C4VetteLS1

Ive read quite a bit about people rewiring thier stock harness to do the conversion, Id like to try this if its not to hard i just need some details.

1)Ill be using LS1 Edit to eliminate alot of stuff. I was going to just cut all the a/c stuff out.

2)Im going to do a fuel pump relay completely seperate from the wiring harness i believe (toggle switch to turn on fuel pump basically)

3) I read i need to pick up a few relays, a fuse block and some wire and thats it to do it. My car already has the wuse block that most of the car runs through (all lights, interior, exterior etc)
Do i really need this block for my engine/pcm harness?

4) I know i need the ADSL connector to hook up a diagnostic and my LS1 Edit stuff. Where do i get this connector (part #) and how do i hook it in?
Where do these relays need to go in the harness, how exactly should i hook up the fuse block?

Im just confused on where to start on what i need to do to the stock harness. I just dont have the extra $350-500 to have the harness modified. Im sure many people doing the conversion would like to hear detailed info on how to make the stock harness work and save the money on having it redone

<small>[ October 28, 2002, 03:20 AM: Message edited by: C4VetteLS1 ]</small>

bgreen

Kinda replied to this in the other thread but anyways...

Ive read quite a bit about people rewiring thier stock harness to do the conversion, Id like to try this if its not to hard i just need some details.

1)Ill be using LS1 Edit to eliminate alot of stuff. I was going to just cut all the a/c stuff out.

I did this as well.

2)Im going to do a fuel pump relay completely seperate from the wiring harness i believe (toggle switch to turn on fuel pump basically)

Why not use the factory PCM output to control the relay, and put a hidden switch as a security measure? I see no reason to add another switch to something controlled well by the computer.

3) I read i need to pick up a few relays, a fuse block and some wire and thats it to do it. My car already has the wuse block that most of the car runs through (all lights, interior, exterior etc)
Do i really need this block for my engine/pcm harness?

I'm not sure why. After some hacking of the harness, and some reprogramming, we didn't have to use anything special, and integrated our factory Fbody harness into the fuse box/panel that came with our Cobra kit (a very basic Haywire one I believe). I'd just fuse the power & ignition supply leads to the PCM, and you should be fine. Someone may have posted that just to keep the whole install clean ?? Relays might be for fuel pump & fans..

4) I know i need the ADSL connector to hook up a diagnostic and my LS1 Edit stuff. Where do i get this connector (part #) and how do i hook it in?

DLC - diagnostic link connector - I believe. Call up Speartech (posts in this forum a lot), he sold me 2 of these setups cheap. 3 wires to hookup, I believe power, ground, and the serial data connection to the PCM.

Where do these relays need to go in the harness, how exactly should i hook up the fuse block?

Don't complicate matters more than they need to be. Just look at your PCM's pinout, supply power, ignition & ground to the right spots (I'd fuse the power leads to protect the PCM) and use the fan & fuel pump outputs to relays to control those accessories. Done <img border="0" title="" alt="[Smile]" src="gr_stretch.gif" /> Print out the PCM pin outs for your PCM, keep 'em handy, go through all of the wires to make sure you have covered all aspects. They are available online at www.ls1.com in the FAQ.

Im just confused on where to start on what i need to do to the stock harness. I just dont have the extra $350-500 to have the harness modified. Im sure many people doing the conversion would like to hear detailed info on how to make the stock harness work and save the money on having it redone

I'm not sure what all the reworked harnesses offer. My guess is that it removes emissions, AC, the other connections like the gauge cluster connection, and underhood connections to the BCM. Might add integrated relays for fans & fuel pump, then the DLC connector. Granted, it is some work, but it's up to you if you'd rather do this work yourself.

67ls1CamaroProject

Did you get the two fuse boxes with your engine harness? If you did then there is a big lug post to which you will bring a battery connection. All the power is then distributed as designed by GM through all the fuses to each circuit including your PCM power. Get yourself the HELM shop manual for your engine and all will be much simpler. Do not expect to modify the harness without it. This fuse block harness connects to the engine harness with three multipin weather pak like connectors. Instead of eliminating wires, I will be eliminating fuses. I am still working out the mechanical details but when I get to the electrical I may post more in-depth solutions.

LS1swap

You do not need to unwrap the wires. Just take the harness off and use DMM to do a simple continuity test (that is what I did) the part number for the data link connector is 12110250 that is for the outer shell. I did the fuel pump relay separate too, but I ran it off one of the original engines wires that is hot in crank and run. I also used the same relay to give power to the injectors. As said above get the pin outs. What year harness are you using. If it is a 98 I have everything labeled and can save you some work.

jeromio

Mine's a 99. I do have the pinouts. I have the PC version of the factory manuals. It has pinouts for all connectors and component wiring diagrams. But there's no "Global" wiring diagram showing wires start to finish (eg, from PCM to FPR).

I started to try and find terminals from the PCM block, but it was really slow going. Plus, I have an AT harness but I'm using a T56. So, I need to find stuff like the clutch switch.

88SS LS1

iTrader: (9)

Have you tried going into a chiltons book they have the pinouts and colors of all the wires for an auto and m6.

88SS LS1

iTrader: (9)

Have you tried going into a chiltons book they have the pinouts and colors of all the wires for an auto and m6.

jeromio

All I have is the engine harness - nothing else from the donor car. Which is unfortunate because, for example, the fuel connections (press., reg, pump, etc.) all plug into that "extra" harness and I can't decode from the diagrams where the wires from the engine harness match up with the fuel tank harness (I have a camaro tank and sender).

SO, I am stuck having to tear apart my harness and trace all the wires from the PCM red and blue blocks out. VERY tedious. Plus I have to remove all that tape. Luckily that tape is not sticky like normal electrical tape, but it brings me (finally) to a question: Does anyone know where to get that non-sticky electrical tape? I have looked all over. I also want to replace the stiff outer flexi casing, but can't locate any that is large enough.

cdk4219

Would you actually trust a Chilton book for exact electrical advice like this?

cycoC10

</font><blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">quote:</font><hr /><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Originally posted by LS1swap:
<strong>You do not need to unwrap the wires. Just take the harness off and use DMM to do a simple continuity test (that is what I did) the part number for the data link connector is 12110250 that is for the outer shell. I did the fuel pump relay separate too, but I ran it off one of the original engines wires that is hot in crank and run. I also used the same relay to give power to the injectors. As said above get the pin outs. What year harness are you using. If it is a 98 I have everything labeled and can save you some work.</strong></font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Swap, I'm doing a '98 harness right now. What info do you have? I am going through the service manual now, but it is taking some time. Any work you can save me would be great.

bgreen

Pinouts & colors are on www.ls1.com FAQ section

LS1swap

What I was saying is that I still have all my wires labeled. I would be happy to point out what any wire goes to on any connector if you like. If you have the manuals you are probably further ahead than you think. Most of the wires that have to be tied into are in the two underhood connectors.( one is black the other is gray) there are also three other connectors to be concerned with natural (off white) , Blue, and white. The hook up is allot less complicated than it looks. I will post more tomorrow