86 c10 5.3 swap
#1
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86 c10 5.3 swap
Im trying to decide what type of intake/fuel injection system i want to use on my swap. I have all the stock silverado parts including airbox but im not sure if i like the look for my truck. I have thought about using a carb intake and a sniper system so i can keep the stock 86 air cleaner set up wich i think i prefer. What about using a carb intake, a 4150 style throttle body and the factory 2002 computer? What kind of road blocks am i looking at trying to get everything to work together? Im still in the planning stages untill i get my 88 trans am swap ironed out and running well. I will be probably be using a mail order tune if i keep the 02 computer as there are not a lot of tuners in my area. It will be a mild cam only with the possibility of adding a torque storm supercharger. The plan is to tow the trans am to the track with the c10. Thanks.
#2
TECH Senior Member
Switching to a carb just because you like the air cleaner setup better??? Backwards thinking. You will be batter off using the OEM injection system, It is proven to work, and be more efficient and powerful at the same time. Carbs are proven to be less efficient and more of a maintenance hassle than EFI. To use a carb is a giant step backwards.
#3
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Im not switching to a carb. I asked about a carb intake and either a 4150 style throttle body with a factory ecu or a sniper fuel injection set up. I dont care for stock 5.3 intake and air filter setup on square body trucks. Some have done a great job making it look like a factory install its just not my preference. Know that im strongly considering a torque storm i think it will package better with a carb intake.
#4
TECH Senior Member
Oh OK. Thanks for clearing that up! I clearly misunderstood or misread it.
Yeah, if you can make the factory ECU, which is very capable, work with a 4150 throttle body on a carb-style intake with injector ports, then yeah, go for it. Should look and run fairly well!
Yeah, if you can make the factory ECU, which is very capable, work with a 4150 throttle body on a carb-style intake with injector ports, then yeah, go for it. Should look and run fairly well!
#6
TECH Senior Member
I agree! A full injection setup with a nice BIG round air cleaner on top has that nice retro look with all the performance advantages, except for not using a MAF, but not a real big deal.
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#9
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I am looking at swapping in a cam before i drop the 5.3 in. Im not looking for anything rowdy as this is just for beating around town in and a little towing so im looking at summits drop in cam .500-.500 209/217 112+1. Im looking for something i can get a mail order tune for as there isnt any local tuners around my area.
#10
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That cam will give you a nice little bump in power. When ordering the tune, give EVERY POSSIBLE detail to the vendor. The more you tell them, the closer the tune will be to being righteous.
#13
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I seem to be having trouble uploading pics now for some reason. Anyway my goal is to have the motor ready to drop in over the holiday weekend. I plan on purchasing the rest of my swap parts on black Friday so im trying to get my list together. I still need an electric fan, fuel pump, wire harness, and computer. Im still on the fence of using the factory truck intake or getting a carb intake and a sniper or fitech units. I would really like to have this swap wrapped up by the end of the year as i have 2 other projects i would like done before summer. My biggest draw back to the factory set up is the lack of a reputable tuner in my area. Any opinions on this matter? Also for the electric fan do i need duel fans or will a large single work?
#14
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I dropped the engine in today using the tejas steel works mounts. It position the motor 2 1/4 inches forward. I bought these mounts because you can keep the factory ac in the stock position. Now after looking everything over im thinking i can move the the frame stands 2" to the rear and keep the ac in the stock location. Anyone see any draw backs to moving the stands back on the cross member? I would like keep the stock drive shaft.
#15
Only thing I would think that would come into play is the oil pan clearance. I used ict billet mounts in the "stock" location when I did the swap into an 87 suburban. Having a driveshaft re-tubed isnt terribly costly.
#16
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Look at the drive line angle geometry down the driveshaft between the trans and differential. Will moving the motor back help or hurt here? Moving the trans back might also cause clearance issues with the floor pan. Its already tight on most of these swaps. Do whatever you need to do with respect to the coolant lines BEFORE the trans goes in because it'll sure be too tight to solve rubbing problems afterwards - try 90 degree fittings before installing the trans.
Rick
Rick
#17
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I got it running and went for a short drive today. Is there a difference in the power steering pump for hydro boost and the regular pump? The one i have is from a truck with hydro boost and i have the top port plugged. While its running it growls horribly and is pushing fluid out of the low pressure return even though the clamp is tight.