Carshop Inc motor plates
12-09-2008, 03:37 PM
#1
Carshop Inc motor plates Working on the 67 bird, and bought carshop's standard ls1 style adapter plates (also still not sure . Obviously, since it had a pontiac 455, the mounts themselves won't work. I'm curious now, are the plates connected to the k-member that the mount attaches to the same between camaro/pontiac SBC/BBC? I need an exact part # to get the correct mounts that will attach to these plates, and be polyurethane. Can someone help a brother out? Thanks fellas.
Tony
Tony
12-09-2008, 05:10 PM
#3
I used camaro/nova 327 frame stands. The pontiac ones will not work and they dont make an adapter for them. They are a pain in the *** to replace the pontiac mounts. It's easiesiest if the front end is jacked up if i remember right to be able to keep the suspension dangling. It's easiest if you have a helper too. I dont know what the exact style of my mounts is but here is a pic of it. I got them from Ebay new. They are a reproduction part. They were like $40. I am running ATS plates, engery suspension poly sbc mounts, and Hooker headers. I dimpled the one primary to clear the pitman are more although it wasnt neccesssary.
12-09-2008, 05:47 PM
#4
Alright, cool man, appreciate it. My engine bay is bare, haven't done the conversion yet, which is why I'm making damn sure I get the right thing before I try and bolt it all up! =) I'll remove the pontiac BS, and get some different frame stands. Appreciate the advice man. I'm running 6.0 manifolds flipped to an S480 T6 turbo up front, so I've got an email in to carshopinc to see if I should be running the 2" setback style adapter plates or the std ones (like the ones I have). Thanks again!
12-09-2008, 05:51 PM
#5
Nice! With my ATS plates when i lowered my engine in with the stock LS1 manifolds on i know that the manifold just barely hit my steering box. I had to pull the engine back out and restrap the thing since i had the strap around the manifolds. I would ask for whichever plates arent the ATS plates. I think the 2" setback are the hooker style mounts which would push the engine further up against the firewall and give you a little more clearence of the steering box.
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12-09-2008, 06:59 PM
#8
I already have an email sent their way asking about it. I don't want the back of the engine rattling up against the firewall, my 455 sat back really far, and I had issues with the edelbrock heads and valve covers being so tall that I had nightmares and had to run without a windshield wiper motor lol. Rain X was my friend! =)
12-09-2008, 07:09 PM
#9
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stands read this link before you get your mounts... i dong a 67 camaro swap and using an lh8 pan with carshop inc plates and this helped me wih some clearance issues...
http://pozziracing.com/camaro_engine.htm
http://pozziracing.com/camaro_engine.htm
12-09-2008, 07:20 PM
#10
Yup those are the exact ones i bought from the exact same seller haha. I bought alot of stuff from that seller they ship extremely fast. No windsheild wipers? Man my car actually has windsheild squirters. im trying to remove all of these unnecessary things. Here's a huge tip. Install all of the nuts where you can thread them on from up top. Buy two extra sockets. I still have two sockets inside of my frame. For some reason when i tightened them down i couldnt get the socket back out. Also biggest tip, DO NOT tighten them down. There is alot of play in the holes which means you will not tighten them up where they should be and you will have to loose them all back up anyway to get the engine in.
12-10-2008, 01:44 PM
#12
I think that they will clear honestly. My issue was that the center of one of the manifold primaries hit my steering box.
Here are some pics with hooker headers installed. I actually held my stock manifold upside down on the passenger side to see what it would look like. I was toying with the idea of a turb setup before i bought my headers. I never tried the driver side though.
Just let me know if there are any mesurements or more pictures i can take for you. Mines a 68 so they should be damn near identical
Here are some pics with hooker headers installed. I actually held my stock manifold upside down on the passenger side to see what it would look like. I was toying with the idea of a turb setup before i bought my headers. I never tried the driver side though.
Just let me know if there are any mesurements or more pictures i can take for you. Mines a 68 so they should be damn near identical
12-10-2008, 02:32 PM
#13
Shoot, that's great man, you don't know how much I appreciate that! Just need to get the pan issue taken care of, I have a couple pans, a truck pan, and one off of my old 99 TA I had, may just get the LH8 pan and not oakie rig it. It's not a show car, don't want it to be, but I don't want it taped together either, ya know? Your 68 is pimp as heck dude, that's a cool *** project. Those hookers look sick as hell on that thing. Seeing that last picture makes me feel better, not so worried about the PS now, that manifold aught to fit just above it! How solid do those "low performance" sbc frame mounts look/feel? I've never seen one in real life, just my pontiacs, and they're huge. I don't want it to be a cheap piece of crap and break.
12-10-2008, 02:45 PM
#14
'bird - I will buy that TA oil pan off you if you go the LH8 route. I've got a '71 Nova waiting on an LQ4 right now. Oh, and you can design your own motor mount plates if either of those don't work for you (i.e., the setbacks are too far back, the ATS styles are too high/fwd, etc.). They're pretty cheap and easy to do - I had a machine-shop friend do mine, and it wouldn't take much thought to have a set fabbed up.
12-10-2008, 02:49 PM
#15
'bird - I will buy that TA oil pan off you if you go the LH8 route. I've got a '71 Nova waiting on an LQ4 right now. Oh, and you can design your own motor mount plates if either of those don't work for you (i.e., the setbacks are too far back, the ATS styles are too high/fwd, etc.). They're pretty cheap and easy to do - I had a machine-shop friend do mine, and it wouldn't take much thought to have a set fabbed up.
12-10-2008, 03:55 PM
#16
Thanks man. Mines not the least bit of a show car. I sawzalled the entire wheel well out and made a wheel well of my own plus welded in a crossmmeber for the rear frame rail to mount the shocks inward to the traction bars, made a customer crossmember for the transmission that mounts to the front frame rail and sfcs, and to top it off cut a hole in the hood for a shotgun street scoop which looks awesome with the headlights. Yeah i didnt even run power steering but i removeved a power steering box from my car and looking at it dont see it really taking up any more space than the manual box. The lines wouldnt interferce with clearence.
The frame stands are plenty strong enough to hold. There is a bolt 'sleeve' that runs inside of them to make sure you line the hole up on the other side when mounting it. I broke mine free sledge hammering a bolt through (because i didnt want to have to loose the frame stands haha).
I forgot i had to open the SBC frame mounts about a 1/4" on each side to slide over the mounts. The energy suspension mounts were just barely too small slip over then but they bent enough. since you're running a turbo i would reccomend the Moroso pan since it runs a remote mount filter and would make it easier to run your oil lines. Unless you dont mind drilling and tapping the block. The fittings on the moroso pan are -10an. I reduced them to 1/2" npt so i could run my autometer sender and the remote mount kit i already had. pan was $225, oil pick up was $89. I ran an LPE (lingefelter) high volume pump with the high pressure spring. I see 75psi hot idle with 5w30 mobile 1, and 100psi above 2500rpm.
I havent been able to really test the strength of the frame stands as the 26" slicks i had wouldnt hook in 2nd gear because of the 4.56s. I'm waiting on some 30" ET street radials. The energy suspension SBC mounts have a backing plate to sandwich the polyurethane materal. You wont need this you just mount it directly to the plate. I'm not sure about the carshop plates but i had an indent in my plate for the bump on the polyurethane.
The frame stands are plenty strong enough to hold. There is a bolt 'sleeve' that runs inside of them to make sure you line the hole up on the other side when mounting it. I broke mine free sledge hammering a bolt through (because i didnt want to have to loose the frame stands haha).
I forgot i had to open the SBC frame mounts about a 1/4" on each side to slide over the mounts. The energy suspension mounts were just barely too small slip over then but they bent enough. since you're running a turbo i would reccomend the Moroso pan since it runs a remote mount filter and would make it easier to run your oil lines. Unless you dont mind drilling and tapping the block. The fittings on the moroso pan are -10an. I reduced them to 1/2" npt so i could run my autometer sender and the remote mount kit i already had. pan was $225, oil pick up was $89. I ran an LPE (lingefelter) high volume pump with the high pressure spring. I see 75psi hot idle with 5w30 mobile 1, and 100psi above 2500rpm.
I havent been able to really test the strength of the frame stands as the 26" slicks i had wouldnt hook in 2nd gear because of the 4.56s. I'm waiting on some 30" ET street radials. The energy suspension SBC mounts have a backing plate to sandwich the polyurethane materal. You wont need this you just mount it directly to the plate. I'm not sure about the carshop plates but i had an indent in my plate for the bump on the polyurethane.
12-10-2008, 10:12 PM
#17
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I suggest the 1 inch setback plates, they are very simillar to the "hooker style" mounts that are specific for that conversion. You will have to change the lower mounts from the pontiac style to units from a camaro or sbc application.... The one inch units do not have any problems with firewall clearance.