Chandvogt

Thanks. Duel 3000cfm fans hope to cool the beast!

John B

iTrader: (10)

I'd also be looking at additional Intercooler help for the SC.

quazimoto88

Pretty sure this is your car.
Is there anyway we can get a detailed parts list for this swap? I would love to do this. Thanks in advance

Toddoky

Nice work OP. As a general note of information to those interested in doing this swap, the engine bracket mounting bosses on the LT1/LT4 engines have a 3/8" greater stand-off height, on either side, from the center line of the engine than the mounting bosses on the LS engines do. This makes achieving a low installed engine height even more difficult than it has been with LS engines, when using flat swap plates with the old-school Chevy mounts and the factory frame stands. This discovery was made recently when we overlayed the LS and LT engine models in our CAD system.

rjb2968

Does the LT4 have any sort of variable valve timing??? If so does that mess with the tuning process since I'm assuming you're taking out the cats

Jimbo1367

Yes. Vvt

jketron

I'm going to be installing a LT4 with a 4L85E in a 1970 Chevelle and would love to pick your brain. I will be doing a second install into a 1970 Camaro as well, both with the same setups

Project GatTagO

iTrader: (7)

Holley will soon have a swap pan for the Gen V engines that will allow easier swapping into older cars. It's based on the 302-2 pan geometry but for Gen V engines. I'm sure swap kits are not far behind.

Andrew

jketron

I may do the dry sump model and that will eliminate the pan issue.

Project GatTagO

iTrader: (7)

From what I've seen the stock dry sump pan is pretty big. Similar to a LS7 dry sump pan, which definitely won't fit an A body without serious frame modifications.

Andrew

71buickfreak

The dry sump pan is quite large, you will need an aftermarket pan or mod the crossmember.

jketron

I was thinking the wet sump pan was huge. What pan options are there for both wet or dry sump. I'd like to not modify the frame at all.

jketron

Moroson 20155 oil pan may be a solution to the oil pan fitment on a wetsump setup.

Michael Yount

iTrader: (1)

Break in - contemporary engine/low tension rings makes it easy. Check to sure no leaks, no untoward noises, pressures/temps look ok. Try not to let it idle for extended periods - drive it. During the first 20-30 minute drive as many times as you can - accelerate up to 3500-5000 rpm, and then close the throttle for a "hard" deceleration....that will help seat the rings. That's it. Drive the car. I like to do an early oil/filter change at 500-1000 miles and cut the filter open.

71buickfreak

the holley pan looms very promising. Brp has one too, have not seen pricing on either. I used the stoc wetsump in my GS, modded the frame, there was no pan available at the time.

baconfat

where did you mount the oil canister?

Chandvogt

I mounted it in the front right corner. In order to make more room I relocated the battery to the trunk and used the petersons ls7 dry sump tank. It actually fit pretty good

Jimbo1367

More info please. What are your thoughts? I do take it you have it broke-in all ready.

Chandvogt

Yes I have it broke in. The motor has very good street manners but when given some foot all hell breaks loose! It's really exiting to drive and the screaming sound really turns heads around here.
I've been thinking about putting the oversized drive pully on it and getting a good tune for it.
In two weeks my dad and I will be going to the drag strip and will see what it can do. Should be interesting

1964SS

iTrader: (1)

Awesome!