OEF14vette

Hello, so i am swapping a 5.3 with a truck alternator into a 74 corvette. My question is how to properly hook my wiring up the original SBC wiring had the Two blade connector with a red wire and a white wire along with a ground (black) ring terminal and a positive (red) ring terminal. My new MS3Pro harness has the connector for the truck alternator with one brown wire and I assume I just hook my Red positive wire that is in the car to the stud on the truck alternator. I am just wondering how to get this all to work together. I have done searches but nothing seems to cover exactly what I have. Any help is much appreciated thank you.

garys 68

iTrader: (1)

The alternator is controlled by the ecu. There's no need for the 2 small excitation/sensor wires.
Just plug in the harness connector and your heavy pos/neg cables and your good.

OEF14vette

Thank you Garys68 that makes complete sense. I just wanted the reassurance before I did it. My alternator only has a stud for the positive so the ground that was on the old alternator would I just hook it to chassis ground? Thanks again

garys 68

iTrader: (1)

Any bolt on the block will work. You need it grounded to the alternator in some way. Your chassis ground is from the battery in the rear compartment to the frame.

OEF14vette

Okay, I will connect it to the block. Thanks again for the help! Much appreciated

Project GatTagO

iTrader: (7)

The alternator has 4 pins. The ECU is connected to the L terminal, and I would also suggest adding a pin to the S terminal and connecting that to your main power distribution point. This gives the alternator feedback regarding the overall system load and it will adjust accordingly. The S terminal is not required, but I've done it both ways and it works better when it's connected as I described. The terminals for the alternator connector are MetriPack 150 series.

Andrew

OEF14vette

Thank you for the advice and info I will definitely do that and connect pin S. I appreciate everyone's feedback on this.

OEF14vette

For the metripack pins is a special tool required? And where do you recommend buying them? If I have to order online Thad fine just prefer local parts stores sometimes. Thanks

slocaddy

I'm just getting into/learning about metripac connecters, and unless you happen to have a vendor that specializes automotive eletrical, don't waste you time going to local parts stores, they will look at you like you have 3 heads.
Yes there is a special tool, it's about 30 bucks, just bought one, the ratcheting one is alot more. Just look up metripac kit on ebay and let you head commence to spinning lol

Project GatTagO

iTrader: (7)

I get a lot of that stuff from Waytek wire. They have a good website with a lot of pictures.

Andrew

OEF14vette

For the metripacs can they be "taken apart" a few times or are they fragile once put together? I would be doing this on my MS3Pro harness and would hate to break the connector. Thanks guys good info!

Pocket

iTrader: (22)

Just be careful and they come apart pretty easily. Old stuff can get brittle and break, but newer stuff is normally elastic enough for multiple ventures

You need a terminal release tool. This can be any sort of small pointy apparatus, paperclip or even the actual green handled tool

Also, for the alt; metripack connectors do not have the classic SLT terminals for the alt. now they are A,B,C,D because the connector is not unique to alts
A Not used
B PCM control or dummy light/resistance wire for non-PCM controlled apps
C Field duty reference to PCM optional
D 12v battery for corvette style alts only. It will burn up truck/Fbody alts

A few other less common alts follow a different path, you'll have to look them up individually. These are on CTS-V's V1/V2, GTO's, Camaro LS3/L99/LSA, any of the Holden port's. Some of these operate similarly to the more common LS alts, but others are PWM and need to be modified by an alt shop to work in a more traditional method when used in a swap