My 62 Impala Project
#61
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I was able to get a response from BRP right after seeing your new headers, but am still waiting for details. Have you tried to call Shawn? How much do these headers run, if you don't mind me asking. Are they stainless or coated mild?
You might be able to get a lokar e-brake setup that will replace the factory setup. I found the brackets to use C5/C6 calipers and rotors, and will need to devise an.... other than OEM setup on my '64. They've got floor mount and 2 different under dash setups that wouldn't need that pesky plastic wheel on the firewall/floor board area.
Also, you might be able to tweak the header while it's installed with a ratchet strap or a come-along. It would depend how much you need for clearance....
I know it might be/would be ugly, but a heat sheild might do the trick for your master cyl. An 1/8" aluminum sheild that could be polished and backed with heat wrap comes to mind.
You might be able to get a lokar e-brake setup that will replace the factory setup. I found the brackets to use C5/C6 calipers and rotors, and will need to devise an.... other than OEM setup on my '64. They've got floor mount and 2 different under dash setups that wouldn't need that pesky plastic wheel on the firewall/floor board area.
Also, you might be able to tweak the header while it's installed with a ratchet strap or a come-along. It would depend how much you need for clearance....
I know it might be/would be ugly, but a heat sheild might do the trick for your master cyl. An 1/8" aluminum sheild that could be polished and backed with heat wrap comes to mind.
The Lokar idea is a good one, but it won't work. I called them already and their products are teflon lined and will melt since even w/ their cable it's going to be about 1/4" from the primary tube. So, I'm not too keen on buying a $130 cable to have it melt the first day I drive the car. So I still have no way to use these headers and have an e-brake so far.
The heat shield for the master was what I was going to do too, but I have no reason to fab one up since I can't use my e-brake still so it's pointless right now.
As far as bending the collector down, yes you're right but I need these other issues worked out first before I do and do that.
I also picked up another set of inner fenders so when everything is worked out, assuming it happens I can cut them and then send them to my powder coater so I can put the front clip together.
The tough part is I can't finish anything else right now on the car other then setting up the cooling system until I have an exhuast system in place. So basically it's been 4 months of inactivity on the car, and now I'm crazy busy at work when before I had a month off but couldn't do anything.
#62
That sucks... why did you switch from the S&P motor mounts? I was planning to go with the S&P mounts and crossmember for a lq4/4l60e combo. Heard its a lot easier than going with an LS1 setup since all the accessory drives are higher up, and the cylinder walls are thicker, hence it will hold more boost for a turbo setup in the future.
#63
So I talked with BRP and they're trying to talk to Husler who made the headers to see what the deal is, hopefully they figure it out quick. I'm about to ditch their headers and mounts and just go another route and weld my floorboards back up. I've been waiting for these units since I paid for them and ordered them in September, and now I'm in the same spot I was back then with little to no progress.
The Lokar idea is a good one, but it won't work. I called them already and their products are teflon lined and will melt since even w/ their cable it's going to be about 1/4" from the primary tube. So, I'm not too keen on buying a $130 cable to have it melt the first day I drive the car. So I still have no way to use these headers and have an e-brake so far.
The heat shield for the master was what I was going to do too, but I have no reason to fab one up since I can't use my e-brake still so it's pointless right now.
As far as bending the collector down, yes you're right but I need these other issues worked out first before I do and do that.
I also picked up another set of inner fenders so when everything is worked out, assuming it happens I can cut them and then send them to my powder coater so I can put the front clip together.
The tough part is I can't finish anything else right now on the car other then setting up the cooling system until I have an exhuast system in place. So basically it's been 4 months of inactivity on the car, and now I'm crazy busy at work when before I had a month off but couldn't do anything.
The Lokar idea is a good one, but it won't work. I called them already and their products are teflon lined and will melt since even w/ their cable it's going to be about 1/4" from the primary tube. So, I'm not too keen on buying a $130 cable to have it melt the first day I drive the car. So I still have no way to use these headers and have an e-brake so far.
The heat shield for the master was what I was going to do too, but I have no reason to fab one up since I can't use my e-brake still so it's pointless right now.
As far as bending the collector down, yes you're right but I need these other issues worked out first before I do and do that.
I also picked up another set of inner fenders so when everything is worked out, assuming it happens I can cut them and then send them to my powder coater so I can put the front clip together.
The tough part is I can't finish anything else right now on the car other then setting up the cooling system until I have an exhuast system in place. So basically it's been 4 months of inactivity on the car, and now I'm crazy busy at work when before I had a month off but couldn't do anything.
I'm not sure what the safe heat range is for the telon lines are, but I've had really good luck with assorted heat wraps on other projects that had some seriously tight engine compartments and shoe horning a turbo in there to boot. So lots of electical was prone to melting without it. If you aren't put off by maybe putting a small section of header wrap on the collector alone, and a heat sleeve (or even doubling or tripling up where needed) on the e-brake cable, I would put money on it being perfectly ok.
But, why run the lokar setup the same routing as the factory chose? I would bet you could run it through the interior even and pop it out by the back seat through the floor pan or near where the gas tank is.
Keep us posted on your progress.
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Teflon has a temperature range of -100F to 300F+ or wider depending upon compound. Standard PTFE, which is probably what Lokar is using, has an operating temperature of 400F+.
Seems like whomever designed the headers didn't do their homework if it interferes with the e-brake; it's the same on both manual and auto cars, but may differ between the years ('58-64) even though the chassis is essentially the same.
You might consider using a master cylinder with a remote reservoir for the clutch, and mount the master cylinder behind the firewall.
It's a bit tough to tell from the photo angles, but I bet the inner fender panels will need to be modified to clear the forward primaries on each side, too.
Seems like whomever designed the headers didn't do their homework if it interferes with the e-brake; it's the same on both manual and auto cars, but may differ between the years ('58-64) even though the chassis is essentially the same.
You might consider using a master cylinder with a remote reservoir for the clutch, and mount the master cylinder behind the firewall.
It's a bit tough to tell from the photo angles, but I bet the inner fender panels will need to be modified to clear the forward primaries on each side, too.
#67
hello im new to this site..but i have a project ive been working on its a 63 2d impala that i put an lt1 motor in ..im wondering about the gas pedal , since it has the lever and doesnt work right with the lt1.. i got the lt1 out of a 94 impala. so what should i do any advice?.. thanks,
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Sorry for the delay in updating this thing everyone... While doing the Impala I just built myself a 98 Trans Am that I found in a field for a nice DD (some early pics before it'll be totally done - https://ls1tech.com/forums/appearanc...easer-pic.html )
So the 62'....
Sent the headers back and got the mid-lengths they make. They seem to fit, but I haven't totally buttoned everything down yet.
I went back to the S&P mounts since we liked how the engine set w/ them better. So we're using the S&P mounts, and BRP mid-lengths, I had to pull the motor and go to an F-Body pan so everything fits correctly w/ the cross-member. I'm hoping to drop it all back in and have update pictures for everyone sometime this week. I Got all the brake lines bled and finished up so that rocks, going to figure out what I'm going to do with the drive shaft, and take it from there.
63impala94- Lokar makes cables that should work for you, I'd check them out! Good luck!
So the 62'....
Sent the headers back and got the mid-lengths they make. They seem to fit, but I haven't totally buttoned everything down yet.
I went back to the S&P mounts since we liked how the engine set w/ them better. So we're using the S&P mounts, and BRP mid-lengths, I had to pull the motor and go to an F-Body pan so everything fits correctly w/ the cross-member. I'm hoping to drop it all back in and have update pictures for everyone sometime this week. I Got all the brake lines bled and finished up so that rocks, going to figure out what I'm going to do with the drive shaft, and take it from there.
63impala94- Lokar makes cables that should work for you, I'd check them out! Good luck!
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Okay so the new BRP Hustler mid-length Headers are on, got the S&P Mounts back on with an F-Body pan. Here are the pics of everything so far... Going to try to get going on everything again and get more progress on this thing!
#71
Looking good!!!! I like those headers alot more than the long tube ones. Keep up the good work.
When u have time, check out my thread.
https://ls1tech.com/forums/conversio...62-impala.html
When u have time, check out my thread.
https://ls1tech.com/forums/conversio...62-impala.html
#73
Working on same type of project yours looks great. The hedders you are using are from BRP but are they Hedman Hedders and if so did they come with a part number for hedman on the box or paperwork anywhere? The information would be greatly appreciated. Thanks.
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Thanks, yes they're from BRP and made by Hedman. I don't have the box anymore or anything you'll have to go through BRP.
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Thanks guys! The wheels are Vintage Wheel works v45's 17x9.5, I'll get some pics of the car with the new lowering springs in and all 4 wheels/tires mounted up now!
#78
love the car. i have a 61 conv. im looking to do the same thing. im in the bay area and would like to stop by or chat with you about the project. can you send me your contact info. thanks
#79
S&P stuff
Did you use the standard motor plates or the ones that move the engine 1" farther back? It also looks like you used the slave cylinder mounting bracket. Is the slave cylinder interfering with the headers?
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I'm using the standard adapter plates for the car. The clutch master bracket is okay, but I had to ditch the last set of headers too... They were hitting the frame... So 3 sets of headers later and months lost I'm running manifolds for now. Will try to get pics soon.