If you're looking for anything interesting in this thread, I doubt you'll find it.

Just doing a 5.3L/NV3500 install for as cheaply as possible using good parts. The engine is in the car and running, set it in there to wire everything up, but I'll need to pull it once more to put in the ARP flywheel bolts.

I'm going to list the parts and everything I'm using mainly for my reference, but if you have any questions feel free to ask.

I was originally going to tear up my Firebird and use the LS1/T56 but I'm keeping the car to run in the newly created STP autocross class. A guy asked to buy the engine out of the 240SX (since I had it for sale) so I had to find a replacement engine. Got a fully dressed LM7, and then found a NV3500 5-speed out of a 1996 Silverado after my friend Ed Malle told me about the transmission. GM started using the NV3500 in the early 90s but they also used it on the Gen IIIs behind the 4.8L (LR4). I got a brand new flywheel for $60, and the transmission came with a very low miles clutch. I also got the driveshaft which almost fit, but I’m going to have Driveshaft Specialtist make me an aluminum 3”.

The gearing is kind of crazy on this transmission, but this is just a car for fun, I might try and track down a T56 later if I hate it.

Engine/trans conversion mounts are from Hooker headers, using Creative Steel motor mounts
Canton GTO race pan (Part # 074-15-276), no need for sway bar relocation or subframe cuts
Spin-on filter conversion for the Canton pan (Part #22-631 The Hooker kit doesn’t list this)
NV3500 5 speed trans
NFW1050 Flywheel, Centerforce 43001 pilot bearing, stock internal slave cylinder
Rigid Racing conversion plate for Wilwood master clutch slave, SS/AN lines and adapter for internal slave
Stock truck fuse block and ECU (Only 3 wires to run the car, VATS needs to be disabled)
Stock truck intake/accessories (hood is going to be fun to make)
Stock 240SX fuel pump, ran lines to truck fuel rail
1996 XE Nissan Hardbody truck rear driveshaft flange - comes with 1310 size serviceable U-Joints that bolts up to short nose R200

Left to do:
Fabricate remote shifter for trans - the NV’s shifter is ~13” forward of the T56/240SX location
Finish transmission parts mods
(Done) Assemble all the Power Steering conversion parts (going from the rack to -6AN lines)
(Done) Order S13/LS1 Hooker headers

 

I've been thinking about using the nv3500 in my s10. I think the close ratio gearbox from the light duty trucks, with the 3.45:1 first gear would probably be more desirable than the wide spread gearbox from the heavy duty trucks with the 4.0:1 first gear. Let me know how you like it.

Smart choice keeping the truck intake, even though you have to modify the hood.

You're a cheap cam and a good tune away from having a damn fun little car.

 

Nice dude where about in ATX? Been trying to link up with local S-chassis people. I'm just south of downtown.

Looks like a fun build.

 

I live in Kyle, feel free to hit me up! I am pretty involved with the local autocross club, you should come out some time. We're racing at SAR this Sunday, I'll be in the Firebird

 

First time I've seen that transmission used. Any idea on how much power they can take? How is the clutch and slave compared to a t56?

 

They're rated at 350TQ, which is fine for me as this engine will be pretty much stock. I may add a cam later just for some lope, but still not sure. These came in S10s, so there is a lot of information on their forums. The NV also uses an internal slave cylinder like the T56, so if it breaks or I get tired of the short gears, I can just find a T56 and drop it in place. ( I'll have to shorten the driveshaft though)

 

What year is the LM7? Also not sure how concerned you are about heat transfer into the engine cabin but I would recommend some heat barrier on the engine side of the fire wall. My Zenki doesn't have it and I am already regretting it. Mine is more of a weekend fun car but it still heats up the floor and interior noticeably during regular driving can't imagine it being any better at an event.

 

Engine came out of a 1999, it's cable throttle. I'll look into the heat shield, I think the stage rally guys use reflective gold tape?

Someone crossed the road in front of me at the last minute while I was riding my motorcycle on Sunday. I broke my left arm in 5 places and my right thumb is fractured, so the project is on hold until I'm able to use my arms again :/

 

If you can type that, then you can wrench on your car. Lol.

Shitty deal, man. I'm glad you weren't hurt any worse.

 

I have used the regular (not gold) heat reflective material on the fire wall and it's worked well. Don't plan to pull the engine out anytime soon so for now I am gonna install Dynamat on the interior in hopes it will help for now.

Geez dude I hope you are ok.

 

thank god you are alive. I wish you a speedy recovery.

 

Thanks for the thoughts!

The broken arm has set me back a bit but I’ve almost got all the parts left for the car to be road ready.
Looks like the truck accessories are going to work, they just barely miss my e-fans. I plan to move to an aluminum block and car accessories at some point, but I want to show that it can be done with a cheap truck setup. I also bought some cheap C5 LS1 manifolds. Going to flip them just to do a test drive, its ghetto as hell but it wont have a hood either, so whatever. They aren’t cast so I might be able to weld them up to go under the car.

Got my Power steering conversion set up, the rack fittings are M16x1.5 (pressure) and M14x1.5 (return) to -6 AN line. Running a -6AN to barb fitting on the return since the return line is welded onto the pump. The clutch conversion can be pieced together with parts from Summit, the S10 guys do this conversion often and its well documented. The Wilwood Master Cylinder is $45 and the lines and fittings are another 50 or so. Rigid Racing makes a $16 adapter to mount the Wilwood Master in th S-chassis. The internal slave is the same setup as a T56 so all of the parts should interchange. I bought the Speedway external slave cylinder bleeder setup, you can get any length up to 48”.

Good threads for details on the Wilwood clutch master swap:
http://www.s10forum.com/forum/f143/c...cement-364171/
http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=676011

Removed the dash and cut the hole in the trans tunnel for the NV3500 shifter. It looks absolutely ridiculous but it will work for the initial drive. I’ll be making a remote shifter setup once its complete.



My engine has a cable throttle body. The original 240SX cable reaches, but the bracket that holds the truck’s cables is 2” too short. I went to Lowes and got a $8 piece of 2”x3’ weld steel (2mm thick) and extended the truck bracket. Works beautifully and I have room to adjust on the 240SX cable.



I’m dropping off the NV3500 yoke and Hardbody diff flange today so the driveshaft shop can make my custom driveshaft. My driveshaft tube ended up being 44 and 5/16” from the center of each U-joint cap, but you need to measure the length of your driveshaft while making sure your engine and diff are within 0.5* angle of each other.

 

Parts!!!

Got my driveshaft in yesterday. Can't talk up Driveshaft Specialties enough. Dropped my yoke/flange off on Monday, they had the thing built in less than 48 hours. 3" 6061 aluminum shaft with heavy duty Spicer joints, $340 after tax. Just really impressed with the part for the money.



Also got my Wilwood clutch parts and Power Steering conversion fittings.

http://i254.photobucket.com/albums/h...2_230508_1.jpg

http://i254.photobucket.com/albums/h...202_225614.jpg

http://i254.photobucket.com/albums/h...202_225745.jpg

The C5 manifolds need modification. facing down, they hit the K-member, but flipped up the EGR port hits 3 of the spark plugs. I hacked the downtube off the manifolds just to get it on the car, but I'm not sure it's worth cutting/welding up for just a temporary install.

http://i254.photobucket.com/albums/h...202_230319.jpg

http://i254.photobucket.com/albums/h...202_230308.jpg

 

Maybe you can try other factory manifolds. Always curious if the C6 non-Z06 will work with the Hooker mounts...

https://ls1tech.com/forums/conversio...manifolds.html

 

What about truck manifolds? Can be had for cheap and the outlets face the rear.

 

I have a set, they came with the engine but the driver's side hits the steering rack. The passenger side is unsurprisingly very roomy.

I am a huge nerd and I bolted up the driveshaft and started it in gear just to watch the rear wheels spin under V8 power (clutch slave isn't hooked up). Can't wait to drive this thing!!

 

Ah that sucks thought they would be a sure fit. I have seen someone use JA headers C5 Corvette Headers with a 1 and 5/8" piping and 2" collector outlet. Cheaper than Sikky, Hooker, or FR but will take some additional welding to make them work.

https://ls1tech.com/forums/conversio...-beware-6.html

 

My friend came over Saturday and disabled VATS with HPTuners, really exciting to hear it idle and get to rev it finally.

Pulled the engine last night so I can install the ARP flywheel bolts and the rest of the clutch stuff. I'm having an "install party" on the 19th so hopefully everything will be ready by then.

 

Awesome work man. Can't wait till you get her running on the road.

As a side note my S14 Zenki-LS1 is for sale or trade so if you know anyone that wants her look for my post in the vehicle classifieds.

 

This is a pretty boring update but very important if you're using the NV trans on a Gen III. I ordered a LR4 pilot bearing (The sealed roller bearing type, like what Subarus use) assuming that it would work since it uses a NV3500. I guess the OD of the outer ring of the 4.8 crank is smaller than the 5.3 crank - the OD of the LR4 bearing is 42.00mm (1.654") but the OD of my 5.3 crank is 42.35mm (1.666") If you look in the first picture, you can see the bearing sitting loose with quite a bit of room. I didn't find any information about a different/larger pilot bearing so I looked into a needle type bearing that would go in the smaller crank recess.

Measured the OD of the NV3500 input shaft and it is 15.4mm (0.609"), and apparent the T56 has a 15.0mm (0.590") OD. I looked up the part on Oreilly's site, and there are two options - a Dorman (Part#690-057) and a Centerforce (Part #43001). Luckily they list ID and OD for each part - both have an OD of 1.095", and the Dorman is a 0.593" ID while the Centerforce has a larger 0.610" inside diameter. I measured the inner recess on my LM7 crank and it is 1.095"









Ordered the Centerforce bearing today, hopefully that all works out. Got the ARP flywheel bolts on last night and took the internal slave cylinder out for the AN line conversion. Had a friend come over Sunday night to help me pull the engine.