracket for the R4 compressor, but I built the hot side around the location, so I should still have a bit of freedom to install it.
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Making a lot of encouraging progress lately...
Core support and intercooler painted and bolted back up.
Beaded and constructed radiator hoses from 1-1/4" stainless tubing and various silicone couplers and Gates Powergrip heatshrink clamps.
Built the cold side... used dramatically fewer couplers than I thought I would... lots of leftover bends... for future projects.
Core support and intercooler painted and bolted back up.
Beaded and constructed radiator hoses from 1-1/4" stainless tubing and various silicone couplers and Gates Powergrip heatshrink clamps.
Built the cold side... used dramatically fewer couplers than I thought I would... lots of leftover bends... for future projects.
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They are C6 deep dish "oewheels" wheels. 17x9.5. http://www.oewheelsllc.com/Wheels_3/...5#.VDL0vcco7IU They are my buddy's set that I'm borrowing for test fit. Tire size is 275-40/17's on all corners. The rears fit really well with a 1.5" spacer, but the fronts have 1.75" spacer and they need to be 2". I'm going to run LS1 F-body front and rear brakes, so I'm not sure if this will hit the steering arm or not when I'm finished... I'm really trying to run 275's all the way around.
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On the note about wheels... does anyone have any insight into front ride height after ls swaps? My front end is dramatically higher than it was with the SBC and TH350, which seems counterintuitive with the 4l80e and the turbocharger adding weight. Maybe my bushings are binding, idk... I'll see where it settles.
#88
Are you using a kit for the brakes or what? I saw brp hotrods makes a bracket for the front. I wouldn't make any changes for ride height until the car is all the way built and loaded down, if you put new coil springs in they do seem to settle quite a bit.
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I'm going to get mine from Rich Hoag that sells just the brackets for a good price and then grind down the mounting point to get the bracket parallel to the rotor.
I think I'm going to get all the suspension components I want and then just cut a coil at the very end to put it at the height I want. Then later down the road I'll get some coilovers.
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A guy I work with notched the front subframe to fit 275s up front. Something to think about before you get the entire thing together. And provide a link to this Rich Hoag bracket if you can. I'm going to do something similar with my front brakes.
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A guy I work with notched the front subframe to fit 275s up front. Something to think about before you get the entire thing together. And provide a link to this Rich Hoag bracket if you can. I'm going to do something similar with my front brakes.
Here's the page that talks about them where I got my info.
http://www.pozziracing.com/12_corvet...es_on_fgen.htm
Here's his email:
rwhoag.camaro1@verizon.net
Last edited by ryanleiker; 10-07-2014 at 06:06 PM.
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Nice build and great progress, congrats.
I don't want to come across wrong,but you stated first welds or something to that effect. I'm just making this statement so I don't read something bad down the road. If I was you I would grind the weld on the crossmember pic of the piece of angle to the rectangle tubing down and reweld with the welder heat range turned up. That weld appears to be a cold weld(round and tall bead) and I would hate to see that fail when you get on that beast. Just trying to help man.
I don't want to come across wrong,but you stated first welds or something to that effect. I'm just making this statement so I don't read something bad down the road. If I was you I would grind the weld on the crossmember pic of the piece of angle to the rectangle tubing down and reweld with the welder heat range turned up. That weld appears to be a cold weld(round and tall bead) and I would hate to see that fail when you get on that beast. Just trying to help man.
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Nice build and great progress, congrats.
I don't want to come across wrong,but you stated first welds or something to that effect. I'm just making this statement so I don't read something bad down the road. If I was you I would grind the weld on the crossmember pic of the piece of angle to the rectangle tubing down and reweld with the welder heat range turned up. That weld appears to be a cold weld(round and tall bead) and I would hate to see that fail when you get on that beast. Just trying to help man.
I don't want to come across wrong,but you stated first welds or something to that effect. I'm just making this statement so I don't read something bad down the road. If I was you I would grind the weld on the crossmember pic of the piece of angle to the rectangle tubing down and reweld with the welder heat range turned up. That weld appears to be a cold weld(round and tall bead) and I would hate to see that fail when you get on that beast. Just trying to help man.
I was just getting used to .025 wire and ran out then switched to .035 wire and had to adapt mid-project.
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Thank you for the insight. I need to probably redo a couple of welds on that 'member. Any advice on what type of grinding wheel works best/fastest to grind welds down?
I was just getting used to .025 wire and ran out then switched to .035 wire and had to adapt mid-project.
I was just getting used to .025 wire and ran out then switched to .035 wire and had to adapt mid-project.
And, the .025 is for thin sheetmetal(body panels and such).
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Just remember once you start to weld and the metal gets hot, you can increase your wire speed to keep it from blowing through (cools the puddle down) or dial back your power. Other than that it looks pretty good. Better than my flux core madness I like to do...lol
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Any tips or advice to check before/while I turn this thing on for the first time?
I've got new power steering/fuel system/transmission/radiator-water pump/electrical/gauges/turbo/etc... to worry about...
I've got new power steering/fuel system/transmission/radiator-water pump/electrical/gauges/turbo/etc... to worry about...