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1967 Skylark Swap

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Old 10-05-2017, 07:08 PM
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Default 1967 Skylark Swap

So I bought a 1967 Skylark without an engine or transmission. The car is rough and needs new almost everything but it isn’t a total rust bucket. There are a few spots that need patch panels and there is some bondo that’s cracked and needs to be addressed. The previous owner installed a painless wiring harness and tubular control arms in the front. I got the car for $2100 so I don’t have much invested right now. The goal is for this to end up being a driver. It doesn’t need to be a race car or anything but rather something that I could take on cross country trips in style. I’m looking at dropping in either a LM7 or LQ4 with a 4L80e. I don’t think I have the budget or need to add a cam at this point. I don’t have a welder and this will be my first project of this kind so I’m looking to do things that mostly drop in. Guys at work have offered to help so we will see how that all turns out. I’m trying to make sure I’ve budgeted for this project appropriately so I know how much I can spend on the motor transmission. I’d like to post what I’m tracking I’m going to need right and get advice on my plan.



For the motor/ transmission mounts:

The two kits I’m looking at are either the Holley kit or the Tim Man Fab kit.

Tin Man includes motor mounts, frame brackets and the transmission cross member for $499.95

The Holley kit has a nicer cross member for $299.95 and the Engine bracket is $149.95 but I need a separate F-body motor mount which seems to run between $70 and $110.

Oil Pan:

Holly #302-3 $358.95

Fuel Tank:

PSI Coated Steel EFI Gas $510 (https://www.psiconversion.com/produc...37J-T-KIT.html)

I looked at the Holly Fuel tank but it isn’t listed for 1967.

Fuel Lines with Corvette Regulator $150

Exhaust: $200 Ebay headers

Engine Refresh:

Oil Pump- Melling M295

Timing Chain $120

Used LS1 Intake ($165ish)

Wire Harness Conversion:

Easy EFI Solutions $450

So that is the current plan. I’m waiting to get an engine stand and picker for free from someone at work so I won’t buy an engine until I get those. I am going to go check out some local wrecking yards to see what prices are. Online is seems the LM7 is about $1,000 and the LQ4 is $1500 and up. Any thoughts or suggestions on my parts plan?
Old 10-07-2017, 09:24 AM
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Let's see some pictures. I did my conversion before there was a kit, but sure sounds like the Holley kit is the way to go. The Corvette FEAD fits nice, I just used the Buick radiator, swap to the jeep steering box. Get some brakes, drums all around wont be enough to stop her.
Old 10-07-2017, 07:23 PM
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The fore/aft engine position is critical in being able to install a 4L80 in an A-body and obtain optimized U-joint operating angles without having to cut the tunnel open. This is the reason there are two different sets of Hooker LS engine brackets available for the 64-67 A-body cars. The forward bias brackets will provide the specific position needed to optimize fitment of the 4L80 in your car.
Old 10-08-2017, 04:36 PM
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Glad to see this thread! I'm actually finishing up a motor now for my swap in my 66' Buick Skylark Convertible.
Old 10-08-2017, 11:36 PM
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Here are some pictures of the car. The front already has disk brakes and some suspension mod's. I think I'm going to just go ahead and order the Holley swap parts. I'm still debating the 5.3 vs the 6.0 for the $500 difference. I found a yard local that has both which includes all the wires, intake, and computer. I've heard good stuff about them and I went to a different yard in the area and they wanted as much for a short block as the first yard did for everything. The price seems to be $1000 for the 5.3 and $1500 for the 6.0. I could get it cheaper in Portland but I'm not sure the PITA that going to Portland causes is worth $200.
Old 10-09-2017, 11:28 PM
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I thought I posted pictures yesterday but they never showed up. I’m not sure what happened but I will try again in a few days.
Old 10-11-2017, 10:47 PM
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Here is the Car
Interior
Front Suspension
Engine Bay
Old 10-14-2017, 09:21 PM
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I did an ls1 t56 swap in my 67 GS about 3 years ago and it's been great. I would go with a tanks inc efi tank. Works great for me.
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Old 10-15-2017, 12:19 PM
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I'd love to see some pics, if you guys get time to post them.
Old 10-15-2017, 09:33 PM
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Originally Posted by 1967BuickGS400
I did an ls1 t56 swap in my 67 GS about 3 years ago and it's been great. I would go with a tanks inc efi tank. Works great for me.
I did the Tanks Inc deal with my 1965 Skylark. I gained capacity with this tank. I believe I went from the stock 22 gals to around 25 gals with the Tank Inc. By the way the Buick purists are going to be mad at you.
Old 10-15-2017, 10:44 PM
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It looks like whether you by from Tanks, Holley, PSI, or Aero you are still getting a Tanks Inc tank. The difference seems to be assembly and which pump you get. The 255lph looks to work for a street driven car. Holley doesn’t list the ‘67 for some reason. My pictures still aren’t loading so I’ll have to try again. I’m glad to know the Tanks Inc works for folks. That Ricks Tank is too rich for my blood.

As as long as it is still there when I go back, I found a local yard that has a LQ4/4L80e for $2,500 that I’m going to buy. The guys at the yard seemed on the up and up and were much nicer than the other yards I visited. I can also get the 6.0 for what other yards want for the 5.3. I know these motors are stacked up in some parts of the country I sure am not finding them local.
Old 10-15-2017, 11:39 PM
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Old 10-16-2017, 01:53 AM
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I live in southern Oregon and I've found that it is cheaper to buy a complete vehicle rather than a complete dropout. Fwiw, make it a 76 Skylark instead and you have my first car.
Old 10-16-2017, 04:48 AM
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Originally Posted by skylark
I live in southern Oregon and I've found that it is cheaper to buy a complete vehicle rather than a complete dropout. Fwiw, make it a 76 Skylark instead and you have my first car.
i know it would be cheaper to buy the vehicle but I don’t have the space. I’m paying the premium to not have to deal with pulling it myself and then junking the vehicle. The wife was ok with my project in the garage but not a junker sitting in front of the house.
Old 11-10-2017, 02:59 PM
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LQ4 Motor
Head Number
Drive by wire pedal, drive by cable TB, and Alternator.
Well I bought a motor. The yard included everything that came with the original motor and gave me an extra Throttle body that is a drive by cable. Now I just need to get the new old pan ordered.
Old 11-11-2017, 10:33 AM
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Nice looking ride. I have a soft spot for 66-67 A bodies.
Old 08-19-2021, 06:36 PM
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Originally Posted by OR-67-Buick
So I bought a 1967 Skylark without an engine or transmission. The car is rough and needs new almost everything but it isn’t a total rust bucket. There are a few spots that need patch panels and there is some bondo that’s cracked and needs to be addressed. The previous owner installed a painless wiring harness and tubular control arms in the front. I got the car for $2100 so I don’t have much invested right now. The goal is for this to end up being a driver. It doesn’t need to be a race car or anything but rather something that I could take on cross country trips in style. I’m looking at dropping in either a LM7 or LQ4 with a 4L80e. I don’t think I have the budget or need to add a cam at this point. I don’t have a welder and this will be my first project of this kind so I’m looking to do things that mostly drop in. Guys at work have offered to help so we will see how that all turns out. I’m trying to make sure I’ve budgeted for this project appropriately so I know how much I can spend on the motor transmission. I’d like to post what I’m tracking I’m going to need right and get advice on my plan.



For the motor/ transmission mounts:

The two kits I’m looking at are either the Holley kit or the Tim Man Fab kit.

Tin Man includes motor mounts, frame brackets and the transmission cross member for $499.95

The Holley kit has a nicer cross member for $299.95 and the Engine bracket is $149.95 but I need a separate F-body motor mount which seems to run between $70 and $110.

Oil Pan:

Holly #302-3 $358.95

Fuel Tank:

PSI Coated Steel EFI Gas $510 (https://www.psiconversion.com/produc...37J-T-KIT.html)

I looked at the Holly Fuel tank but it isn’t listed for 1967.

Fuel Lines with Corvette Regulator $150

Exhaust: $200 Ebay headers

Engine Refresh:

Oil Pump- Melling M295

Timing Chain $120

Used LS1 Intake ($165ish)

Wire Harness Conversion:

Easy EFI Solutions $450

So that is the current plan. I’m waiting to get an engine stand and picker for free from someone at work so I won’t buy an engine until I get those. I am going to go check out some local wrecking yards to see what prices are. Online is seems the LM7 is about $1,000 and the LQ4 is $1500 and up. Any thoughts or suggestions on my parts plan?
How did skylark come out? I have 67 skylark i need to put motor /tranny in also n lookin for something thatll drop in thats economical and good
Old 08-19-2021, 06:47 PM
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OP hasn't been here for almost 3 years.. Too bad looked like a good project...
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Old 08-20-2021, 04:29 PM
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Originally Posted by pdxmotorhead
OP hasn't been here for almost 3 years.. Too bad looked like a good project...
So the project got put on hold because of an Army deployment. The motor is in my garage all torn apart. As soon as I got back from deployment, my work situation changed and I’ve been working most weekends since I got back. The project isn’t dead but It is going to take me a while to get back to where I even know where the parts are. I also just welcomed child number three. Life has gotten out of control but I’m hoping to pick it back up this fall.

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Old 08-23-2021, 09:02 AM
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Congrats on the new baby.
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