AAIIIC

iTrader: (19)

Interesting, I've never seen that discussed before. What was actually involved in swapping out that bearing?

TxFireman1972

iTrader: (8)

Not much to it really. Use a steering wheel puller to pull the wheel, remove clock spring, plate, etc, to get to the bearing. Remove c-clip, then pry the bearing out with a small screwdriver. Several good write ups out there.

AAIIIC

iTrader: (19)

Roger that, thanks.

TxFireman1972

iTrader: (8)

Finally got around to taking it in to have my subframe connectors welded in. I bought the Maximum Motorsports full length ones. I also bought the plates that Wolfe makes that you weld on the bottom of the lower torque boxes that box them in solid. Had them all welded up and then painted them satin black.



Front end of SFC



Middle



Seat Bracket



Rear of SFC and plate that boxes in the torque box



I had already installed Wild Rides torque box reinforcements a while back. Went ahead and had him weld them up



And then painted them




Made a big difference. Really stiffened the car up. Its usually one of the first things I do when I get a new Mustang. Just kept getting put off this time for some reason.

LSVT

Just wanted to start off by saying I love the build!! I just joined and found this thread. I REALLY wish I would have seen this a few months ago! I have been doing an almost identical swap on my 95 Cobra for the past few months and this info sure would have been handy. And I mean identical! I had to grind my clutch fork from hitting the tunnel and beat the heck out of my headers to clear my dirty dingo swap mounts. That being said how did you get the Holley HP to trigger the fuel pump? Also did you use factory fuel pump wiring or relay?

TxFireman1972

iTrader: (8)

Thanks, do you have a build thread?

As far as the Holley.....

It has a fuel pump trigger wire (green) that comes out of the harness that provides a 12v+ to trigger the fuel pump relay. I have the Cobra tank with twin Walbro 255's, so I also have another wire coming from the I/O harness on my Holley that triggers the second fuel pump. You can set it to come on however you want. Rpm based, certain boost level, fuel psi, or what ever. I didn't use any of the factory fuel pump wiring. My battery is in the trunk, and I made a relay board just for my fuel pumps. Has its own fuse box, and relays. It mounts to the side of my battery box. It's a redundant system so each fuel pump has two relays. That way, even if you had a relay go bad your pump won't stop working.





This is not a finished picture, but when I was working on it

TxFireman1972

iTrader: (8)

Time to get some AC in the car before summer kicks in full blast. I wont use all of this, but I got a good deal on everything, and it came off of a running Camaro SS. So I scooped it all up.



Also grabbed a dryer that has the line pointing towards the front of the car instead of running across the firewall towards the drivers side like the stock one did.

TxFireman1972

iTrader: (8)

Still waiting on some parts for the AC install. Hoping they will be here today. Between my schedule and the rain, I haven't been driving it much lately. I did take it out the other day after the rain stopped, for some data logging.


I added a virtual switch to one of my digital dash screens to activate data logging. You can set it up to automatically datalog, but sometimes its nice to have a switch to activate it.

TxFireman1972

iTrader: (8)

Grabbed a set of spark plug heat sleeves the other day when I saw them on sale on Amazon.









Got some more work done on the AC. I started out trying to adapt the LS AC lines. I just didnt like how it was going so I decided to make all new lines. Ordered all of my fittings and the hose I needed.



I went to a few places locally and just wasnt having much luck so I decided to just order a hose crimp kit and do it myself.



The tool work great and makes good looking crimps.



I have one fitting that needed to be welded on the Dryer, and one that needed to welded on the condenser. So I dropped them off to have them welded up.

Here is the fitting on the dryer



Here is the one on the condenser



I need to get those picked back up so I can get my hoses measured and finish crimping the fittings on.

I also ordered a billet adapter block that bolts to the back of the compressor that makes it easier to run the hoses.



Looks like this on the compressor





Tried a couple of belts and found the right one



So once I get the dryer and condenser back I can finish up my hoses, get everything put on, and should be ready to have a vacuum pulled and charge it up!

Nali6.2

that's awesome that you got ac in there lol

AFTER HOURS MOTORSP

iTrader: (6)

Who makes that crimper set

TxFireman1972

iTrader: (8)

Almost lol. It's not an option in Texas! Lol


http://www.toolpan.com/Mastercool-71...per-_p_16.html

mustang2xvt

iTrader: (2)

What's the part number of that billet ac adapter and where did you buy all your ac fittings and hose?

TxFireman1972

iTrader: (8)

Adapter:

http://www.hawksmotorsports.com/lsx-...apter-fitting/

All of my fittings came from this EBay seller


http://stores.ebay.com/ne1acfittings

mustang2xvt

iTrader: (2)

Thank you sir! Btw did you keep your stock a arms when you swapped over to the aje k member?

TxFireman1972

iTrader: (8)

Yes I kept stock A-arms. New bushings and SN95 ball joints

Stampede4ever

Those are not bad prices at all!!! Do you still have the front sway bar?

Thanks.

TxFireman1972

iTrader: (8)

It's off right now, I need to make some spacers about 3/4" tall to space it away from the compressor. But it will be going back on

mustang2xvt

iTrader: (2)

The ball joints on the aje arms will not work with 94/95 spindles and is the reason you stayed with stock arms?

TxFireman1972

iTrader: (8)

No, I already had stock arms that I had just put new bushings and ball joints in. So I used them