RickyD

I am installing a new crate LS1 into my sandrail and obviously I have no need for heater hoses. Is it ok to just plug the ports on the water pump? Also I just realized the thermostat housing is on the lower end, is it safe to assume this would go to the lower radiator Connection (outlet)?? Thanks, Rick.

LS1swap

No you at least need to loop a hose to connect the tubes. You need this to keep coolant flowing over the thermostat. The thermostat hose goes to the lower port on the radiator ( opposite of older SBC) which is the inlet

RickyD

Since my original post I have inspected the system carefully and it appears there would be enough heated/outlet water "leaking" internally past/over the thermostat to activate it as necessary. Of course if the heater hoses were looped there would be much more flow but this is all heated coolant that will also bypass the radiator (or what would be a heater core)and go directly back into the motor. Any other opinions? Thanks, Rick.

LS1swap

Hmmm you do have a point there. The ls1 thermostat does let water bypass through the center of it, and I guess if pressure became great enough it could push the whole hat up. ( forgot all about that) . I see your point about worrying about coolant not running through the radiator. I guess you could put a restricter in the hose just to be on the safe side. Hopefully some one else here will chime in. I don't believe a heater core restricts the flow that much. Gm did put a smaller nipple on the outlet port to it. Maybe that is the reason ? Hope I haven't hert more than helped

LS1 BU

iTrader: (13)

I recently had a problem with blocking off the heater hose outlets on the water pump. I had them blocked off. When the car was idleing the car would overheat. I wasn't getting coolant flow at idle. If I raised the idle over 1500 rpm I would get coolant flow. I then looped the coolant hose. Now the car doesn't overheat at idle. I would loop the inlet and outlet.

Lesrace82

iTrader: (8)

I blocked off my outlets and have had no probs with my motor. Thing runs as cool as a cucumber, even sitting in traffic.

jeromio

With the heater connected, and the valve Off (because maybe it's summer and 100* out), there ain't no flow joe. Capped inlet/outlet is the same dealio.

Nine Ball

iTrader: (38)

Sorry to dig this one up from the past, but where would I find plugs this size for the heater hose nipples?

What did everyone else use?

Scooter70

iTrader: (1)

Tony,
I think I used NPT 1/2 and NPT 3/8 pipe plugs (measure the holes first though because I'm not positive). Check out your local Ace Hardware or Home Depot for the plugs.

The tap and drill sizes for those are:

TAP DRILL
3/8-18 37/64
1/2-14 23/32

http://www.midstatesbolt.com/tap_drill_sizes.htm

Project GatTagO

iTrader: (7)

Here is just a note about this. I was just looking over the new Hot Rod magazine, and on page 65 there is an engine bay shot of the CTS-V race car. They use a very interesting arrangement for some of the coolan line routing.

On a side note, the intake on that car looks to be an LS7 unit and the heads are not 3 valve. Very interesting.

Andrew

Nine Ball

iTrader: (38)

Scooter, what are you talking about on the drilling/tapping? I'm just talking about the two hose nipples on the passenger side of the water pump. Are there any slip-on band style plugs that I can put on there? Might use them later and don't want to cut them off.

The ones on the left in this photo: http://users.ev1.net/~ynot_dv8/69cam...s/engine07.jpg

Scooter70

iTrader: (1)

On the C3 Corvette, those nipples hit the front suspension, so we had to remove them and tap the aluminum casting. I guess this isn't an issue with 1st gen Camaros.

See the pic on 70LS1's webpage. I have no heater in my car so I just plugged the holes. Jeff does, so he had to put a couple of 90s on his H2O pump.

Sorry for the confusion.


edit: For some reason that link isn't coming up right in Netscape. You have to use IE.

Nine Ball

iTrader: (38)

Yep, I have tons of room next to those in my 1st gen. I'm just wondering if they make large enough rubber plugs for that size tubing. Time to hit the Home Depot perhaps...

Hawkn01

iTrader: (1)

Tony they do make the rubber caps that go over the water pump fittings. I had them on my stock pump and they worked fine. I had to run around to a few parts stores but finally found some. They were on those Help racks you see at most auto parts stores.

Budman78

iTrader: (5)

I just drilled out the outlets and plugged them with freeze plugs. So far so good. I also put a little sealant behind the plugs.

AAron

Hey Tony i think using the drill and tap method with plugs would look a lot cleaner under the hood. and you car is a show car so cleaner=better

jmd

iTrader: (4)

Napa sells a 2qty. package of 5/8" or 3/4". I use them when using third gen F radiators in G-bodies. They're like 2.99/2 but Autozone only has a 4.99 package of variety stuff that I don't need; no longer carries just the caps. Oh yah, email me if you need the Napa PN. Should have a spare pkg of 3/4 in the console.

LS Desert Ranger

so does everyone agree that just looping some hose from one nip to the other will be just fine?

mikezohsix

check a thread I have running now for the latest thoughts, which are pretty much split.

My take on it is you should not block them off, you should have a heater valve with a bypass circuit in it so when the water isn't going to the heater core, it's being returned to the motor on the larger fitting.

I am using a GTO donor car and am trying to find someone who will give me a diagram of the heater hose routing. The GTo had a four-way valve.