new edge Mustang swap with factory gauges
#1
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new edge Mustang swap with factory gauges
Anyone have working factory 99-2004 Mustang gauges? I think I have a solution, but I want to see if anyone has actually done it. I know I can use f body gauges, but I want the OEM look. Let me know, I have a 2000GT, with a rod knocking 4.6, engine and trans are out. Have a 4.8/4l60e going in. Just going to be a cam/headers swap. Trying to keep it as stock appearing s possible.
#3
This is from one of the LS Mustang groups.
To keep the factory gauges you need to keep the 4.6 PCM in the car. You are going to install the sensors from the 4.6 in the corresponding location on the LS engine. If staying fuel injected LS you have to use the passenger head and tap for the ford sender for water temp. Oil can be either rear of the block, or behind power steering pump. There is a hex head plug to remove. strip out what you dont need from the mustang harness and keep the sender wiring. gauges will work. For speedo, you will need a Dakota Digital SIG-5 convertor box. You are going to use the 2 VSS wires from the tail shaft on the trans to the box output, then from the PCM (red pin 50) to the input on the DD box (just read the instructions..) This will get the speedo working. On the ford PCM cut the white/pink wire at Pin 48 (or whatever color it is) and connect that to red pin 10 on the LS PCM. Volt and fuel will work regardless. This will retain all factory gauges, odometer. If you are really crafty, you can also get the cruise control to work... PCM is getting all the signals it needs to enable it....
To keep the factory gauges you need to keep the 4.6 PCM in the car. You are going to install the sensors from the 4.6 in the corresponding location on the LS engine. If staying fuel injected LS you have to use the passenger head and tap for the ford sender for water temp. Oil can be either rear of the block, or behind power steering pump. There is a hex head plug to remove. strip out what you dont need from the mustang harness and keep the sender wiring. gauges will work. For speedo, you will need a Dakota Digital SIG-5 convertor box. You are going to use the 2 VSS wires from the tail shaft on the trans to the box output, then from the PCM (red pin 50) to the input on the DD box (just read the instructions..) This will get the speedo working. On the ford PCM cut the white/pink wire at Pin 48 (or whatever color it is) and connect that to red pin 10 on the LS PCM. Volt and fuel will work regardless. This will retain all factory gauges, odometer. If you are really crafty, you can also get the cruise control to work... PCM is getting all the signals it needs to enable it....
#4
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This is from one of the LS Mustang groups.
To keep the factory gauges you need to keep the 4.6 PCM in the car. You are going to install the sensors from the 4.6 in the corresponding location on the LS engine. If staying fuel injected LS you have to use the passenger head and tap for the ford sender for water temp. Oil can be either rear of the block, or behind power steering pump. There is a hex head plug to remove. strip out what you dont need from the mustang harness and keep the sender wiring. gauges will work. For speedo, you will need a Dakota Digital SIG-5 convertor box. You are going to use the 2 VSS wires from the tail shaft on the trans to the box output, then from the PCM (red pin 50) to the input on the DD box (just read the instructions..) This will get the speedo working. On the ford PCM cut the white/pink wire at Pin 48 (or whatever color it is) and connect that to red pin 10 on the LS PCM. Volt and fuel will work regardless. This will retain all factory gauges, odometer. If you are really crafty, you can also get the cruise control to work... PCM is getting all the signals it needs to enable it....
To keep the factory gauges you need to keep the 4.6 PCM in the car. You are going to install the sensors from the 4.6 in the corresponding location on the LS engine. If staying fuel injected LS you have to use the passenger head and tap for the ford sender for water temp. Oil can be either rear of the block, or behind power steering pump. There is a hex head plug to remove. strip out what you dont need from the mustang harness and keep the sender wiring. gauges will work. For speedo, you will need a Dakota Digital SIG-5 convertor box. You are going to use the 2 VSS wires from the tail shaft on the trans to the box output, then from the PCM (red pin 50) to the input on the DD box (just read the instructions..) This will get the speedo working. On the ford PCM cut the white/pink wire at Pin 48 (or whatever color it is) and connect that to red pin 10 on the LS PCM. Volt and fuel will work regardless. This will retain all factory gauges, odometer. If you are really crafty, you can also get the cruise control to work... PCM is getting all the signals it needs to enable it....
The plugs are different on the 1994-1998 to the 1999-2004. But most of the colors are the same. The airbag module does not need anything from the EEC5. Cruise needs a speed signal 8k ppm. ABS I am removing. The tach will get a signal from the GM ECM that was converted to 8 cyl in the GM programming. The speedo signal from the GM ECM will go through a Dakota Digital SIG-5, converting it to 8k ppm and go to the cruise and speedo.
I am using a cluster from a 1997 Cobra. I will use the Ford temp and oil pressure senders.
I removed everything from under the passenger side fender, CCRM, harness, EEC5, some emission valve thing.
The GM ECM fits where the EEC5 was. I will add photos later.....
#5
Anyone have working factory 99-2004 Mustang gauges? I think I have a solution, but I want to see if anyone has actually done it. I know I can use f body gauges, but I want the OEM look. Let me know, I have a 2000GT, with a rod knocking 4.6, engine and trans are out. Have a 4.8/4l60e going in. Just going to be a cam/headers swap. Trying to keep it as stock appearing s possible.
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#8
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https://ls1tech.com/forums/conversio...l-options.html
#9
not sure what your master plan is but I’m not using the ford ecm for anything really. I’m using a Holley to run the engine. No vats issues for me at all, and I didn’t do anything regarding vats. Even my air bag and anti lock indicators work. only thing I couldn’t get working is the seat belt and traction control lights.
https://ls1tech.com/forums/conversio...l-options.html
https://ls1tech.com/forums/conversio...l-options.html
#10
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I was reading on one of the Holley forums, that you can use one or more of the outputs from Holley to mimic the cam/crank sensor outputs so that you can route those signals to the factory ECU.
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lstransam (09-01-2023)