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Ill take a look at that swapstang. I dont know whats going on with it. I need to use a DMM to make sure its even getting a signal from the ecu to that pin.
Did you say you had a pre-03 harness and computer? I'd look into that alternator plug first. If it's 99-02 it should only have 1 wire.
Did you say you had a pre-03 harness and computer? I'd look into that alternator plug first. If it's 99-02 it should only have 1 wire.
That's correct I'm using a 0411 ecu and the red/blue truck harness. It has two wires that feed back to the ecu. I have some resistors coming so I'll try running a wire to the pin B on the alternator connector from a 12V switched source.
I'm wondering if it has to do with the accessories option in HPTuners. It's set as a gmt1500 or something like that. I've been told not to mess with those settings.
That's correct I'm using a 0411 ecu and the red/blue truck harness. It has two wires that feed back to the ecu. I have some resistors coming so I'll try running a wire to the pin B on the alternator connector from a 12V switched source.
I'm wondering if it has to do with the accessories option in HPTuners. It's set as a gmt1500 or something like that. I've been told not to mess with those settings.
That's very strange you have those 2 plugs though. Maybe you have some kind of off year? Not sure. Like I said I have 2 99-02 harness' (I believe they're actually from 2000) and I have one plug on my alternator and that runs right to the ecu. I'd unpin that other plug and just run that plug b. Red pin 15 sticks out in my mind. That's how mine came factory and works great. Not sure if putting 12v to it will work but I'd just try to keep it in a manner that is known to work. If you need me to double check on that pin 15 for you I can. I'll even snap some pics for you if you want. Just let me know.
That's very strange you have those 2 plugs though. Maybe you have some kind of off year? Not sure. Like I said I have 2 99-02 harness' (I believe they're actually from 2000) and I have on plug on my alternator and that runs right to the ecu. I'd unpin that other plug and just run that plug b. Red pin 15 sticks out in my mind. That's how mine came factory and works great. Not sure if putting 12v to it will work but I'd just try to keep it in a manner that is known to work. If you need me to double check on that pin 15 for you I can. I'll even snap some pics for you if you want. Just let me know.
I think you misunderstood my comment, or it was not that clear.
I have two wires from the ECU Pin R15 (Brown) going to Pin B on the alt Plug. The other wire is a gray wire going to Pin C on the alt plug from ECU Pin R52. the R15 is supply a 5v-8v range to the internal regulator to turn on the charging portion of the alternator. When i turn my car on and start it i dont have any voltage at that wire. So i am going to run a 12V Switched wire to that plug with a 1/2w 470 Ohm resistor to bring it down to below 8V and see what happens.
I think you misunderstood my comment, or it was not that clear.
I have two wires from the ECU Pin R15 (Brown) going to Pin B on the alt Plug. The other wire is a gray wire going to Pin C on the alt plug from ECU Pin R52. the R15 is supply a 5v-8v range to the internal regulator to turn on the charging portion of the alternator. When i turn my car on and start it i dont have any voltage at that wire. So i am going to run a 12V Switched wire to that plug with a 1/2w 470 Ohm resistor to bring it down to below 8V and see what happens.
It was clear but maybe we aren't on the same page. What I was saying is these only need one wire to run. Why complicate it by running 2? Unhook that R52 plug from the alternator side for now and maybe that will let the PCM send the correct trigger to the alternator. Why go rewiring and adding when these were setup this way to begin with. I always try the easiest step first and unhooking 1 wire seems pretty easy to me.
It was clear but maybe we aren't on the same page. What I was saying is these only need one wire to run. Why complicate it by running 2? Unhook that R52 plug from the alternator side for now and maybe that will let the PCM send the correct trigger to the alternator. Why go rewiring and adding when these were setup this way to begin with. I always try the easiest step first and unhooking 1 wire seems pretty easy to me.
I see where we went wrong here. There is no voltage at the R15 wire when the car is on, It is not triggering the alternator. Its either 2 things; A. Wire is broken somewhere in the harness, B. ECU is not triggering the alternator for some reason. All the ECU does is send a low voltage signal to the Alternator to tell it to turn on and charge, i can bypass this by running a 12V switched with a resistor to lower the voltage.
I see where we went wrong here. There is no voltage at the R15 wire when the car is on, It is not triggering the alternator. Its either 2 things; A. Wire is broken somewhere in the harness, B. ECU is not triggering the alternator for some reason. All the ECU does is send a low voltage signal to the Alternator to tell it to turn on and charge, i can bypass this by running a 12V switched with a resistor to lower the voltage.
That is kinda what I was thinking haha. But here's my thought, since these do typically have 1 wire to run it, what if that PIN C on your alternator is making the computer do something else? That's what I was saying is that maybe that combination of wiring is making the PCM not send the signal to turn on the alt. My suggestion is to unplug that first and then if there is no voltage still, find the broken wire, run a new one to pin 15, or do your trick. Make sense?
Not much of an update, still waiting on McLeod to ship me back my master cylinder from being rebuilt. Turns out that it was a bad cylinder from the factory. Almost everything is buttoned up on the car. Bought a Kenny Brown Street Cage for dirt cheap, also snagged a brand new OEM cobra rear bumper and side skirts. 4.5" Kaenen hood is ordered and will be here at the end of the month. Trying to figure out who i want to base tune the car, I've looked at tuned by Frost and Dynosty in Louisville.
Oh and I now have a 1990 C4 Corvette in my possession so the Mustang was booted to the driveway. It was my grandfathers and was given to me when he passed 1.5 years ago. Its Red with Red Interior Z51 adjustable suspension, glass and red targa tops. Zero accidents and he was the original owner, has 88k Miles on it.
Here is the current list of stuff left to do.
To Do List:
Install Sway Bar End Links
Finish -6 AN Power Steering Return Line
Flush Water from Coolant System and Fill with Proper Coolant
Get Alternator Working (Possible Bad Alt)
Get a Base Tune
Reinstall Ls1 idler pulley for power steering system
Order new belt and install
Paint and Reinstall Airbags
Calibrate Autometer Tach
Originally Posted by SwapStang
That is kinda what I was thinking haha. But here's my thought, since these do typically have 1 wire to run it, what if that PIN C on your alternator is making the computer do something else? That's what I was saying is that maybe that combination of wiring is making the PCM not send the signal to turn on the alt. My suggestion is to unplug that first and then if there is no voltage still, find the broken wire, run a new one to pin 15, or do your trick. Make sense?
I tried wiring it directly to the battery and also doing a one wire from factory harness and neither worked. Im starting to lean towards a bad alternator.
Finally got the car under its own power, after struggling with the hydraulic conversion kit for over 2 weeks. I ended up reaching out to a former member here Jlewis, he told me what he tried and it worked. What a good feeling to be able to actually drive the car after 7 months.
Hooked up my power steering lines, and the pressure line blew apart. I think it had something to do with when i was spreading the braid apart and it punctured the nylon inside. Waiting on some new fittings so that i can remake that line again.
For some reason i am having issues with my fans again. They will both run on low when fan #1 is on, but when fan #2 is on only one is on high. So i need to pull my fender and figure that out. Ontop of that the car is running around 215-220 which i think a little bit of it is caused by a lean base tune. Its idling at around 15.3-15.6 AFR.
Fixed the alternator, found out it was a bad alternator. I temporarily have it replaced with a self igniting DR44G (it only has a 2 prong plug connection). So when i get time to search the junk yard again i will try and find another truck with the correct 4 pin DR44G.
My funds have been cut off almost down to a trickle for this car at this point in time as i try and consolidate some debt. So i dont think the car will be dyno tuned for quite some time. I have been reading up on tuning with HPtuners, so i will mess around with that for a little bit while i wait on funds.
A Couple of weekends ago a couple of my buddies came up from Raleigh NC to go to the hot rod power tour so we ended up tagging along for the first leg. What a experience that was, so many nice cars out there. Also dragged for my first time ever with the Corvette. Its a dog but nevertheless fun.
Here are some pictures from that weekend.
Cowl hood came in and laid on the car, so far seems like its top notch quality. Will have it painted sometime in the winter.
What did you tie into for the the key on, engine running?
Thanks.
Are you wanting to know the starter trigger or the 12V Key ON during all cycles of the key through start?
For the starter trigger I just used the stock mustang white/pink wire that leads under the stock fuse block.
For ignition switched 12V+ i found a wire in the kick panel that goes to the Mustang ECU. PIN 97 IIRC.
I have put about 150ish miles on the car since the last time i posted. Going through right now and VE tuning the car to the best of my knowledge, im still learning quite a bit as far as blending the data but its not running lean so thats good lol.
I redid my power steering line for the 2nd time and it busted within two minutes of starting the car. I need to look into getting the appropriate hose material, PTFE hose from summit has a operating pressure of 2500PSI so i assumed it will be okay. I am using their hose and fittings and it seems to bust at the brass ferrule that goes onto the line. So im ordering some actual steel fitting and seeing what happens.
275/35/18's are a bitch to turn without power steering lol.
Finally figured out the power steering, drove it around for about 45 miles today data logging and it didnt skip a beat. Key was to use Russels Power steering hose and steel fittings.
Got the car street tuned well enough that I will drive it down to get tuned sometime next week, im thinking the car will lay somewhere between 350-360 RWHP but we shall see.
Still have quite a bit of work to do before LS Fest happens, i need to get the car dyno tuned, alignment done, go through all the bolts and make sure they are tight, change the oil, put the air bags back in (lol).
Oh and been talking to Robby (RobertD) for probably close to a couple weeks now about which way i am going to go with the car and we decided that the car will go Twin Turbo this fall/winter. Going to run a twin top mount On 3 70MM turbos with the .96 exhaust housings. Planning to switch over to DBW (thanks again Robby for the harness) for cruise control and hopefully going to route the hot side to retain A/C. Going to use a C6 manifold on the passenger side and a truck on the drivers side. As much as I want to enjoy the car right now, I have had the turbo itch for quiet some time. And yes the car will remain 6 Speed till it lets go. I will modify the harness to retain the auto wiring harness and just keep it tied up until I switch to a 4l80E if that time comes.
Finally figured out the power steering, drove it around for about 45 miles today data logging and it didnt skip a beat. Key was to use Russels Power steering hose and steel fittings.
Got the car street tuned well enough that I will drive it down to get tuned sometime next week, im thinking the car will lay somewhere between 350-360 RWHP but we shall see.
Still have quite a bit of work to do before LS Fest happens, i need to get the car dyno tuned, alignment done, go through all the bolts and make sure they are tight, change the oil, put the air bags back in (lol).
Oh and been talking to Robby (RobertD) for probably close to a couple weeks now about which way i am going to go with the car and we decided that the car will go Twin Turbo this fall/winter. Going to run a twin top mount On 3 70MM turbos with the .96 exhaust housings. Planning to switch over to DBW (thanks again Robby for the harness) for cruise control and hopefully going to route the hot side to retain A/C. Going to use a C6 manifold on the passenger side and a truck on the drivers side. As much as I want to enjoy the car right now, I have had the turbo itch for quiet some time. And yes the car will remain 6 Speed till it lets go. I will modify the harness to retain the auto wiring harness and just keep it tied up until I switch to a 4l80E if that time comes.
I love it sick job man! That thing is going to be a monster with a couple of turbos on there. You going to rent dyno time and try your hand at tuning?
I have done some street tuning myself to get it to a nice baseline to drive it to the tuner (no trailer or truck). I wouldnt feel comfortable with the turbos trying to tune so i would take it to get tuned. Car will go to Shortuning when its all said and done with the turbos, James does some incredible things on these LS cars.
The car is going to Track Days Tuning in Indiana for the N/A dyno tune, i wanted to go to Dynosty but they were booked up till November.
My goal for the twin turbos is to be able to hit 650-700 RWHP.
They are going to be .68 not .96. From what i have read they will light up quick on the street. Hell i may even call On 3 and see if they have any .81 .AR turbos for sale. The .68AR will light up quick but suffer up high, .96 will suffer down low and be great up high, need to find the happy medium.
Street car mostly/track when i want to turn the boost up lol. I only want to run 10-15lbs
04-23-2018, 09:29 AM
