1967 Skylark Swap
#1
Teching In
Thread Starter
1967 Skylark Swap
So I bought a 1967 Skylark without an engine or transmission. The car is rough and needs new almost everything but it isn’t a total rust bucket. There are a few spots that need patch panels and there is some bondo that’s cracked and needs to be addressed. The previous owner installed a painless wiring harness and tubular control arms in the front. I got the car for $2100 so I don’t have much invested right now. The goal is for this to end up being a driver. It doesn’t need to be a race car or anything but rather something that I could take on cross country trips in style. I’m looking at dropping in either a LM7 or LQ4 with a 4L80e. I don’t think I have the budget or need to add a cam at this point. I don’t have a welder and this will be my first project of this kind so I’m looking to do things that mostly drop in. Guys at work have offered to help so we will see how that all turns out. I’m trying to make sure I’ve budgeted for this project appropriately so I know how much I can spend on the motor transmission. I’d like to post what I’m tracking I’m going to need right and get advice on my plan.
For the motor/ transmission mounts:
The two kits I’m looking at are either the Holley kit or the Tim Man Fab kit.
Tin Man includes motor mounts, frame brackets and the transmission cross member for $499.95
The Holley kit has a nicer cross member for $299.95 and the Engine bracket is $149.95 but I need a separate F-body motor mount which seems to run between $70 and $110.
Oil Pan:
Holly #302-3 $358.95
Fuel Tank:
PSI Coated Steel EFI Gas $510 (https://www.psiconversion.com/produc...37J-T-KIT.html)
I looked at the Holly Fuel tank but it isn’t listed for 1967.
Fuel Lines with Corvette Regulator $150
Exhaust: $200 Ebay headers
Engine Refresh:
Oil Pump- Melling M295
Timing Chain $120
Used LS1 Intake ($165ish)
Wire Harness Conversion:
Easy EFI Solutions $450
So that is the current plan. I’m waiting to get an engine stand and picker for free from someone at work so I won’t buy an engine until I get those. I am going to go check out some local wrecking yards to see what prices are. Online is seems the LM7 is about $1,000 and the LQ4 is $1500 and up. Any thoughts or suggestions on my parts plan?
For the motor/ transmission mounts:
The two kits I’m looking at are either the Holley kit or the Tim Man Fab kit.
Tin Man includes motor mounts, frame brackets and the transmission cross member for $499.95
The Holley kit has a nicer cross member for $299.95 and the Engine bracket is $149.95 but I need a separate F-body motor mount which seems to run between $70 and $110.
Oil Pan:
Holly #302-3 $358.95
Fuel Tank:
PSI Coated Steel EFI Gas $510 (https://www.psiconversion.com/produc...37J-T-KIT.html)
I looked at the Holly Fuel tank but it isn’t listed for 1967.
Fuel Lines with Corvette Regulator $150
Exhaust: $200 Ebay headers
Engine Refresh:
Oil Pump- Melling M295
Timing Chain $120
Used LS1 Intake ($165ish)
Wire Harness Conversion:
Easy EFI Solutions $450
So that is the current plan. I’m waiting to get an engine stand and picker for free from someone at work so I won’t buy an engine until I get those. I am going to go check out some local wrecking yards to see what prices are. Online is seems the LM7 is about $1,000 and the LQ4 is $1500 and up. Any thoughts or suggestions on my parts plan?
#2
TECH Apprentice
Let's see some pictures. I did my conversion before there was a kit, but sure sounds like the Holley kit is the way to go. The Corvette FEAD fits nice, I just used the Buick radiator, swap to the jeep steering box. Get some brakes, drums all around wont be enough to stop her.
#3
The fore/aft engine position is critical in being able to install a 4L80 in an A-body and obtain optimized U-joint operating angles without having to cut the tunnel open. This is the reason there are two different sets of Hooker LS engine brackets available for the 64-67 A-body cars. The forward bias brackets will provide the specific position needed to optimize fitment of the 4L80 in your car.
#5
Teching In
Thread Starter
Pictures
Here are some pictures of the car. The front already has disk brakes and some suspension mod's. I think I'm going to just go ahead and order the Holley swap parts. I'm still debating the 5.3 vs the 6.0 for the $500 difference. I found a yard local that has both which includes all the wires, intake, and computer. I've heard good stuff about them and I went to a different yard in the area and they wanted as much for a short block as the first yard did for everything. The price seems to be $1000 for the 5.3 and $1500 for the 6.0. I could get it cheaper in Portland but I'm not sure the PITA that going to Portland causes is worth $200.
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Cummins6.75555 (08-30-2021)
#10
I did the Tanks Inc deal with my 1965 Skylark. I gained capacity with this tank. I believe I went from the stock 22 gals to around 25 gals with the Tank Inc. By the way the Buick purists are going to be mad at you.
#11
Teching In
Thread Starter
It looks like whether you by from Tanks, Holley, PSI, or Aero you are still getting a Tanks Inc tank. The difference seems to be assembly and which pump you get. The 255lph looks to work for a street driven car. Holley doesn’t list the ‘67 for some reason. My pictures still aren’t loading so I’ll have to try again. I’m glad to know the Tanks Inc works for folks. That Ricks Tank is too rich for my blood.
As as long as it is still there when I go back, I found a local yard that has a LQ4/4L80e for $2,500 that I’m going to buy. The guys at the yard seemed on the up and up and were much nicer than the other yards I visited. I can also get the 6.0 for what other yards want for the 5.3. I know these motors are stacked up in some parts of the country I sure am not finding them local.
As as long as it is still there when I go back, I found a local yard that has a LQ4/4L80e for $2,500 that I’m going to buy. The guys at the yard seemed on the up and up and were much nicer than the other yards I visited. I can also get the 6.0 for what other yards want for the 5.3. I know these motors are stacked up in some parts of the country I sure am not finding them local.
#14
Teching In
Thread Starter
i know it would be cheaper to buy the vehicle but I don’t have the space. I’m paying the premium to not have to deal with pulling it myself and then junking the vehicle. The wife was ok with my project in the garage but not a junker sitting in front of the house.
#15
Teching In
Thread Starter
LQ4 Motor
Head Number
Drive by wire pedal, drive by cable TB, and Alternator.
Well I bought a motor. The yard included everything that came with the original motor and gave me an extra Throttle body that is a drive by cable. Now I just need to get the new old pan ordered.
Head Number
Drive by wire pedal, drive by cable TB, and Alternator.
Well I bought a motor. The yard included everything that came with the original motor and gave me an extra Throttle body that is a drive by cable. Now I just need to get the new old pan ordered.
#16
Nice looking ride. I have a soft spot for 66-67 A bodies.
#17
So I bought a 1967 Skylark without an engine or transmission. The car is rough and needs new almost everything but it isn’t a total rust bucket. There are a few spots that need patch panels and there is some bondo that’s cracked and needs to be addressed. The previous owner installed a painless wiring harness and tubular control arms in the front. I got the car for $2100 so I don’t have much invested right now. The goal is for this to end up being a driver. It doesn’t need to be a race car or anything but rather something that I could take on cross country trips in style. I’m looking at dropping in either a LM7 or LQ4 with a 4L80e. I don’t think I have the budget or need to add a cam at this point. I don’t have a welder and this will be my first project of this kind so I’m looking to do things that mostly drop in. Guys at work have offered to help so we will see how that all turns out. I’m trying to make sure I’ve budgeted for this project appropriately so I know how much I can spend on the motor transmission. I’d like to post what I’m tracking I’m going to need right and get advice on my plan.
For the motor/ transmission mounts:
The two kits I’m looking at are either the Holley kit or the Tim Man Fab kit.
Tin Man includes motor mounts, frame brackets and the transmission cross member for $499.95
The Holley kit has a nicer cross member for $299.95 and the Engine bracket is $149.95 but I need a separate F-body motor mount which seems to run between $70 and $110.
Oil Pan:
Holly #302-3 $358.95
Fuel Tank:
PSI Coated Steel EFI Gas $510 (https://www.psiconversion.com/produc...37J-T-KIT.html)
I looked at the Holly Fuel tank but it isn’t listed for 1967.
Fuel Lines with Corvette Regulator $150
Exhaust: $200 Ebay headers
Engine Refresh:
Oil Pump- Melling M295
Timing Chain $120
Used LS1 Intake ($165ish)
Wire Harness Conversion:
Easy EFI Solutions $450
So that is the current plan. I’m waiting to get an engine stand and picker for free from someone at work so I won’t buy an engine until I get those. I am going to go check out some local wrecking yards to see what prices are. Online is seems the LM7 is about $1,000 and the LQ4 is $1500 and up. Any thoughts or suggestions on my parts plan?
For the motor/ transmission mounts:
The two kits I’m looking at are either the Holley kit or the Tim Man Fab kit.
Tin Man includes motor mounts, frame brackets and the transmission cross member for $499.95
The Holley kit has a nicer cross member for $299.95 and the Engine bracket is $149.95 but I need a separate F-body motor mount which seems to run between $70 and $110.
Oil Pan:
Holly #302-3 $358.95
Fuel Tank:
PSI Coated Steel EFI Gas $510 (https://www.psiconversion.com/produc...37J-T-KIT.html)
I looked at the Holly Fuel tank but it isn’t listed for 1967.
Fuel Lines with Corvette Regulator $150
Exhaust: $200 Ebay headers
Engine Refresh:
Oil Pump- Melling M295
Timing Chain $120
Used LS1 Intake ($165ish)
Wire Harness Conversion:
Easy EFI Solutions $450
So that is the current plan. I’m waiting to get an engine stand and picker for free from someone at work so I won’t buy an engine until I get those. I am going to go check out some local wrecking yards to see what prices are. Online is seems the LM7 is about $1,000 and the LQ4 is $1500 and up. Any thoughts or suggestions on my parts plan?
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G Atsma (08-19-2021)
#19
Teching In
Thread Starter