5.3 Vortec in '63 Riviera swap.
11-04-2014, 12:23 PM
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5.3 Vortec in '63 Riviera swap. Hey guys, I'm putting a 5.3 Vortec/4L60E in my '63 Riv. Dangling the VERY tall truck engine in the bay, it's obvious that the truck intake is much too tall to clear the very low hood line. I'm going to have to swap for an LS style intake. I've searched here, and read varying opinions on whether or not the truck injectors and fuel rails will work on an LS1 intake. I'd like to keep my DBW throttle body (because I have it and it's paid for!) likewise the injectors, to keep the budget reasonable. My first thought was that the hood would need a blister, like a Chevelle cowl induction hood, but with the truck intake it'd be too tall. I'm also going to have to move the alternator from it's high position, and the AC compressor up, so any real world advice on which relocation brackets work best would also be a big help. I have the truck (Avalanch) under hood harness and plan on modifying it as a stand alone, like I did with my Diamond T 6.0 swap. The truck exhaust manifolds LOOK like they'll clear everything and work fine, and I have the exhaust pipes with 02 sensors to adapt to the (new) Riv stock exhaust. Thanks!
11-04-2014, 03:45 PM
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Well, that's a good question. I don't know the engine designation for it. It's an '03, the veh.# is 3GNEK13T22G277041, an Avalanche 4WD. Does that help ID it?
11-04-2014, 04:15 PM
#4
03, LM7, 3 bolt TB so your TB will bolt up to an LS1 intake. I hope you got the TAC and pedal with it.
The injectors have a plastic tip on the bottom that some have removed allowing use on the LS1 intake. You'll need aftermarket rails with home made hold downs since the truck injectors are shorter than LS1 injectors.
Kwik and Holley both make brackets with truck spacing for the alt/ps/AC.
The injectors have a plastic tip on the bottom that some have removed allowing use on the LS1 intake. You'll need aftermarket rails with home made hold downs since the truck injectors are shorter than LS1 injectors.
Kwik and Holley both make brackets with truck spacing for the alt/ps/AC.
11-04-2014, 04:27 PM
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Yes, I have the pedal. I've read that by bending the truck fuel rails slightly they'll clear the coil packs, but I haven't seen any posts anywhere about anyone who's actually done so and them fit. Ideally, I'd like to get a manifold with injectors and rails complete, I don't really like the idea of mixing things up, since I don't really understand what I'm doing ;-) Doing a cowl induction style bulge in the Rivi's hood, which already has a small, low raised center section, would maybe be the ticket, if I can get the engine down and back another inch. Just a little more whittling on the cross-member...
11-05-2014, 07:14 AM
#7
If you get an LS1 intake with injectors and rail, put it on the LM7, that's where you bend the LS1 rail to clear the truck coils. The truck rail will fit, it just sticks up higher than the truck intake.
Btw, if you go LS1 injectors, you'll need to reprogram and change out the wiring connectors. I've done it both ways, both work.
Btw, if you go LS1 injectors, you'll need to reprogram and change out the wiring connectors. I've done it both ways, both work.
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11-07-2014, 02:31 PM
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Thanks guys. It looks like I'm going to be able to use the Vortec intake after all. 
A modest crossmember notch for the pan, and one in front for the PS fitting, a little clearancing of the right hand truck manifold wtih a grinder, and trimmimg and rotating the flange on the left, the engine drops right in. The intake cover is off, trimmimg of the little clips and bumps on the top of the intake, and losing the evap vacume selonoid and the hood will clear. The alternator likewise clears. The truck exhast manifolds will mate to the stock Riv. exhaust with a short extension for the 02 bungs and new flanges, so the exhaust practically bolts up. I will have to either section the deep sump on the truck oil pan, or go with a replacement, either way will work with just a slight rework of the Riv steering center link.
I was a bit discouraged thinking I'd have to buy new intake, pan, and drive accessories, and all the extra work and expense, but it's going to pretty simple. The only thing I'm going to have to fabricate (or buy) is a bracket to mount the AC compressor up high on the engine, I'll worry about that last!
So, the Vortec engine WILL fit under the low hood line of these cars with minimal work, one just has to be a little creative and have a torch and a sawzall!
And, when I pulled the intake cover off and actually looked, it's a cable throttle body, so that's easy too, it'll connect to the stock Riv throttle arm on the firewall.
A modest crossmember notch for the pan, and one in front for the PS fitting, a little clearancing of the right hand truck manifold wtih a grinder, and trimmimg and rotating the flange on the left, the engine drops right in. The intake cover is off, trimmimg of the little clips and bumps on the top of the intake, and losing the evap vacume selonoid and the hood will clear. The alternator likewise clears. The truck exhast manifolds will mate to the stock Riv. exhaust with a short extension for the 02 bungs and new flanges, so the exhaust practically bolts up. I will have to either section the deep sump on the truck oil pan, or go with a replacement, either way will work with just a slight rework of the Riv steering center link. I was a bit discouraged thinking I'd have to buy new intake, pan, and drive accessories, and all the extra work and expense, but it's going to pretty simple. The only thing I'm going to have to fabricate (or buy) is a bracket to mount the AC compressor up high on the engine, I'll worry about that last!
So, the Vortec engine WILL fit under the low hood line of these cars with minimal work, one just has to be a little creative and have a torch and a sawzall!
And, when I pulled the intake cover off and actually looked, it's a cable throttle body, so that's easy too, it'll connect to the stock Riv throttle arm on the firewall.
Last edited by flynbrian48; 11-07-2014 at 02:46 PM.
12-15-2014, 04:04 PM
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I bought a set of stainless headers from an eBay store for a late Camaro, and a GM swap oil pan from Jegs a couple weeks ago. They both arrived, and I've got the engine mounts tacked in, the trans crossmember modified (the stock Rivi crossmember just needed the mount tab extended and lowered 3/4"), the engine/trans are setting in the chassis. Before I pull the motor to clean the frame and weld up the mounts permanently, I thought I'd better set the front sheet metal on and make sure the engine cleared the hood. I had notched front crossmember an inch and half, the engine is as low as it can set in the chassis, so if it didn't clear, I'd be buying an LS intake and front drive set up, which I don't really want to do.
So, the question was, would it clear? The moment of truth revealed I had to cut a little notch in the hoods inner panel to clear the alternator, and I "relieved" the alternator bolt tab with a grinder just for good measure. By doing that, I have half an inch between the alternator and hood skin, so it fits!
So, the question was, would it clear? The moment of truth revealed I had to cut a little notch in the hoods inner panel to clear the alternator, and I "relieved" the alternator bolt tab with a grinder just for good measure. By doing that, I have half an inch between the alternator and hood skin, so it fits!
04-09-2015, 12:47 PM
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Progress on the Riviera, after a big mis-step. I'd ordered a GM swap oil pan, and modified the steering cross link to clear it, and had the engine in the chassis. Then I put the car on the ground and the pan was still hanging below the front crossmember an inch. I pulled the engine/trans, and then decided to section the original truck pan, which I did, had it TIG welded back up and put the engine back in, only to find the steering link now didn't clear the much longer truck pan sump. So, I took a wedge section out of the swap pan, 1" in front tapering to 0 at the rear, and just got it back together. No, on to the Air-Lift bag system.
06-03-2019, 08:44 PM
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Motor mounts oil pan Progress on the Riviera, after a big mis-step. I'd ordered a GM swap oil pan, and modified the steering cross link to clear it, and had the engine in the chassis. Then I put the car on the ground and the pan was still hanging below the front crossmember an inch. I pulled the engine/trans, and then decided to section the original truck pan, which I did, had it TIG welded back up and put the engine back in, only to find the steering link now didn't clear the much longer truck pan sump. So, I took a wedge section out of the swap pan, 1" in front tapering to 0 at the rear, and just got it back together. No, on to the Air-Lift bag system.
06-03-2019, 09:11 PM
#13
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OP hasn't been here in 4 years...
