Conversions & Swaps LSX Engines in Non-LSX Vehicles
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1972 LQ4 Turbo Nova

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Old 09-24-2014, 03:02 PM
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Project is coming together very nicely. I'm interested to see how you make all the factory type A/C stuff work. Great build thread so far, keep the updates coming!
Old 09-24-2014, 03:18 PM
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Originally Posted by Agent_Orange_Shuvel
Project is coming together very nicely. I'm interested to see how you make all the factory type A/C stuff work. Great build thread so far, keep the updates coming!
I'm interested to see how all that comes out too. I'm going to redo my bracket for the R4 compressor, but I built the hot side around the location, so I should still have a bit of freedom to install it.
Old 10-06-2014, 12:31 PM
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Making a lot of encouraging progress lately...

Core support and intercooler painted and bolted back up.





Beaded and constructed radiator hoses from 1-1/4" stainless tubing and various silicone couplers and Gates Powergrip heatshrink clamps.















Built the cold side... used dramatically fewer couplers than I thought I would... lots of leftover bends... for future projects.


Old 10-06-2014, 02:10 PM
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Great progress! It looks very tidy.

Is that a mock-up wheel/tire on the passenger front? What are the tire & wheel sizes?
Old 10-06-2014, 03:03 PM
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Originally Posted by -TheBandit-
Great progress! It looks very tidy.

Is that a mock-up wheel/tire on the passenger front? What are the tire & wheel sizes?
I'm all about the details.
They are C6 deep dish "oewheels" wheels. 17x9.5. http://www.oewheelsllc.com/Wheels_3/...5#.VDL0vcco7IU They are my buddy's set that I'm borrowing for test fit. Tire size is 275-40/17's on all corners. The rears fit really well with a 1.5" spacer, but the fronts have 1.75" spacer and they need to be 2". I'm going to run LS1 F-body front and rear brakes, so I'm not sure if this will hit the steering arm or not when I'm finished... I'm really trying to run 275's all the way around.
Old 10-06-2014, 03:07 PM
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On the note about wheels... does anyone have any insight into front ride height after ls swaps? My front end is dramatically higher than it was with the SBC and TH350, which seems counterintuitive with the 4l80e and the turbocharger adding weight. Maybe my bushings are binding, idk... I'll see where it settles.
Old 10-07-2014, 07:46 AM
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Feel free to give me your input/opinions or questions, I'm always looking to improve or find out I missed something before it's too late.
Old 10-07-2014, 08:22 AM
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Are you using a kit for the brakes or what? I saw brp hotrods makes a bracket for the front. I wouldn't make any changes for ride height until the car is all the way built and loaded down, if you put new coil springs in they do seem to settle quite a bit.
Old 10-07-2014, 09:29 AM
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Originally Posted by turboventura
Are you using a kit for the brakes or what? I saw brp hotrods makes a bracket for the front. I wouldn't make any changes for ride height until the car is all the way built and loaded down, if you put new coil springs in they do seem to settle quite a bit.
I was looking into the BRP kit, but I'm unsure of the design. I don't really care for all the washers and shims.

I'm going to get mine from Rich Hoag that sells just the brackets for a good price and then grind down the mounting point to get the bracket parallel to the rotor.

I think I'm going to get all the suspension components I want and then just cut a coil at the very end to put it at the height I want. Then later down the road I'll get some coilovers.
Old 10-07-2014, 04:44 PM
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A guy I work with notched the front subframe to fit 275s up front. Something to think about before you get the entire thing together. And provide a link to this Rich Hoag bracket if you can. I'm going to do something similar with my front brakes.
Old 10-07-2014, 05:52 PM
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Originally Posted by hookemdevils22
A guy I work with notched the front subframe to fit 275s up front. Something to think about before you get the entire thing together. And provide a link to this Rich Hoag bracket if you can. I'm going to do something similar with my front brakes.
I wonder what the width and offset are for those wheels he uses.
Here's the page that talks about them where I got my info.
http://www.pozziracing.com/12_corvet...es_on_fgen.htm

Here's his email:
rwhoag.camaro1@verizon.net

Last edited by ryanleiker; 10-07-2014 at 06:06 PM.
Old 10-12-2014, 06:45 PM
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Here's, essentially, the final shot before startup, which should happen in the next few weeks. All I have left is the transmission crossmember.
Old 10-12-2014, 08:20 PM
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Do you think that the length of the BOV vacuum line will be an issue with response?
Old 10-20-2014, 03:48 PM
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This should be the last pictures before I start this thing up...
Here's my first welding project... A new steering wheel and the transmission crossmember.




Old 10-20-2014, 05:38 PM
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Nice build and great progress, congrats.

I don't want to come across wrong,but you stated first welds or something to that effect. I'm just making this statement so I don't read something bad down the road. If I was you I would grind the weld on the crossmember pic of the piece of angle to the rectangle tubing down and reweld with the welder heat range turned up. That weld appears to be a cold weld(round and tall bead) and I would hate to see that fail when you get on that beast. Just trying to help man.
Old 10-20-2014, 07:35 PM
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Originally Posted by KY Nova
Nice build and great progress, congrats.

I don't want to come across wrong,but you stated first welds or something to that effect. I'm just making this statement so I don't read something bad down the road. If I was you I would grind the weld on the crossmember pic of the piece of angle to the rectangle tubing down and reweld with the welder heat range turned up. That weld appears to be a cold weld(round and tall bead) and I would hate to see that fail when you get on that beast. Just trying to help man.
Thank you for the insight. I need to probably redo a couple of welds on that 'member. Any advice on what type of grinding wheel works best/fastest to grind welds down?
I was just getting used to .025 wire and ran out then switched to .035 wire and had to adapt mid-project.
Old 10-20-2014, 08:15 PM
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Originally Posted by ryanleiker
Thank you for the insight. I need to probably redo a couple of welds on that 'member. Any advice on what type of grinding wheel works best/fastest to grind welds down?
I was just getting used to .025 wire and ran out then switched to .035 wire and had to adapt mid-project.
I personally use flapper wheels on my 4.5" grinders. They come in different grits. The lower the number, the coarser the grit(faster cut). Not knowing what welder you are using, look on the inside of the door where you wire spool is and use those settings as a baseline. Practice on a scrap piece. When you have it adjusted correctly, it will have a nice constant sizzle sound. Your weld will be flatter in appearance when it's setup correctly. Post pics of test passes if you want and i'll try to help as much as possible. There is so much to tell, that you might benefit going to something like millers sight and watching videos or even youtube might have some. Practice is your best friend.

And, the .025 is for thin sheetmetal(body panels and such).
Old 10-21-2014, 11:53 AM
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Just remember once you start to weld and the metal gets hot, you can increase your wire speed to keep it from blowing through (cools the puddle down) or dial back your power. Other than that it looks pretty good. Better than my flux core madness I like to do...lol
Old 10-22-2014, 09:17 AM
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Sub'd. This is a great looking build! Keep it up, cant wait to hear it run!!
Old 10-22-2014, 10:08 AM
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Any tips or advice to check before/while I turn this thing on for the first time?

I've got new power steering/fuel system/transmission/radiator-water pump/electrical/gauges/turbo/etc... to worry about...


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