davidl340

So, after lots of reading, can I take my 5.3 truck harness and take the necessary wires from the C2, C100, C152, apply power, ground, etc... as instructed on the lt1swap.com site and after having the computer reprogrammed, have a running standalone setup WITHOUT removing any wires or re-pinning?

I believe this thread indicates this is true, Is this correct?
https://ls1tech.com/forums/conversio...odified-2.html

If I don't care about the looks of the factory harness, nor care about having some extra connectors hidden away, is there any reason to do anything except to the wires from the C2, C100, C152 connectors?

Also, Could I buy the receiving end of the C2, C100, C152 connectors, do all the wiring on that side of the connector instead of cutting them off and not even have to touch my factory wiring harness?

Mike_hawk

I think most people thin out the harness so they can use a smaller fuse block, or so they can reroute the wiring inside the cab or out of the stock location. I'm pretty sure I've seen a video from Agearhead4life on YouTube where he just supplied 12v and ground to the factory fuse block and the vehicle would run. That sounds like the simplest way to get a swap running.

davidl340

I dug around on youtube, saw where he talks about doing it on the ls fest video, but not actually doing it. Will dig some more. I see here http://www.lt1swap.com/underhoodfuseblock.htm I can use the stock fuse block (as big and ugly as it is) to take care of the c2 connector, I wonder if I can find the mating ends of the C100 and C152 anywhere.

BTW, Brandon from lt1swap hasn't returned my email, nor has Bill from BPauto, Is there anyone else who can remove VATS, etc... from my PCM that has a decently fast turnaround for ~$75?

alocker

iTrader: (10)

Sure you could but why would you want to? If you have to troubleshoot something in the future it will be more difficult. You're technically not repinning, you are just removing and it's not difficult. It really can shrink the harness.

dec010974

iTrader: (1)

If I understand you correctly, I did what you're speaking of. basically I supplied 12v+ ignition power to mostly all the pink wires from C2. I made sure I labeled them first, for diagnostic reasons. 12+ power and 12v+Igntion was supplied to the pcm wires. I located other stuff such as fuel pump trigger, electric fan trigger, TCC, MIL control, Tach signal, etc. I tied all my Grounds together, through out the harness and voila, She's Alive. I used a stock, 5.3 harness, that was bought for $50.00 on ebay. it powers my 370 CI lq9/TH400. it can be done. ill post more pics later.

davidl340

dec010974, looks like you did what I was talking about. Thanks for the pics.

Yes, It seems most people thin the harness out. I am not that worried about thinning it if it is only for looks. Not sure if diagnosing something I cut into would be anymore challenging than an untouched harness with some extra unused wires in it.

I may go new if I really care about looks and stick the computer under then dash, but the 'budget' aspect of this 4 door '57 Belair grocery getter starts going out the door then (car won't be worth a $1 more with a thinned or $600 harness I bet).

What would be interesting is if I bought the mating connectors and did the power feeds etc.. on that end and literally not cut a single wire on the harness.

G-Body

iTrader: (4)

Yep, on my first swap I just supplied power to and used the wires that I needed. I taped off the extra connectors and left them hang. Sure it was ugly but at that point no one had really mapped out the truck harnesses, just the f-body info was popular and I was working off of generic chiltons wiring diagrams so I wasn`t really 100% certain what wires I would not need. I drove the car for probably 3 years like that....till I put a rod through the block...then I cleaned the harness up while I had the motor out lol.

For the c100, c152, and if you use the fuse center C1 mating ends I just hit the local pick a part junkyard and cut them out of a truck.

davidl340

So, I splurged on this one, ordered a harness from Bill at BPAutomotive, ya I know it won't make the car worth anymore but its my birthday present to myself, ha.

Stock harness is getting about $160 on ebay, + $75 for a nice looking fuse box (or cheaper) plus my time (hard to come by), that's $235 to get the stocker working.

For an extra $330 I get one that lays out well, new, no surprises, no thinning, computer under dash. We'll see how it pans out.