i don't know exactly how the wiring is ran...and my alternator has been making a wierd noise, i'ma change it this weekends and ill see how it goes..

 

If it is not charging properly that could be part of your problem.

 

u have to use a resistor from your alt to hook to your cars old electric system, did u do that, that maybe your problem.
http://painlesswiring.carshopinc.com...id/95742/30705

and here is a link to a thread discussing it
https://ls1tech.com/forums/conversions-swaps/889581-take-look-alternator.html

 

ballast resistor was only used on points ignition systems. It was between the coil and battery. It did not affect any other circuits. Beside, his Cutlass used the HEI distributor from the factory so it did not use a ballast resistor.


onequikss made a good point. If you don't have a good ground or large enough gauge wire to power the pump, that could be an issue.

 

Never mind, that is something different. Sorry

 

hmm i think i have like a wierd plug with white cables...

i'ma have to check that also...

 

its really not the plug but a resistor in the wiring to keep from burning up your alternator

 

yeah i understand, i doubt there is a resistor..
if not, ill have to go to radio shack tonight...

how much of a difference will that make?

 

well when I was researching this swap I found that info so i went ahead and bought that kit, didnt wanna burn out the Alt and have to go hunt for another one, cause this damn alts from GM are expensive brand new! So CYA yourself in that area and then work back to front, start with the easiest problem 1st like the fuel pressure and go from there.

 

thanks for all this advice and info...

 

How is your fuel picked up form the tank? Sump or stock intank pickup?

If you are running your stock intank pickup your problem is probalby that right there, the factory one is small, non baffled and who knows how much junk is in that sock. When the car is part throttle the fuel pump is able to keep head pressure on the needle and seat because there is little demand. When you go WOT the needles and seats open up alowing much more fuel into the bowls to replace the fuel being used. If your in tank pickup 1) has no fuel to pick up because its all slamed against the back of the tank 2) is small and will not allow the pump to draw enough fuel out or 3) the sock is so dirty and obstructing fuel flow, you will have a pressue drop off as you mentioned. I had this same problem in my car before the LS swap, the wimpy 5/16" fuel pick up in the tank was the culprit.

If you have a sump disregard

 

aluminum fuel tank with sump..

 

I thought I could be onto something there for a few minutes

 

my pump INLET is higher than my sump...i heard that was a bad thing also...what you guys think?? lower the fuel pump?

 

well...i donno but i managed to get my fuel pressure at 6.5 psi idle and i think that the hieght of my fuel pump is a problem...i'm going to attempt to lower it tomorrow..

anyone think this is a good idea?

also when i openned the ignition my fuel pressure was at 3 but and it stayed at 3 when i started the car...i'm scared it might be the gauge...even tho its brand new liquid filled...i feel like its not reading properly at times...

the alternator has no resistor...just that plug..

 

Fuel pump should be lower than the outlet on the sump, also it doesn't hurt to run one size of larger hose on the sump to pump length. So for instance you have 3/8" or -06 line, to be optimal you should run -08 to the pump.

 

will do today...see how that goes..

 

I didnt read the whole thread so someone might have already said this but,
Have you set the floats in the carb? They are easy to do.
If your getting enough fuel to the carb then I would think that its the floats.

Be patient(sp?) the carbs are very easy to work with and very easy to tune. Im going with a carb because I know nothing about computers and I taking my car to someone else to tune it for me. Thats half the fun of building a car.