LM7/NV3500 240SX Coupe swap (Boring build)
07-19-2017, 07:44 PM
#121
On The Tree
Thread Starter
Here we see the S13 in its natural state:
L33/T56 is in and running! The car feels way faster and the T56 is sublime compared to the NV3500.
Ran into a stupid hiccup though - I had my Nismo CLSD equipped R200 rebuilt at a local shop - the pinion bearing was toast. Drove the car about 2 miles with the rebuilt diff and the diff started making HORRIBLE noises. Got it back up on jackstands, and the brand new pinion bearing has about 1/4" of play :/ Taking it in tomorrow for them to deal with. I really wanted to drive the car some more so I threw in my spare VLSD diff and it's running great. I need to get the front of the car back on and tidy up a bunch of wiring and interior stuff but I'm super relieved to have this thing back on the road.
L33/T56 is in and running! The car feels way faster and the T56 is sublime compared to the NV3500.
Ran into a stupid hiccup though - I had my Nismo CLSD equipped R200 rebuilt at a local shop - the pinion bearing was toast. Drove the car about 2 miles with the rebuilt diff and the diff started making HORRIBLE noises. Got it back up on jackstands, and the brand new pinion bearing has about 1/4" of play :/ Taking it in tomorrow for them to deal with. I really wanted to drive the car some more so I threw in my spare VLSD diff and it's running great. I need to get the front of the car back on and tidy up a bunch of wiring and interior stuff but I'm super relieved to have this thing back on the road.
07-24-2017, 11:02 AM
#122
Staging Lane
On your original LM7 how did you do the fuel lines & filter? Did you keep the Nissan OE fuel filter and just run the feed/return lines directly to the truck intake and keep the truck's FPR in place?
07-24-2017, 11:06 AM
#123
On The Tree
Thread Starter
I have a twin turbo Z32 fuel filter (it's a little bigger) and I'm using the stock 240SX lines. I have an in-tank Walbro 255 pump. Pretty easy, and only ~$100.
08-01-2017, 01:33 PM
#124
On The Tree
Thread Starter
Got a PM about the new belt and alternator setup. Figured I'd answer it here for others that get sent here from Google:
My alternator is bolted directly to the block, using the two stock holes that are tapped in the block. I have NO clue why GM did this, but the alternator is the perfect spacing for those holes. Amazing! I'm using washers to space the alternator out appropriately. I meant to get the measurement when I was putting it all back together but I was excited to get it running. I'm running the small case 90s V8 truck alternator, the wiring is the same and they are actually easy to find - barely any 5.3L trucks in the junkyards still have the alternators in them.
The idler near the water pump and alternator is just a 5.3L tensioner that I trimmed down to meet up with the C5 accessories. I will get some more pictures tonight if I can remember.
Hey man loving your build! I actually found you searching for saturn vue steering column swaps into 240sx since its close to my z31. [...]the belt routing combo you have - can you post up another picture or 2 near the idler pulley and the alternator mounting location. I cant tell if you bolted the alternator DIRECTLY to the block using the 2 spots that are there or if you are using the FBody alternator bracket. I also cant tell where the C5 tensioner pulley mounts besides the bottom of the drivers side head. Is that the factory C5 mounting location? And the water pump idler, is that on a bracket when you yank it from the truck engine and where is it bolted onto the head? Also that alternator, is that the bigger case CS244? My turbo plumbing is really tight to the FBody alternator so I dont think I can fit the larger truck alternator there...but I really need more amperage output. The "high ouput" FBody alternators dont put much more out at idle than a stock one. This steering assist column will need some juice at low vehicle speeds and engine rpm. thanks in advance for you feedback.
The idler near the water pump and alternator is just a 5.3L tensioner that I trimmed down to meet up with the C5 accessories. I will get some more pictures tonight if I can remember.
08-10-2017, 08:54 AM
#125
On The Tree
Thread Starter
Skidplate The Hooker swap parts make the oil pan and filter sit below the front subframe, and I've killed a couple of truck oil filters from hitting road debris. I converted to a Corvette filter but the pan is still much too vulnerable. I used 1.5mm plate steel so its heavy (17#), but it beats being stranded on the side of the road and possibly damaging the engine. The front bolts to the T/C rod brackets under the rad core support and on the inside where there is a stock weld nut. It bolts in the back on the front subframe.
09-13-2017, 09:29 AM
#127
On The Tree
Thread Starter
Finally got the rear mount battery set up. Also added a kill switch in the cabin and removed some random interior pieces that I didn't need. After Autocross Nationals, my wife wants me to make this a proper XP car, so should have some exciting things coming soon.
09-13-2017, 01:05 PM
#128
Staging Lane
Nice skid plate. I was planning on building one of these, but my sikky pan sits quite a bit higher! Does AutoX tech not require you to have the battery enclosed?
09-13-2017, 01:07 PM
#129
On The Tree
Thread Starter
Can't be bare in the passenger compartment - this is in the trunk separated by the back seat. I have plenty of room for a battery box though if that becomes an issue.
09-22-2017, 09:54 AM
#131
On The Tree
Thread Starter
First track day with the new drivetrain was a success! Ran out of brake pads after two sessions so I had to call it early, but the car felt great.
My wagon wheels currently have some RS3s from the 2015 Autocross season. They're super ungrippy and was making the car understeer, but I still was able to put down a 132.5. I'd like to get some new tires on there and see what it will do.
www.youtube.com/watch?v=Pb-c_F4dGAs
***edit***
It was about time! New pads and SPL T/C rods on.
I missed this part, I was getting ready for the track day:
Installed my LS6 intake. Couldn't find a LS1 fuel rail that wasn't expensive, so I bought the Jeg's billet rail. I went with -6AN to 3/8 barbs off the back so I can keep my returned system (just so I didn't have to change anything).
I had to go back to the 90* tube due to the new TB location, but it seemed to do fine at the track. Looking forward to running a stock hood at some point.
My wagon wheels currently have some RS3s from the 2015 Autocross season. They're super ungrippy and was making the car understeer, but I still was able to put down a 132.5. I'd like to get some new tires on there and see what it will do.
www.youtube.com/watch?v=Pb-c_F4dGAs
***edit***
It was about time! New pads and SPL T/C rods on.
I missed this part, I was getting ready for the track day:
Installed my LS6 intake. Couldn't find a LS1 fuel rail that wasn't expensive, so I bought the Jeg's billet rail. I went with -6AN to 3/8 barbs off the back so I can keep my returned system (just so I didn't have to change anything).
I had to go back to the 90* tube due to the new TB location, but it seemed to do fine at the track. Looking forward to running a stock hood at some point.
Last edited by FlatBlack; 09-26-2017 at 10:19 AM.
11-01-2017, 11:15 AM
#132
On The Tree
Thread Starter
I love installing fun parts. Got some VooDoo13 billet RUCAs, Z32 aluminum knuckles and I'm using ResponseType brackets to use my S13 strut housing with them. The brackets are also supposed to eliminate the bind that happens when using Z32 lower perches on the S13 housings. As a nice added bonus with the RT bracket - I was topped out on the spring collars, so the extra height actually gives me some options for a wider/taller wheel if I need it.
Last edited by FlatBlack; 11-01-2017 at 11:25 AM.
11-02-2017, 01:35 PM
#134
On The Tree
Thread Starter
03-13-2018, 07:21 PM
#136
Teching In
Join Date: Feb 2017
Location: Warsaw, Indiana
Posts: 13
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
digging into the past a little bit. I am Piecing together a LM4/NV3500 combo for my 86 FC3S RX7. Looks like I have the same NV you had with the shifter location almost exactly in the middle of the transmission. How did you remote shifter turn out? Got any pics? Also, is there any way to adapt the factory clutch line to that external slave? Did you have any problems with the starter being close to the slave? Any reason I couldn't use a 5.7 GTO Clutch and flywheel combo? Thank you for your insite.
03-14-2018, 09:42 AM
#137
On The Tree
Thread Starter
digging into the past a little bit. I am Piecing together a LM4/NV3500 combo for my 86 FC3S RX7. Looks like I have the same NV you had with the shifter location almost exactly in the middle of the transmission. How did you remote shifter turn out? Got any pics? Also, is there any way to adapt the factory clutch line to that external slave? Did you have any problems with the starter being close to the slave? Any reason I couldn't use a 5.7 GTO Clutch and flywheel combo? Thank you for your insight.
The NV3500 has an internal slave cylinder like the T56. Luckily, the cheap Wilwood master cylinder and a T56 remote bleeder setup will work with the NV too, and it's pretty inexpensive to set up.
The remote shifter I made was never that good, but if you're interested I can sell you the C5 shifter and bracket I made for mine ($60 shipped). I have a T56 now.
It's all the same re: clutch and flywheel. I'm using a Corvette Fidanza and Camaro clutch on my L33. Just remember you can't use the automatic flexplate bolts, they are too shallow. Get the ARP flywheel bolts.
The starter is on the other side of the transmission than the clutch stuff, no worries there (hopefully you got the Chevy NV3500!)
Here's a post from this thread about the clutch lines.
https://ls1tech.com/forums/conversio...l#post19071697
I couldn't find a good pic of the rmote shifter, but version 1 was just the shifter facing 90* towards the driver instead of it standing vertically.
03-14-2018, 06:32 PM
#138
Teching In
Join Date: Feb 2017
Location: Warsaw, Indiana
Posts: 13
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Hey there - nice find on the aluminum block! Kind of hard to come by.
The NV3500 has an internal slave cylinder like the T56. Luckily, the cheap Wilwood master cylinder and a T56 remote bleeder setup will work with the NV too, and it's pretty inexpensive to set up.
The remote shifter I made was never that good, but if you're interested I can sell you the C5 shifter and bracket I made for mine ($60 shipped). I have a T56 now.
It's all the same re: clutch and flywheel. I'm using a Corvette Fidanza and Camaro clutch on my L33. Just remember you can't use the automatic flexplate bolts, they are too shallow. Get the ARP flywheel bolts.
The starter is on the other side of the transmission than the clutch stuff, no worries there (hopefully you got the Chevy NV3500!)
Here's a post from this thread about the clutch lines.
https://ls1tech.com/forums/conversio...l#post19071697
I couldn't find a good pic of the rmote shifter, but version 1 was just the shifter facing 90* towards the driver instead of it standing vertically.
The NV3500 has an internal slave cylinder like the T56. Luckily, the cheap Wilwood master cylinder and a T56 remote bleeder setup will work with the NV too, and it's pretty inexpensive to set up.
The remote shifter I made was never that good, but if you're interested I can sell you the C5 shifter and bracket I made for mine ($60 shipped). I have a T56 now.
It's all the same re: clutch and flywheel. I'm using a Corvette Fidanza and Camaro clutch on my L33. Just remember you can't use the automatic flexplate bolts, they are too shallow. Get the ARP flywheel bolts.
The starter is on the other side of the transmission than the clutch stuff, no worries there (hopefully you got the Chevy NV3500!)
Here's a post from this thread about the clutch lines.
https://ls1tech.com/forums/conversio...l#post19071697
I couldn't find a good pic of the rmote shifter, but version 1 was just the shifter facing 90* towards the driver instead of it standing vertically.
03-19-2018, 11:20 AM
#139
On The Tree
Thread Starter
Hey thanks for such a quick response!!! I have a couple questions if you dont mind. Regarding that Wilwood master cylinder: which one would I need? Do you have a link? Thankfully yes, it is the GM NV3500. Came out of a 93 C1500 work truck with a 4.3 V6. My other question is regarding the clutch. You said I can use A LS1/5.7L setup, but my problem is that my input shaft is that weird 10-spline :-( Is that something I could change out for the 26-spline like a LS1 has? Or is there a specific clutch you'd recommend? I would like to run a lightweight flywheel and "stage 3" style clutch. Lastly, do you have a pic of your C5 remote shifter you're talking about selling? I am curious and probably interested if its what I'm thinking its . Thank you and I appreciate it greatly!!!
There are pictures of the C5 shifter earlier in this thread too
if you can't find them (damn photobucket), hit me up in the PMs and I'll dig it out of the shed to get a picture.*edit* yep, the part numbers are in the first post of this thread
Here's the Wilwood Master cylinder part, I don't know that I called it out specifically but it's a very common part:
https://www.speedwaymotors.com/Wilwo...Bore,8567.html
