A Body Motor Mounts and Gen Ques.
A Body Motor Mounts and Gen Ques. Hey guys new to the forum. I am looking to swap an LS1 out of a 98 TA into my 71 chevelle.
I have read some of the threads on this swap (I particularly like Stealth71’s) but I still have some questions.
1. The 98 LS1 is usually listed by itself I was told this is due to the single bar map sensor so it has a slightly different harness. Is this true and are there any other differences?
2. I plan on using the factory engine harness; there any mods I need to do to the harness to make it work?
3. Does anyone know if you can get the BRP motor mounts separate from the whole conversion kit?
Thank you any help will be much appreciated
I have read some of the threads on this swap (I particularly like Stealth71’s) but I still have some questions.
1. The 98 LS1 is usually listed by itself I was told this is due to the single bar map sensor so it has a slightly different harness. Is this true and are there any other differences?
2. I plan on using the factory engine harness; there any mods I need to do to the harness to make it work?
3. Does anyone know if you can get the BRP motor mounts separate from the whole conversion kit?
Thank you any help will be much appreciated
The PCM is also different, and a little bit of a problem to program at times, there are some other differences... someone who is knowledgable on the 98 stuff will ping in on the answers..(ECT, crank, cam sensors in different locations ?)
You can find a template of the early BRP (and S&P) plates and make your own, I used the template andsome 1/4" steel plate to make my own. it is not hard. You should talk to Phill at BRP to get as price on his new kits and parts..
If you get the GM LS1 conversion Guide, it will out line everything you need to know on the 98 engine/wiring and harness, as it was writen for the 98 engine and setup.
but like most of the other harness, you can make it a standalone harness but just adding the B+, ign 12+, ground and Fan wires to the connector.
my swap is in my sig..
You can find a template of the early BRP (and S&P) plates and make your own, I used the template andsome 1/4" steel plate to make my own. it is not hard. You should talk to Phill at BRP to get as price on his new kits and parts..
If you get the GM LS1 conversion Guide, it will out line everything you need to know on the 98 engine/wiring and harness, as it was writen for the 98 engine and setup.
but like most of the other harness, you can make it a standalone harness but just adding the B+, ign 12+, ground and Fan wires to the connector.
my swap is in my sig..
98 pcm uses different operating system than 99+, not necassarily bad just not as good...all sensors are the same except for the ECT sensor which is 3 pin for 98, 2 pin for 99+...98 harness can be re-pinned for the 99+ style PCM's...
Thanks you guys have been a lot of help already. I can’t wait to get started with the swap. I was told that the 98s have a lower power rating, is this due to programming or are there mechanical reasons too?
brp does sell the mounts separately, but they advise to buy the whole kit to make sure you have the angle of the dangle correct.
I just bought their kit and it looks pretty good but I haven't started swapping yet. I am wondering about the e-brake line connection on the crossmember though as I see no provisions for it on their kit
I just bought their kit and it looks pretty good but I haven't started swapping yet. I am wondering about the e-brake line connection on the crossmember though as I see no provisions for it on their kit
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I have a few plate options for ya.....
http://carshop.carshopinc.com/produc...457/C/S%202370
http://carshop.carshopinc.com/produc.../86959/C/S2349
Next comes the pan, Some suggest using the lh8 pan and that's a great option but does come with a few negatives........
With my engine mounts I like to put the engine in as close to stock as possible keeping the driveline angles "stock". In this picture you will see that the LH8 pan fits, but with my mounts rubs on the top of the crossmember, this could easily be remedied by shimming the engine up about a quarter of a inch
However it clears nice, but hangs to low for my taste.... I like to lower my cars and do not like the idea of killing my car on a modest bump or pothole.
But I do like this pan, it is manufactured by champ and is the same as the ats pan...
http://carshop.carshopinc.com/produc...457/C/S%202370
http://carshop.carshopinc.com/produc.../86959/C/S2349
Next comes the pan, Some suggest using the lh8 pan and that's a great option but does come with a few negatives........
With my engine mounts I like to put the engine in as close to stock as possible keeping the driveline angles "stock". In this picture you will see that the LH8 pan fits, but with my mounts rubs on the top of the crossmember, this could easily be remedied by shimming the engine up about a quarter of a inch
However it clears nice, but hangs to low for my taste.... I like to lower my cars and do not like the idea of killing my car on a modest bump or pothole.
But I do like this pan, it is manufactured by champ and is the same as the ats pan...
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Thanks for the input phil it looks like you have a great kit... I do have first hand experience with the conversion and our plates and they work perfect as well, while maintaining gm spec driveline angles. The champ pan uses a screw on filter assembly and is a nice unit as for block integrity I have put thousands of miles on this conversion.... So it looks like we both Have built these conversions on real cars.....
Looks like you guys have lots of great options if I can help in anyway give me a call!
Looks like you guys have lots of great options if I can help in anyway give me a call!
It’s great to see more options for the enthusiast and I was glad to see you guys at the LSX shootout this year. All I was saying is there is a difference in kit design and it can be seen in the placement of the LH8 from the two photos shown. There is a lot more hang with the LH8 when using a plate set up over a BRP frame mount. That champ pan is the first aftermarket pan that I have seen to use a screw on filter and that’s a killer option! How much are these pans? Can you post a pic up of the screw on filter set up? What I meant about block rigidity is the flange size on the pan, compare the champ pan or almost any aftermarket pan to the flange on a GM pan and you can see the difference. Anyway both are great kits that work and that 4door S10 is a slick sleeper.
Last edited by BRPhotrods; Oct 28, 2008 at 12:28 PM.
Let me snap some pan pics for ya..... I do understand wanting to use the gm pans when ever possible, alot of time and engineering has gone into these units from gm. It also couldnt be more true that every application is different and requires a different approach, For instance our blazer uses the LH8 pan and works great... But the two wheel drive blazer jimmy truck has raised pads and makes engine position so much higher....
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Look at the leathal notch I did in my s-10 to retain the factory F body pan! Scary Huh!
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[/IMG]Look at the leathal notch I did in my s-10 to retain the factory F body pan! Scary Huh!
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[/IMG] I would like to see a pic of the filter setup too. Got any? I think that would be a real option for the swap, it looks like it would give me a ton of room especially if i use the BRP mounts. Hey Phil thanks for emailing me those prices, I am not going to need the headers cause I am going to go with a turbo and build my own exhaust and for the crossmember I am going to biuld a custom box piece that I think will looks really nice. I can send you a pic of it when i am done if you would like.
Thanks again everyone has been a ton of help.
Thanks again everyone has been a ton of help.
